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Learning to surf

PostPosted: Thu Sep 22, 2016 6:33 am
by oldmansurfer
Ok so I guess I am not the most knowledgeable guy since for me it was too easy but here are some thoughts of mine about learning to surf.
1) Learn about the ocean waves, currents, bottom contours, tides. This is the medium for the sport of surfing. Ultimately how good you get and how safe you are depends on your knowledge of the ocean (and yourself).

2) Know how to swim fairly well. If not then start by taking swimming lessons or practice swimming till you are good then go practice in the ocean but remember number one learn about the ocean and learn to swim in the ocean.

3) Safety first. Take it easy and don't push yourself past your limits. If you are in doubt then don't go out. If you are tired go in. Be sensible. Initially take lessons or surf with friends who can help you and make sure you go where there are lifeguards until you learn how to save yourself.

4) Surf as much as you can without causing physical problems that limit your surfing. Surf your okole off but don't surf so much that you are injured. Train up to longer and more frequent sessions if you have the time. Many surfers go through a time where they have rubber arms, when they paddle their arms feel like rubber bands that they shoot out in front and let them sink into the water. If there is a current then they are in trouble because they can't paddle well enough to deal with it. gradually condition your arms.

5) know your own limits. Learn what conditions you can deal with, what you can go out in and what is pointless for you because you won't catch any waves. This means you have to be able to read the waves and you have to be able to know your limits. However the more conditions that you learn to deal with the more days you can go surf and the quicker you will learn to surf.

6) Till you learn to surf fairly well stay out of crowded surf breaks. You will not catch any waves and you will be in the way of other surfers. If you want to learn to surf you need to be catching waves not sitting on your board waiting for your turn in the lineup.

7) Learn how to make temporary lineups from the shoreline so that you can get into the approximate area that better waves are breaking. Then learn how to pick those waves that you saw from the shoreline and make a lineup from the water for that wave. On most days there will be a variety of different waves coming in and you need to be able to pick out the good ones from the ones that aren't good.

8) Learn how to get out through the surf to the places that have waves that you saw from the shoreline. This can be easy or difficult depending on the break. Learn to read the lineup, where are there surfers or other obstacles that you need to stay away from? Where are the rip currents that can help you get out, where are the waves breaking that will hinder you on your way out? Also figure out what is the best way to get back in. Watching other surfers might be a help but it depends on your skill set. I can watch a bunch of surfers go out at Waimea Bay and see exactly what they do but I very likely can't do that. What they do is not in my skill set.

9) Make it a bit challenging but not so much that you become discouraged. If you start off being frustrated then unless you suddenly get it or you learn to change your approach you will give up. Know yourself and what level of frustration you can put up with and if you are getting there get some help. Get lessons or go with a friend or get a bigger board which will make it easier to catch waves.

10) It is fun to surf and fun to learn so make sure you are having some fun. Just like any endeavor you need to take one step at a time. If you want to climb Mount Everest you don't go and attempt to climb it right away. You need to train and learn about climbing and mountains and your limits first and it won't be fun dying trying to climb your very first time. Learn to take satisfaction in little gains like learning how to popup, how to make a bottom turn, how to make a top turn, how to do a 360 carving turn :)

11) add or make corrections as need since I grew up in the ocean in Hawaii and was riding waves my whole life I may not have the best perspective on this

Re: Learning to surf

PostPosted: Fri Apr 21, 2017 10:57 am
by saltyridersco
Great tips oldmansurfer!

I would also add knowing the basics of surf etiquette such as no dropping in, holding on to your board and no snaking. <edit>

Safety is also a very good point, especially knowing where and when to surf. I think sometimes people forget that surfing can be a dangerous sport and you need to have your wits about you to stay safe.

Good stuff!