Fear of close out

[BaNZ]

After moving from a 9" to 7"6, I'm unable to catch waves earlier and have to catch it when it's a steep drop frightens me when I'm not sure if it will close out completely. The waves today were really heavy, fast and dumps into the beach. Waves were only around 4 feet but when it is heavy, it is scary. There were many other inexperienced surfers that just go for every wave that they see. Every time a big sets comes in, I see at least 5-6 boards flying up in the sky.

The thing is I get so scared of it closes out so after 2 hour session today, I only caught 4 waves. They were all very good but I know I can catch more if I was brave enough to gamble on it. But the fear of not knowing whether it's a closeout stops me from catching more waves. I'm quite frustrated because I see the inexperienced ones just keeps going for every single wave and although they took more beating, overall they caught more waves.

Should I just go for every wave like the other surfers? I'm renting boards at the moment so I can take bigger risk. I think there's two incident when I started learning that is hindering my progress and making me choose waves too carefully. First one was when I nose dive and got hit by my own fin and second was another nose dive that snapped my board in half.

[Big H]

Sack up and make a goal for a sesh to tuck into 10 closeouts....you'll lose the fear after you find out you dont break so easily.

[BaNZ]

Sack up and make a goal for a sesh to tuck into 10 closeouts....you'll lose the fear after you find out you dont break so easily.

It would be okay if there wasn't that many people going for the closeout. But you get everyone paddling for it then I'm kinda worried that I'll get hit by someone else and vice versa.

[oldmansurfer]

If you feel the waves are all likely going to close out then you could try position yourself more to the shoulder which would be closer to the end of the closeout. Then once you get used to that work your way back deeper into the lineup. Alternatively watch the waves and figure out which shapes are closing out and which aren't

[BaNZ]

I do try and position myself closer to the shoulder and that was all the waves I caught in 2 hours. I have myopia and I don't wear contacts so sometimes I can't make a good judgement. There is one left point break but I'm regular so I don't go there. I go to the other side where it breaks in different position each time so it is hard to go sit at the shoulder. Albeit I should train my fitness up again and go hunt the waves rather than wait for it to come to me.

[waikikikichan]

Was anyone making it ? If not, then it is what it is, unrideable closeouts. Some waves are just not meant to be ridden. ( that's where sponge boards come in ! ) Is there a Costco nearby ?

[BoMan]

I should train my fitness up again and go hunt the waves rather than wait for it to come to me.

The same happens to me. I take a swim class at the local college to stay paddle fit and during the semester gaps it's HARD to hunt spot X, catch faster waves and get to the lineup. It even affects my popup which gets wobbly.

Whoever said surfing is 90% paddling knows what they are talking about!

[oldmansurfer]

There is a solution just don't give up. When you find it let us know then we will know what to say to someone who asks this in the future

[icetime]

Go for the closeout, nothing bad will happen, can't say the same if it's a reef break, if it's a shallow reef, don't risk it, if it's a sandy beach break, go have fun, pull into closeouts, also about the steep takeoffs that spook you, try angling your board so you go down the face (Some call it knifing the face, set your rail and go towards the trough )instead of dropping off the face

[RinkyDink]

Just keep surfing waves you feel comfortable riding until you feel like you're ready to step up. Don't worry about wave count; you're not in a competition. Focus on making the waves you take off on meaningful. Don't take off on waves unless you feel like you're in the right spot at the right time.. I'm a lot more confident in surf now, then I was when I started. I crunched my knee during a bad takeoff in my first months of surfing because I ignored my gut feeling. That injury has never quite healed. You'll gain experience over time. You'll have ups and downs during your different surf sessions. Some days you'll feel confident and on others a bit hesitant. Adjust your wave selection accordingly. Pretty soon waves that used to strike fear in you will appeal to you instead because you've worked up to surfing them.

[Surf Hound]

Your fear in your head is probably 10 times worse than actually going for these close outs. You mentioned other newbies were all going for it which means there is not much of a consequence. Pull into one and see what happens. If you don't like the experience then at least you know what you are scared of but more likely you will realize it's not so bad. Fear is the not knowing - once you pull in you will know thus not scared anymore. BEST part of close outs is sometimes they open up and you make it which has been the cases for some of my all time best waves. In short, nut up and give it a try.....

[oldmansurfer]

Fear is a difficult thing to overcome. Some of us are adrenaline junkies and fear just makes us perform better but for others it may mean failing every time due to freezing up like a deer in the headlights. Small steps are what you need to stay safe. Just push your limits a little and if you keep at it your limits will keep expanding.

[Tudeo]

I felt fear first times going out in bigger conditions, to the point I doubted to go. First time I just sat there, outside in a safeposition, and watched. Later I paddled for a wave and wiped out, then I felt it wasn't too bad. I'm very glad I pushed myself to go because now I feel comfortable in those conditions. I even had an incredible good takeoff experience in a big closeout,that ended in a wipeout.

Just push your limits a little and if you keep at it your limits will keep expanding.

That's it.

[BaNZ]

Okay I went out again yesterday taking all in all the advices from here. But I didn't really need to because I wuss out and rented a 8". The 8" made paddling so much easier compare to a 7'6. I can't believe the difference, it allowed me to catch waves ~7 meters before it starts breaking. Because of this I was able to go to the spot that doesn't close out completely but is very crowded.

Due to surfing this crowded spot. I got dropped in almost every time by 3-4 guys even though I was taking off at the peak. On my last wave, I took a surfboard on my kidney. A guy dropped in front of me and so I couldn't go faster so I'm guessing I also dropped on some guy hence why I got hit by their board. I was riding the white wash to the shore and a board hit me from behind. But when I took off, I looked both sides and only saw the guy that dropped in on me so not entirely sure where the other guy came from.

Will upload some videos later, waves at Rockaway was really good. Must better than I expected.

I still have yet to make a decision on whether a 7'6 or a 8 for this break. I'm hoping once I post the video, you guys can provide me with some sound advice.

[pmcaero]

I feel you brah. I see these waves where a shortboarder makes a steep drop and right away is riding down the line and doing maneuvers as the wave is closing out, then pushing off the lip, but that's just not me yet or maybe never will be.If it looks to gnarly I pull back.

I haven't tested this theory yet in anything over 3ft, but I hope to train myself to be braver with my beater. It greatly diminishes the risk of body and property damage since it's a soft top, and it's made for close-outs. Really hard to pearl it. Then again, if your paddling is not up to par, you won't catch anything on the beater.

Another option is to get a board with a sharp nose, lots of rocker, and lots of volume. Basically a scaled-up shortboard. You will be able to get in earlier and also make steep drops. Not sure what 7'6" you are riding, but unless it's shaped like a shortboard it's probably the worst board to take out in these conditions. Longboarders will get in earlier, and shortboarders will make steeper drops.

[icetime]

I feel you brah. I see these waves where a shortboarder makes a steep drop and right away is riding down the line and doing maneuvers as the wave is closing out, then pushing off the lip, but that's just not me yet or maybe never will be.If it looks to gnarly I pull back.

I haven't tested this theory yet in anything over 3ft, but I hope to train myself to be braver with my beater. It greatly diminishes the risk of body and property damage since it's a soft top, and it's made for close-outs. Really hard to pearl it. Then again, if your paddling is not up to par, you won't catch anything on the beater.

Another option is to get a board with a sharp nose, lots of rocker, and lots of volume. Basically a scaled-up shortboard. You will be able to get in earlier and also make steep drops. Not sure what 7'6" you are riding, but unless it's shaped like a shortboard it's probably the worst board to take out in these conditions. Longboarders will get in earlier, and shortboarders will make steeper drops.

My 6'6 does exactly what you describe it's right between both so I can get early to not have to deal with the steep drop but after it gets over 6ft I have to angle my takeoff or else I basically fall off my board during the drop, once it gets over that size I can't even catch the waves on my board anymore either I take out an 8ft foamie or don't even go out when it's too gnarly

About the 3-4 people dropping in on you, have you tried surfing another peak, maybe even surf backside at another part of the wave so you can enjoy it a bit longer than having people drop in on you, I have an advantage and that is that I'm goofy footed so I go to the lineup with 30 people out, 28 of them of regular & are riding the right and I get free lefts all day

[BaNZ]

About the 3-4 people dropping in on you, have you tried surfing another peak, maybe even surf backside at another part of the wave so you can enjoy it a bit longer than having people drop in on you, I have an advantage and that is that I'm goofy footed so I go to the lineup with 30 people out, 28 of them of regular & are riding the right and I get free lefts all day

Nearly all the breaks there are left hander. There is some right hander but it is short and closes out very quickly.

I'm regular foot so surfing left hander is much harder for me. I've spent hours observing the 3 spots, there is one that breaks nicely for regular foot. But the problem with that is it tends to have big sets that comes in and throws you onto the beach. I'm also not good with turtle roll so it is too risky for me. Have to get much better before I attempt the spot.

Wait till it's autumn/winter, I'm sure the number of new york surfers will dwindle down.

[pmcaero]

I'm regular foot so surfing left hander is much harder for me.

I must be the weird regular-footed guy, because I prefer left-handers on my bigger board. Especially for steeper waves. I find it easier to set up my take-off backside and then stay low and ride it. Can't explain it properly, but I manage to set a line right before I pop-up and then I don't move much if the wave is big, just stay crouched low over the board and do small trimming turns to stay in the pocket. It's quite relaxing to be honest

[oldmansurfer]

I would suggest you learn to go backside. It will only help in the long run and learn to do turns backside. You may find it easier than frontside because you automatically torque your body in order to look at the wave which makes yo in position to make a good bottom turn to an off the lip or high top turn or cutback

[pmcaero]

You may find it easier than frontside because you automatically torque your body in order to look at the wave which makes yo in position to make a good bottom turn to an off the lip or high top turn or cutback

I think you managed to explain quite well what I have been trying to say