Surfing Waves

Source: facebook

Mine would be 20 minutes later, 20 other surfers paddle out.

waikikikichan wrote:Mine would be 20 minutes later, 20 other surfers paddle out.

Since Japanese are so polite and courteous. I'm guessing you guys spend the next 20 minutes saying you go first, no you go first, no no no you go first?

So you probably think people in Hawaii all sit around sipping coconuts under a tree and get around by canoe. Sorry to say, what Japan is famous for be polite and courteous, is mainly in the service, retail industry ( especially the gas stations ). Japan is the land of opposites. High-technology next to samurai castles. I wouldn't say surfers are rude, but they just drove 3 hours from Tokyo at 4am. Paid toll roads about $30 one way ( not to mention the gas and parking stall in Tokyo is $500 a month. Their Al Merrick Channel Islands shortboard costed nearly $1700. ( Longboards are close to $2800.) Their full suit costed $1000+. So they better get some waves. But of those 20, 3 can actually surf. 5 hang out on the each shoulder and crumble the lip right as you bottom turn. Some actually get to their feet and Huntington hop like 30 times. Others are standing waist high in the water and jump onto to there board right in front of you. When they get tired ( which is about an hour ) , they go in and smoke a cigarette before washing off their board and themselves.

If the waves are perfect I am surfing with a bunch of other guys and often I look for a less than perfect break nearby because I don't have time to wait my turn in the lineup. If I take a set on the head it's ok, I just paddle out and go get some waves.

It is so true! Mine would usually be the top one - from a hill it looks like waves are breaking regularly, inviting you in with its siren call. You get out there and its like a like. And then I just lie down on my surfboard and try to get a nice tan going!

waikikikichan wrote:So you probably think people in Hawaii all sit around sipping coconuts under a tree and get around by canoe. Sorry to say, what Japan is famous for be polite and courteous, is mainly in the service, retail industry ( especially the gas stations ). Japan is the land of opposites. High-technology next to samurai castles. I wouldn't say surfers are rude, but they just drove 3 hours from Tokyo at 4am. Paid toll roads about $30 one way ( not to mention the gas and parking stall in Tokyo is $500 a month. Their Al Merrick Channel Islands shortboard costed nearly $1700. ( Longboards are close to $2800.) Their full suit costed $1000+. So they better get some waves. But of those 20, 3 can actually surf. 5 hang out on the each shoulder and crumble the lip right as you bottom turn. Some actually get to their feet and Huntington hop like 30 times. Others are standing waist high in the water and jump onto to there board right in front of you. When they get tired ( which is about an hour ) , they go in and smoke a cigarette before washing off their board and themselves.

My way of getting rid of crowded lineups with foamies is telling them to paddle for a crappy wave just before a bomb rolls in

But then all their bodies and boards will floating in the impact zone, blocking your take off. We like to yell "Back Set", point to the horizon, paddle out like mad, wait for the kooks to pass us, then catch the wave in front. Then they're all stuck way out back, out of position.