your first surboard. how did you feel back then?

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your first surboard. how did you feel back then?

Postby DreamSurf » Sun Sep 04, 2016 10:30 am

I feel like a boss
I feel like im 6 years on a christmas day havin an awesome present
i feel like a shark raizing trough the sea
i feel stoked and keeps me stoked

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do you still have your first? even if its broken
tell me all about it. as for me im so hyped that i might die cause my heart booms like a drim n bass dubstep party
It totally takes my brain and puts it on hold… it just smooths out the static.” – Katrina Del Mar
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Re: your first surboard. how did you feel back then?

Postby Big H » Sun Sep 04, 2016 11:17 am

Cute kids....nice family!
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Re: your first surboard. how did you feel back then?

Postby jaffa1949 » Sun Sep 04, 2016 11:33 am

Go get wet , only thing to do! There is no way back :lol:
I've taken up troll hunting just for fun, instead of a rifle I'll just use a pun! 冲浪爷爷
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Re: your first surboard. how did you feel back then?

Postby DreamSurf » Sun Sep 04, 2016 4:26 pm

jaffa1949 wrote:Go get wet , only thing to do! There is no way back :lol:


lol i better start getting wet. holding a surboard makes you a wannabe. but using it makes you a surfer
toucheeeeeeee :beer:
It totally takes my brain and puts it on hold… it just smooths out the static.” – Katrina Del Mar
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Re: your first surboard. how did you feel back then?

Postby DreamSurf » Sun Sep 04, 2016 4:27 pm

Big H wrote:Cute kids....nice family!


thank you for your compliments. Really appreciated thx man. there is an app on my android called glassy.pro which shows the waves in every country. if i have to believe that app they are 0.7meters. Is that worth a surf according to you?
40km wind. wet suit or rash vest?
It totally takes my brain and puts it on hold… it just smooths out the static.” – Katrina Del Mar
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Re: your first surboard. how did you feel back then?

Postby oldmansurfer » Sun Sep 04, 2016 4:44 pm

My parents bought me a surfboards for my eighteenth birthday. Prior to that they had been worried about my love of the ocean.....I guess worried that I would drown although I had taken every Red Cross Swimming class at least twice and Junior lifesaving and I was one of the fastest swimmers on the swim team. I didn't surf and had expressed to no one interest in surfing so a surfboard was a bit of a miss from my perspective. I was into paipo boarding and just getting into knee boarding on my paipoboards. I thought "Oh Gee Thanks. It will make a nice decoration in my room." I am glad you are obviously more happy about yours.
So what is worse.... dying or regretting it for the rest of my life? Obviously I chose not regretting it.
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Re: your first surboard. how did you feel back then?

Postby DreamSurf » Sun Sep 04, 2016 5:20 pm

oldmansurfer wrote:My parents bought me a surfboards for my eighteenth birthday. Prior to that they had been worried about my love of the ocean.....I guess worried that I would drown although I had taken every Red Cross Swimming class at least twice and Junior lifesaving and I was one of the fastest swimmers on the swim team. I didn't surf and had expressed to no one interest in surfing so a surfboard was a bit of a miss from my perspective. I was into paipo boarding and just getting into knee boarding on my paipoboards. I thought "Oh Gee Thanks. It will make a nice decoration in my room." I am glad you are obviously more happy about yours.


yet you still surfed. the curiosity must have been strong later on.
It totally takes my brain and puts it on hold… it just smooths out the static.” – Katrina Del Mar
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Re: your first surboard. how did you feel back then?

Postby Brian » Sun Sep 04, 2016 5:51 pm

My first board was a 6'6" Webber Fat Burner. My parents bought it, along with my first Longboard (skateboard) for my 13th bday. The thing felt huge, but it was awesome. I had been bodyboarding for a few years and I clearly remember the feeling of terror while paddling out, trying to control my giant board. At the time I remember I weighed in at 38kg lol. I couldn't duck dive it and couldn't ditch it like I had usually done with my sponge and I was so afraid of hitting other people. I had that board until I graduated college and got rid of it while moving stateside. What are the dimensions of your new shorty? Looks like a fun stick!
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Re: your first surboard. how did you feel back then?

Postby oldmansurfer » Sun Sep 04, 2016 7:08 pm

fromsk82surf wrote:
oldmansurfer wrote:My parents bought me a surfboards for my eighteenth birthday. Prior to that they had been worried about my love of the ocean.....I guess worried that I would drown although I had taken every Red Cross Swimming class at least twice and Junior lifesaving and I was one of the fastest swimmers on the swim team. I didn't surf and had expressed to no one interest in surfing so a surfboard was a bit of a miss from my perspective. I was into paipo boarding and just getting into knee boarding on my paipoboards. I thought "Oh Gee Thanks. It will make a nice decoration in my room." I am glad you are obviously more happy about yours.


yet you still surfed. the curiosity must have been strong later on.

The waves were pumping when I got the surfboard so I wasn't going to miss out by trying to learn when there were awesome waves to be had paipo boarding. But after a while the swell died down so I brought my surfboard with me to the beach for a couple days. I tried it and then decided it wasn't worth the hassle of bringing it to the beach and left it in the corner of my room. I had just made a new paipo board which I made a bit bigger so I could kneeboard on it. It took me 2 weeks. First I got the marine plywood then cut out the outline and put weights on the nose to hold it bent while I poured boiling hot water on it to create nose rocker. Then I hand shaped a concave in the nose and one on the deck and a channel to a flatter rear end and made the rails sharp and placed some fiberglass rope handles in the nose and sides. Then I fiberglassed the bottom with a couple layers of 4 ounce glass and resined the whole board to water proof it. One day shortly after my birthday I was riding a wave with about a 14 or 15 foot face and made a bottom turn where I got hit by the lip and it snapped my brand new board in two. I knew it was going to take me two weeks to make another one and I knew from goofing around on my paipo board that there were advantages from standing on a board that made it superior to other forms of surfing. So I asked my friends who I knew that surfed "how do I learn to surf?" They all said "Just surf as often as you can." So I went surfing every day for two weeks. By then I was able to go down the line on waves and make small turns on the unbroken face of the waves (knee to chest high waves) fairly reliably. Then I was hooked :)
So what is worse.... dying or regretting it for the rest of my life? Obviously I chose not regretting it.
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Re: your first surboard. how did you feel back then?

Postby waikikikichan » Sun Sep 04, 2016 9:28 pm

fromsk82surf wrote:do you still have your first? even if its broken


Since you're a former Pro Skateboarder, do YOU still have your first Skate Board ? I remember my first surf board, and I thought I would keep it forever. But after it broke twice, it got thrown away. Not worth keeping it. Needed to make more room for other boards.

Surfboards are just TOOLs. Do you remember your first Hammer ? Your first Screwdriver ? They will get good usuage during their life, then replaced at some point. A good surfer isn't determined by what he rides, but HOW he rides it.

Back in the 80's my friend in Hawaii got a photo in TRASHER magazine. He was kneeling down in front of all his skate boards stacked up behind him. The comment below photo was "SKATE, don't POSE".
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Re: your first surboard. how did you feel back then?

Postby benjl » Sun Sep 04, 2016 10:27 pm

Here is mine- I had a slow wait for it and constant delays from the shaper about when it would be ready. I was stoked to finally pick it up!

Two weeks and two surfs later I snapped my achillies and wouldn't be able to surf for about 8months.

While sitting at home doing nothing, I was looking over the board and noticed cracking and softening in the fibreglass around the pad already (I'm light and asked for extra strong epoxy glassing) so I took it back to complain.
2.5 months later I've just picked it up again and they mentioned that they had given the board to me before the resins had properly cured and patch up the cracked area.
Now I've got to look at it again for another 4-5montja before being able to use again :cry:
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Re: your first surboard. how did you feel back then?

Postby oldmansurfer » Sun Sep 04, 2016 10:50 pm

My first surfboard delaminated in the deck where my rear foot goes. Initially I fixed it by injecting resin under the delamination. This worked for a while then it delaminated where my front foot goes so I injected resin there. Then the whole deck delaminated and i cut it out and put a new layer of glass. Shortly after that I got a second board that I fell in love with and then a third board that I loved also so I got rid of the old board :lol: She was a good board in her younger years but after a couple years she was a worn down broken down old cow. I felt sad when I looked at her siting there unused so I set her free.
So what is worse.... dying or regretting it for the rest of my life? Obviously I chose not regretting it.
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Re: your first surboard. how did you feel back then?

Postby RinkyDink » Mon Sep 05, 2016 3:31 am

I remember my first junker surfboard. I got it in high school as a birthday gift and tried surfing it occasionally. I wasn't close enough to the ocean to surf it regularly in high school. In college I surfed the hell out of it. Unfortunately, I lent it to my surf buddy on a day I couldn't go out and he never brought it back. It broke in half in a big swell. I was pissed, but I knew it was just one of those things that happens. My buddy never offered to replace it. I'm still not sure what the right way to handle a broken borrowed board is. These days I would offer to replace a broken board if I were the one borrowing it, but back then neither of us had any money to replace surfboards. If I lent a board to somebody today and it broke, I would still just chalk it up to bad luck and accept the loss. I think trading boards with friends is too fun to let the possibility of a broken board shut you down. I might have a different attitude if I had a custom whiz bang board I spent a lot of money on. Anyway, it looks like you're all set to shred the Belgian coastline. Go take it out. If there's no surf, then take it out anyway and practice paddling and duck diving.

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Re: your first surboard. how did you feel back then?

Postby DreamSurf » Mon Sep 05, 2016 2:20 pm

waikikikichan wrote:
fromsk82surf wrote:do you still have your first? even if its broken


Since you're a former Pro Skateboarder, do YOU still have your first Skate Board ? I remember my first surf board, and I thought I would keep it forever. But after it broke twice, it got thrown away. Not worth keeping it. Needed to make more room for other boards.

Surfboards are just TOOLs. Do you remember your first Hammer ? Your first Screwdriver ? They will get good usuage during their life, then replaced at some point. A good surfer isn't determined by what he rides, but HOW he rides it.

Back in the 80's my friend in Hawaii got a photo in TRASHER magazine. He was kneeling down in front of all his skate boards stacked up behind him. The comment below photo was "SKATE, don't POSE".


I do not know if i still have it. it is in my fathers basement maybe. Or maybe my mom threw it away. but if she didnt then its still there cause they are divorced and my father never pays a visit to the basement. I do agree that there is no need. im not a hoarder anyways.

Surfboards are just tools, but really my friend i am not that rich and having a surfboard is a dream come true. but i am that kind of skateboarder that never broke his skateboard out of anger. really i have seen all my friends who were sponsored at the time and when they didnt pull a trick they would break it. i never ever ever did. so i agree its on tyje man and not on the boardd; it is just a tool. but when it is so expensive( likle a surfboard) and it is unreachable with your money. but then when you have it you are really happy you know.

i do not like posers you have them on the side they are muscled and have brand new element boards and u can see they never really used uit except just to be cool on the side. but hey they exist LOL. it is what it is man. i love the saying. skate do not pose. it is a cool quote :)

quiet honestly for the last thing. it is how he rides it you said. i believe there is that magic board that really fits you. i had a keith hufnagel skateboard 8 incher. that board was magic and i do not know why. but i loved the concave loved how big it looked (i was a 7.75 mainly) everything about it was good. i even had to rethink. i skated for the brand colorblind. and i used the keith hufnagel board against the rules of my sponsor. but i gave him his right and skated with the colorblind board after just to be ok with him.

yes they are tools and i do not speak against that. but i do say that there is that special board that gives it to you.

i cant speak for surfing tho.
It totally takes my brain and puts it on hold… it just smooths out the static.” – Katrina Del Mar
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Re: your first surboard. how did you feel back then?

Postby DreamSurf » Mon Sep 05, 2016 2:21 pm

RinkyDink wrote:I remember my first junker surfboard. I got it in high school as a birthday gift and tried surfing it occasionally. I wasn't close enough to the ocean to surf it regularly in high school. In college I surfed the hell out of it. Unfortunately, I lent it to my surf buddy on a day I couldn't go out and he never brought it back. It broke in half in a big swell. I was pissed, but I knew it was just one of those things that happens. My buddy never offered to replace it. I'm still not sure what the right way to handle a broken borrowed board is. These days I would offer to replace a broken board if I were the one borrowing it, but back then neither of us had any money to replace surfboards. If I lent a board to somebody today and it broke, I would still just chalk it up to bad luck and accept the loss. I think trading boards with friends is too fun to let the possibility of a broken board shut you down. I might have a different attitude if I had a custom whiz bang board I spent a lot of money on. Anyway, it looks like you're all set to shred the Belgian coastline. Go take it out. If there's no surf, then take it out anyway and practice paddling and duck diving.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pcHI_lTmog4


is 0.7 meter ok with 30 km. using the glassy.pro android app/ is that an ok wave?
It totally takes my brain and puts it on hold… it just smooths out the static.” – Katrina Del Mar
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Re: your first surboard. how did you feel back then?

Postby DreamSurf » Mon Sep 05, 2016 2:25 pm

Brian wrote:My first board was a 6'6" Webber Fat Burner. My parents bought it, along with my first Longboard (skateboard) for my 13th bday. The thing felt huge, but it was awesome. I had been bodyboarding for a few years and I clearly remember the feeling of terror while paddling out, trying to control my giant board. At the time I remember I weighed in at 38kg lol. I couldn't duck dive it and couldn't ditch it like I had usually done with my sponge and I was so afraid of hitting other people. I had that board until I graduated college and got rid of it while moving stateside. What are the dimensions of your new shorty? Looks like a fun stick!



the dimensions are 5.11 (near 6) x19.6x 2.4

im amazed that it holds me. perhaps cause it is a lot of foam/ photo's can be deceptive it is pretty thick and has less concave then the average i saw in stores

you be the judge.
It totally takes my brain and puts it on hold… it just smooths out the static.” – Katrina Del Mar
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Re: your first surboard. how did you feel back then?

Postby pmcaero » Mon Sep 05, 2016 3:04 pm

my first board is a 7'9" Bic, and I am still using it when it's smaller, because it's made out of plastic and very ding-resistant. Not the most exciting thing to surf, and not as good at catching waves as a longboard, but it's here lol. I also have a couple shortboards and a beater. Hopefully fall and winter I will be surfing shortboards exclusively.
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Re: your first surboard. how did you feel back then?

Postby Lebowski » Mon Sep 05, 2016 4:57 pm

fromsk82surf wrote:is 0.7 meter ok with 30 km. using the glassy.pro android app/ is that an ok wave?


It's impossible to say really without experience of your specific beach. Some beaches will have a surfable wave with a 0.7m swell, some will be completely flat.

30km/h wind is strong though. Unless it's offshore it will be messy.
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Re: your first surboard. how did you feel back then?

Postby oldmansurfer » Mon Sep 05, 2016 5:03 pm

I am not representative of the surfers these days but long ago the relationship between a surfboard and a surfer was fairly monogamous. Your board brought you so much fun and excitement it became the most important thing in your life. If you asked another surfer to borrow his board the answer was more likely to be "NO" than if you asked him if you could date his girlfriend (in which case he might have to think about it a bit). But boards get dinged and damaged with use so eventually they don't work as well and you get divorced from that board and fall in love all over with a new one. Now surfing is more polygamous for many surfers. Some guys or girls have lots of boards. In theory the boards are all specialist boards only good for one type of wave but really if you can learn to use lots of boards in lots of conditions. I always felt bad for not using a board that had brought me so much pleasure. I could understand why some guys burned or bashed their old boards instead of giving them away or selling them. I have attended secret late night ceremonies to destroy a board and bring a surfer good luck with his next board......or just another excuse to get trashed :)
So what is worse.... dying or regretting it for the rest of my life? Obviously I chose not regretting it.
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Re: your first surboard. how did you feel back then?

Postby icetime » Mon Sep 05, 2016 5:23 pm

oldmansurfer wrote:I am not representative of the surfers these days but long ago the relationship between a surfboard and a surfer was fairly monogamous. Your board brought you so much fun and excitement it became the most important thing in your life. If you asked another surfer to borrow his board the answer was more likely to be "NO" than if you asked him if you could date his girlfriend (in which case he might have to think about it a bit). But boards get dinged and damaged with use so eventually they don't work as well and you get divorced from that board and fall in love all over with a new one. Now surfing is more polygamous for many surfers. Some guys or girls have lots of boards. In theory the boards are all specialist boards only good for one type of wave but really if you can learn to use lots of boards in lots of conditions. I always felt bad for not using a board that had brought me so much pleasure. I could understand why some guys burned or bashed their old boards instead of giving them away or selling them. I have attended secret late night ceremonies to destroy a board and bring a surfer good luck with his next board......or just another excuse to get trashed :)


Some surfers have loads of money :lol:
Not me sadly, so if I want another baord I'll have to save up a bit and sell my old one to make up for it, I'll probably do that in a few months
Quiver: Victory epoxy fish shortboard 6'6", KaiShapes Custom Shortboard 5'10"
Tech savvy guy, don't hesitate to PM for help as long as you return the favour with surfing advice ;)
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