Surfing Waves

Start of the China Uemura's Longboard Classic right after the paddle out blessing. First heat of the morning, so still SUP's and Canoes in the line up. Tried to go around but didn't want to risk my new board.

Classic drop wallet cutback at 49 seconds

You almost got paddled!

If I was using my molded-epoxy board, I would've gone for a rail slide off the outrigger ( "Ama" in Hawaiian ). But this board was PU/poly. It was hand shaped by Carl Schaper for Bonga Perkins, he ended up not liking it, so i bought it. My "Magic" board that I only take out for contest now.

What was that right at the end - show boater!

There is a patch of reef right at the end there. Most people pump and do a floater to end the wave. I figured instead, go to the nose, pull a "jack knife" leg kick and try to spin the tail out so the fin doesn't catch the reef. But my rail caught and I pearled.

looks like you "ca-new" to stay clear haha

jaffa1949 wrote:Classic drop wallet cutback at 49 seconds.

So smooth...

I have always been curious why it's better to turn (and cross step) with your hands above the chest rather than out to the sides.

I absolutely love your style of surfing on the other hand I've been dropped in on by 3 people once and they were on foamies

BoMan wrote: why it's better to turn (and cross step) with your hands above the chest rather than out to the sides.

not sure if it's important to have your hands above or to side, but where they are in relation to the shoulder and deck. If your carving left, the left hand should be lower than the right hand.

icetime wrote: I've been dropped in on by 3 people once and they were on foamies

But were all 3 on one board ? Now they have these giant SUP-SQUATCH boards. You drop in with 10 of your friends.

Awesome turns and footwork, wkkkchan!

waikikikichan wrote:

BoMan wrote: why it's better to turn (and cross step) with your hands above the chest rather than out to the sides.

not sure if it's important to have your hands above or to side, but where they are in relation to the shoulder and deck. If your carving left, the left hand should be lower than the right hand.

What about backside carve? I remember reading somewhere that for beginners/intermediates it's too hard to effectively pivot around the leading arm being lower than the trailing arm so it's best to swing the leading arm upward toward the wave face. I can sort of see that when I ride my carver skateboard but is that actually a good habit?

saltydog wrote:it's too hard to effectively pivot around the leading arm being lower than the trailing arm so it's best to swing the leading arm upward toward the wave face.

Good point, the left hand lower than the right elbow is just for the INITIAL turn in, when your left rail engages. After, as you transition to the flat bottom of the board to run up the face, your left leading hand raises up to draw the nose up and out. ( opening the door ) then half way up, the left rips down slamming the door shut, rolling onto the right rail.

Amazing style - I wish I could do that! It's hilarious how many people are out there though, on all forms of surf (and not so surf)-craft!

Looks like you were surfing with a giant as well

He's not all that uncommon size for a Hawaiian. That's why you don't drop in on Or yell at kids when you tourist surf in Hawaii. That kid's dad ( like the one in the photo ) is usually watching him/her from the beach.

I see how that goes! I've witnessed something like that. The dad went ballistic, swearing and all, and his young daughter (the one he was defending) was in total shock. She seemed more traumatized from the dad's reaction than the close-call with the kook

They wrote an article about what happened after someone dropping in on you when you were surfing Velzyland http://www.hawaiinewsnow.com/story/33104378/police-arrest-man-for-attempted-murder-following-altercation-at-velzyland?sf36018363=1 Just tell them you were helping him train breath holding.....(just kidding it's not Waikikichan they are talking about)