Surfing Waves

I started surfing when I was eleven. That was all I cared about for years, and then after moving inland I was forced to stop. I convinced myself for a while that I didn't need it, but after living that lie for too long it's hitting me hard. I miss the ocean like hell, I miss my boards, I miss paddling out, I miss the smell of surf wax, I miss the relaxed evenings spent playing around on the longboard at sunset, I miss duckdives, I miss giving the rookies tips when they're frustrated, I miss the wildlife, I miss the taste of salt, I miss spending all day every day in the water. I'm going crazy without it I don't care if anyone wants to respond to this, I just needed to get it out there to let some frustration out. The people I'm surrounded with are great but they just don't get it. So hello, community. I'm sure this has been a lovely first impression have a nice day, stay safe

Are you in prison? Still living with your parents? Life is about choices, but WELCOME to our little community. I quit surfing for 12 years. Took me that long to realize what a mistake that was.

Welcome and we would love some context to why you can't surf

have you checked for surf pools or surfable rivers in your area?

When I was in Colorado I went wind surfing on a reservoir

oldmansurfer wrote:Are you in prison? Still living with your parents? Life is about choices, but WELCOME to our little community. I quit surfing for 12 years. Took me that long to realize what a mistake that was.

Yes, definitely prison. If by prison you mean school Originally wasn't planning on college, but per my parents' protests I ended up at a small school a couple states inland. Don't get me wrong I'm thankful that I have the opportunity to learn in a good environment, I just made a mistake in allowing my decisions to be influenced and letting it result in giving up the ocean. Couple years till I graduate and hopefully can move back home. Not too bad, just going crazy after a while lacking saltwater. Had one of those moments today where that's all you can think about, hence the creation of this post that I'm now starting to despise more and more every time I reread it. Not you guys. My writing.

ksrowan,
I "get" your rant. I've been there. Get your ticket punched at University. It's an advantageous ticket to hold. You will realize this more deeply than ever later in your future.

There were periods in my life where I needed to enter the deserts in NM, AZ, and CA. It was essential to mental well being. There were and are periods in my life where i needed to get to the sea. Jack Johnson's, "To the Sea," helps me when I cannot get there. There were a couple of Winters 10 years ago spent in southern Germany. The Aloha Joe on-line Hawaiian radio is the thing that pulled me through. You must find these kinds of inspirations, too.

Following University, make your way permanently to the coast. It does not matter if you find employment in your degree field. The important thing is to get to the sea and surf.

More advice from an old guy that will assure your surfing bliss: Do not get involved with a young woman that will not go to the sea, too. Do not get involved with a young woman that will not let you surf. Do not get involved with a woman that does not share the same beliefs you have in religion, money management, and children. Do these things I am sharing with you and you will be surfing in no time. Lastly, if you enjoy motorcycles, do not get involved with a woman that will not you ride.
billie

you know, being in school. lots of young people spend their summers traveling and working overseas. You could find a cool place for a summer job like bartending, and surf all summer long.

Get a really good college result and engineer the rest of your life to suit your surf desires.
Trying to feed the addiction of surf from a poverty base doesn't work all that well

billie_morini wrote:Get your ticket punched at University. It's an advantageous ticket to hold. You will realize this more deeply than ever later in your future.

Well said. I went to UC Santa Barbara for my first 2 years and spent so much time in the ocean that my grades suffered. It was too hard to study when I could always hear the surf breaking. To finish strong I was forced to transfer to an inland school. Now I'm back in the water...with a teaching credential.

I went to University of Hawaii for four years. Scheduled my classes on Monday Wednesday and Friday so I could surf on Tuesday and Thursday(and the weekend). I did not have a car so my options were 1) take the beach bus which runs on a not very frequent schedule so I never did this although once I attempted to and found the bus had just left ahead of me so I walked after it and found I could beat it to the beach walking, 2) Catch a ride with a friend and I did that a bit or 3) walk to the beach about a mile and 20 to 25 minutes of fast walking if you know the roads in Waikiki which I did regularly. Sometimes I had to take classes on Tuesday and Thursday and would make it back from surfing just in time to go to class so I showed up in surf shorts and a t shirt not too different from many of the other kids there (except for the sand in on my feet) Then I went to Colorado State for 4 years and had to suffer for most of the time but did manage a couple windsurfing sessions and some snow skiing which is much easier than surfing. However I went back to Hawaii on breaks and surfed then. But really I can understand you might not have the options I had available. But hey college is still pretty fun so enjoy and then get on with your life.

icetime wrote:Welcome and we would love some context to why you can't surf

Icetime's comment reminded me of this old gag.

A doctor has come to see one of his patients in a hospital. The patient has had major surgery to both of his hands.

"Doctor," says the man excitedly and dramatically holds up his heavily bandaged hands. "Will I be able to play the piano when these bandages come off?"

"I don't see why not," replies the doctor.

"That's funny," says the man. "I wasn't able to play it before."

Schooling isn't a life sentence. Stick it out, find time to surf during the break if possible, and hopefully you'll be moving to the coast for good soon. And you'll never take even flat days for granted. At least you are not in a real prison.

From my experience, I never got the same level of stoke from windsurfing in the lake compared to the sea no matter the condition. Too me it has to be the ocean, period.

Oh, if you can swing it buy a carver skateboard. It definitely helps recapture some of the stoke on the days I can't go surf which has been about 6 days a week up to this point.