Surfing Waves

It was only 4-6 feet clean face but quick sets. I know I got the skills to surf it but I don't have the fitness. I spent 20-30 mins trying to paddle to the right spot to catch it. The rip was strong and was pulling me into the rocks. I was so exhausted that I could barely stand up after catching the only wave of the day. It really sucks when you're out of shape and the wave is damn good. I knew I shouldn't have gone into the water, but you know those days when it looks clean and you're just dying to catch one wave.

This is why I surf even when there aren't much waves. This past weekend not much in the way of surf but I got exercise and will be ready for when there is surf.

I was too embarrassed to ask help from other surfers. But I reckon if I stay out a bit longer, I would've been swept away by the rip and would needed help. I did start to panic a little bit as I wasn't sure how much stamina I had left which drained my stamina even faster. I know people say not to panic when you're caught in the rip but when I saw the waves smashing into the big rocks, I got pretty scared.

Lesson learned safely Keep some juice in the tank and don't underestimate the surf , on top of that never be afraid to ask for help!

Been there, done that

I think we all have

BaNZ wrote:I was too embarrassed to ask help from other surfers.

That's that last thought before you DIE. I would rather be embarrassed than floating face down.

BaNZ wrote: I knew I shouldn't have gone into the water, but you know those days when it looks clean and you're just dying to catch one wave.

When in DOUBT, don't go out.

One time on a rough big day, this shortboarder paddle over to me and said his friend is in trouble. He was totally exhausted and couldn't make it back to shore. I told him to get off his board ( of course, it was a shortboard ) and onto my longboard. I got on his board and told him to grab my ankle as i towed him in. Got him into to shallow water and told him to walk the rest. Later in the parking lot, they brought me a coffee.

The paddle of shame (paddling in from the line up rather than catching a wave in) is the other 'enjoyable' way of getting to shore...

dtc wrote:The paddle of shame (paddling in from the line up rather than catching a wave in) is the other 'enjoyable' way of getting to shore...

But so much less shameful than having to be rescued and/or resuscitated, and even more than that, the ambulance taking your lifeless body away!
IF IN DOUBT DON"T GO OUT!

jaffa1949 wrote:

dtc wrote:The paddle of shame (paddling in from the line up rather than catching a wave in) is the other 'enjoyable' way of getting to shore...

But so much less shameful than having to be rescued and/or resuscitated, and even more than that, the ambulance taking your lifeless body away!
IF IN DOUBT DON"T GO OUT!

.....or call the session as the case may be.....currents can change, swell can build, changes in tide can have a big effect on conditions.......stay aware and live to surf another day.....

jaffa1949 wrote:IF IN DOUBT DON"T GO OUT!

I know, but all surfers knows that it is impossible. When it is super clean sets.

Just for reference, I've attached a photo.

dbb definitely knows the location of it. I spoke with two locals, they didn't get in because they said the rip was too too strong and isn't breaking consistently.

BaNZ wrote: I spoke with two locals, they didn't get in because they said the rip was too too strong and isn't breaking consistently.

That would have been the point I would have seriously considered not going out! For reasons you became aware of! I watch for a while even on clean but larger days, see what the sneaker sets are going to do!

BaNZ wrote:It was only 4-6 feet clean face but quick sets. I know I got the skills to surf it but I don't have the fitness..

Until you are ready....small waves can be FUN.

Is that where the rip was dragging you?
Those rocks look pretty nasty

Yeah the thing was there was a rip taking you out to the lineup at the place as I monitored it for around 30 mins.. So I paddled out using the rip. But then as the tide comes in, it changed. Waves was breaking onto the rocks and the rip changed direction. I was told to go there by the locals. But I guess the ocean keeps changing!

I have been surfing a beach break without many contours to the shoreline. When you have mile after mile of straight beach break, it's pretty easy to see the where the rips and peaks have formed. The break you were at, from what I can tell, looks more like a cove with some fixed objects that will influence the flow of the currents. I have never seen a rip current reverse its direction, but it can probably happen if the tide changes and the shorescape is right. Anyway, it's probably wise to not allow yourself to get in the habit of judging the danger of a break by the size or lack of size of the waves. My worst surfing experiences have, for the most part, come from having to deal with currents I couldn't handle. It's hard to plan your escape from a beach when you lose control of your direction in the water. Rocks definitely raise the stakes.

currents always move in circles so if there is a rip out there is one in also. You need to be aware of where they lead because added to the waves pushing you in and rocks on the beach it becomes much more dangerous. If it was just the rip you could just go with it but if it takes you to a dangerous place then you don't want to do that.

I've surfed there a few times. I'm wrong with my wording that the rip changed directions. It's more of it shifting further down the coast. There was around 3 spot that the wave was breaking. But they are not consistent and moves around. The locals did warn me and said the tide is coming in and the wind is changing directions and I only got an hour to surf that spot. I was in and out after 30 mins. Didn't want to risk it but it was pretty stupid of me to get in the water anyway.

Luckily the only thing that hurt that day was my ego.

icetime wrote:
Is that where the rip was dragging you?
Those rocks look pretty nasty

we got some of those in briech towards tanger. even if the wavezs are good there are some unknown rock underneath the water. i learned the hardway when i was swimming. diving and then some wave pulled fortunately i had watershoes on of hottuna LOL. but my legs were bleeding.

i can only imagine me getting there full speed

the nastiest rocks are those that are under sand sometimes and other days they just appear when the sand that covered it went gone.