Surfing Waves

I read this article about 7 kook mistakes that everyone makes. I definitely made some of them.http://www.theinertia.com/surf/7-kook-moments-every-surfer-lives-through/
1) Getting your car stuck in the sand
Done that but did it so much before surfing that I knew how to get unstuck really well.

2) Putting your fins in wrong.
Never did that unless maybe you can put the right fin on the left side then maybe I have done that maybe still do that.

3) Walk of shame.
Nope

4) Mispronounce the name of a surf spot
Most likely maybe still do

5) Warm up shenanigans
Hmm I would say the author overestimates the value of a warm up. In my mind it depends on your activity level prior to surfing

6) Intoxicated ramble at a surf related event
Well I have been intoxicated surfing once so I guess so

7) Dropping in
Definitely done that. I probably will still do that again at some point

I am adding my own so feel free to add in

forgetting to wax your board
9) forgetting your board at the beach
10) forgetting to remove your cellphone from your pocket prior to getting in the ocean and also your glasses from your face

Leaving with an unwrapped leash.
PENALTY if a beach dog sees it!

BoMan wrote:Leaving with an unwrapped leash.
PENALTY if a beach dog sees it!

I do that one every single time I surf

Driving away with some wetsuit accessory left on top of your car

Done the wetsuit thing (vest I'll never see again).....

Three months after I started, I kooked my exit from the water....negoitated tricky heavy shore break on a steep rising tide beach....timed it right so I was able to escape between waves with my 9'3".....hustled out of the water and promptly put my board down to take off my leash a couple of meters away from the edge of the water....before taking off my leash I turned to admire the waves and ocean just as another wave hit....sending the longboard crashing into my legs as I was standing with the board laid lengthwise parallel to the edge of the water....fin ground across my foot, left a nice gash that promptly became very infected and took a month to heal (probably should have stayed out of the water)......I still have a reminder on my foot that I look at every time I put on my leash and remember which side of the board to stay on.

Two days ago I was on my fish; proper short fat retro fish with a wide nose and big volume....too casually duck-dipped an oncoming wave but the nose smacked the face of the wave and because it is so wide and fat I wrongly anticipated how fast the nose would penetrate the wave and since I had a semi loose casual grip on the board my launched body clattered into the board since the board stopped mid duck dip and I didn't......took one right across the face, particularly on the cheek and eye socket ridges....thought for sure I'd have a black eye for a week like the last time I did the same thing a few months ago (KOOK!) Told everyone I walked into a door.....last thing I need is everyone at work talking about how I manage to make myself look like I got robbed while having fun.....


This one wasn't me but I was out this morning on dawn patrol and there was no wind....between sets the water was like a lake, small swell today.....guy next to me was on what looked like a 6'8ish short board and flapping around like a bird in a birdbath.....he managed to right the ship and was sitting relatively calmly on his board when suddenly he was pitched off the back heels over head.....happened really fast like a turtle bit his toe or something....he just lost his balance.....I carefully paddled away as he was fixing himself back up....he came back later to "fall in" on me (would have been a drop in but to his credit he saw me and his eyes got big and he fell immediately sending his board flying at me....rough morning for the punter).

Surfing the ankle biter with a GoPro.

BoMan wrote:Surfing the ankle biter with a GoPro.

planning to do just that this summer

Putting your board on the wet sand fins down and then snapping a fin when you don't pick it up right. A friend told me...

Putting the freshly waxed board top down on the dry sand...

Tudeo wrote:Putting the freshly waxed board top down on the dry sand...

Hahahaha.....how about this one.....I read somewhere that it was good to rub sand into the wax for better traction so for the first 5 months or so I surfed I religiously would rub sand into the warmed up wax before going in.....when I read that was not the thing to do I scraped the wax and lo and behold, my knees that had been rubbed raw healed.

Putting sunscreen on seconds before going in the water and then slipping off board during first pop up

Jumping off the side of a boat and immediately (and spectacularly) stopping due to leash being lapped around the handrail of the boat..

drowningbitbybit wrote:Putting sunscreen on seconds before going in the water and then slipping off board during first pop up

Putting sunscreen on the board and waxing my skin...

If you have a guy who never brings his own wax and 'borrows' yours, substitute a bar of soap one day....

I've done that hand covered with sunscreen thing. It's even more effective when you are doing a turtle roll on the way out

drowningbitbybit wrote:Putting sunscreen on seconds before going in the water and then slipping off board during first pop up

Sounds exactly how my first surf session was

I still do the forgetting to wax your board, sometimes I forget to wax it for over 6 sessions until I start slipping during every popup, have my walk of shame and go get wax and I do catch the best wave ever and turn around to find someone else riding it and having to back out

BoMan wrote:Leaving with an unwrapped leash.
PENALTY if a beach dog sees it!

I close the leash around itself and wear the loop around my head when leaving the water so my leash doesn't have any sand in it nor do dogs chase me

Paying to put your child into the wrong wetsuit.

Following right behind another kook paddling out to the line up. Then a wave hitting him/her and having that board smash you in the face.

Standing a board on its tail against a tree. So many tourist do that in Waikiki cause they see it in photos. Then getting punch out or that board broken in half after it falls on somebody's wife taking a suntan.

I did this one recently*- taking a board out that you haven't used for a while and forgetting that it's still got summer wax on it in the middle of winter. Slippy









* Today