almost drowned yesterday...

[Sandiegosurf]

I'm sure you guys have got posts like this before... anyways

i would consider myself a beginner surfer right now, i have caught a handful of ways sideways before where like you ride down the line... but most of the waves i catch i just go straight toward the beach. i have a lot of experience as a skateboarder so once i learned how to like get up properly on the waves it was really easy.

so i was paddling out yesterday with a group of friends in Pacific Beach, San Diego at tourmaline park. on surfline.com the forecast exactly said, poor conditions 3-5 ft occ. 6. It was one of those days where the waves were breaking really far out and the current was pushing toward the beach so even though it wasn't that far out, it took a long time to get out there. Once we were out there, it was also one of those days here where the waves do not stop coming at a very fast rate but i was able to duck dive most of them. so after a while me and my friends went back in.

The second time i paddled out that day the waves looked the same and i only went with one of my friends. But we were leaving really soon so i really wanted to catch at least 1 wave despite the conditions. My ego went to far... being a skater my whole life i put myself into a mentality where i was fearless of the water. I was basically telling my self, what is the worst that could happen out there... if i eat it i just hit the water and it wont hurt where as a skating if you fall, you fall on concrete. basically i was tired of surfing the little waves like i usually do and just went for it fearless. so we paddled out, the current was still strong as hell, by the time i out all the way out there, my shoulders were shot... It was fine at first but then huge sets of wave just started coming. Everytime i surf at this beach, at random times, huge sets of waves come for like 5 waves then goes back to normal which i think is considered the Occ. 6 ft on surfline? anyways i was really far out, there were only like 3 other people out there and they were really experienced. I duck dove under the first huge wave but the problem was how FAST the waves were coming in as well as the position i was at. I was right in the position where the huge waves that were forming break at. Even if i paddles left or right, the waves are what i think called close outs? basically the whole wave for about a couple yards all breaks at one time, you cant ride down the line on these types of waves. It then got to the point where i couldn't even duck dive the waves and was just getting slammed, so when i realized i couldn't take on these waves, i tried paddling back to shore and it was impossible. the current was pulling me toward the ocean. I wasn't panicking at the moment though and decided that i just need to lay on my board and take a beating by one wave so that i could get pushed in through the white wash, So i tried it..., i was flat on my stomach on the board and i was right on the wave as it was forming , it took me a couple ft in the air and just slammed me and i got no where and lost my board. After i had popped back up over the water, the other huge wave was already about to crash so i went under again without my board and this is where i started panicking, i was running out of breath and couldn't paddle back because of the current... after the second wave crashed, i went up again and managed to get on top of my board with barley any breath and just ate the 3rd wave again but this time the white wash was able to push me in some how. And when i mean white wash im talking about the white wash after i ride the wave and get slammed. After that i was able to slowly paddle back in with the support of some small waves.

During that time where i almost drowned, my friend was way behind me, and their was only like 1 other person near me, their were also no lifeguards out that day. If my leash would of snapped i would of definitely drowned as i highly depend on my board to float.

I hope you guys enjoyed my story and i hope you guys have can me some tips on how to avoid situations like this and what to do if you are caught into a situation like this, where waves are coming at a fast rate and just pounding. I have already learned my lesson about this and now will always respect the waves even though san diego doesn't even compare to waves in other places... but i am a beginner so it was a rough day and 3-5 ft waves are considered huge at the lvl im at.

[Big H]

A tourist drowned recently in the lagoon between the beach and the outer reef next to where I work....lagoon depth at the tide he died is max >3m. Ocean must be respected; I'm glad you lived to tell the tale and I hope you share with your friends.....beyond that take the opportunity to learn more about ocean currents and waves in general, particularly at your favoured breaks and learn to swim better as well as how to escape situations or avoid in the first place like the one that you were in......massive learning opportunity for you. Glad you made it.

Here's a practice / confidence builder......on a smaller day, let your board trail you attached by the leash and swim in from out back.....mind the wave and don't get zonked going through surf by your board....it will give you some confidence to know how easily you can make it in........if it isn't easy then you better practice swimming and water safety before going out back.

[oldmansurfer]

Learn to look for currents before you go out. Then when you want to come in know where to come in at and where it will be difficult.

[RinkyDink]

I'm glad you were okay. If the time interval between waves is too frequent, I will often just surf inside, even practice in white water. I've surfed my beach enough to know that there are days when the paddle-out is not much of a factor and I can get outside and rest. There are other days where even if I make it outside I'm kept busy and quickly become exhausted while I'm there. I've gotten to the point now where I know what a good day at my beach, for me that is, looks like. Some days I can surf on the inside and some days the outside. The ocean changes all the time and you need to adapt along with it. Your story sounds like part of the learning process of getting to know the break you're surfing.

By the way, do you know how to identify a rip current? Was it possible you were in one when you tried to get back to shore?

[Sandiegosurf]

honestly i dont even think i was in much of a rip... i was just so exhausted and out of breath that my paddle wasn't strong enough, and even if i could paddle hard the waves would of crashed on me.

[oldmansurfer]

If there are waves there are currents. Unlike skating if you just stop you can still die.

[Surf Hound]

You got worked. It's the oceans way of growling at you to remind you she can bite you anytime, at her leisure. Next time you find yourself in that position remember you made it last time and never ever panic. Panic = trouble in the water. Stay calm and take a breath and dive under the oncoming wave. Without your board you can get deep enough to avoid the pounding. You will have a pull on your leash leg but that's it. 5 or 6 seconds under water and shoot back up grab your board and paddle. Another wave?? Bail the board again, dive under and pop back up. Make sure there are no other surfers around when you do this cause your board is your responsibility. If there are surfers you should take the beating unless there is no other choice and feel you have to bail. Waves 3-6 feet typically won't break your leash if it's in decent shape, especially if you are bailing before white water so chances are it won't break. We have all been there, it's a learning experience and remember not to panic as that only uses up resources that you are going to need. Cheers...

[Sandiegosurf]

what would you guys do in this situation though? i know you guys are experienced enough to see where the waves are gonna be coming and wouldn't put yourself into this situation, but just say your in a spot where your right at the breaking point of waves that you cannot handle and they just keep coming. as a newbie i feel like the best way to get out of there would be to just hold onto your board and let the waves smash your way back to shore

[BoMan]

That is truly scary and I'm glad you made it back!

To what's been said, I would add that it's important to surf with a friend and to have an understanding with that person that you will look out for each other.

Although done in a pool this video shows how to use a surfboard to rescue struggling swimmers.

[Big H]

what would you guys do in this situation though? i know you guys are experienced enough to see where the waves are gonna be coming and wouldn't put yourself into this situation, but just say your in a spot where your right at the breaking point of waves that you cannot handle and they just keep coming. as a newbie i feel like the best way to get out of there would be to just hold onto your board and let the waves smash your way back to shore

Turn to the beach and bellyride the whitewater out of the breaking zone if it truly is too much...then paddle around or go in and recoup.....otherwise hang in there if it's a set....if it's just the regular rollers from a couple of different swells that are too much probably better go in as the sets will clean your clock....

[BoMan]

what would you guys do in this situation though?

When dealing with oncoming white water from bigger waves, I slide off the board, pull the nose hard into my body, and ride out the turbulence. I'm not a big guy (5'7," 145 pounds) and this has kept me in control of a 9 foot longboard.

Here's a picture of Robert Wingnut Weaver demonstrating the technique.

Wingnut.JPG (5.73 KiB) Viewed 803 times

[oldmansurfer]

what would you guys do in this situation though? i know you guys are experienced enough to see where the waves are gonna be coming and wouldn't put yourself into this situation, but just say your in a spot where your right at the breaking point of waves that you cannot handle and they just keep coming. as a newbie i feel like the best way to get out of there would be to just hold onto your board and let the waves smash your way back to shore

It's not so easy to translate into what would you do. I would first look at the ocean determine the currents before I go in. Once out if I find myself getting tired I would go in immediately if the conditions are such that I may have difficulty. I try to always have a reserve of energy to expend not included in which is my last gasp so I am going to go in before it becomes a difficult task. However I have been doing this for my whole life so I am pretty good at determining when to come in. Then there are ways to avoid getting pounded and ways to come in through the surf. Ultimately to be safe you need to learn to read the ocean and to know your own limitations. If you are caught in a slow current and are not making progress to shore then you need to get to the side and out of the current. Better yet learn to read the ocean and know ahead of time that it is there. People often panic in the slightest outward current then struggle wildly and expend all their energy uselessly flailing around. Knowing your abilities and the currents will help to keep that from happening.

[Tudeo]

First study the waves from the beach, take ur time for that. U can also do some warming-up exercises at the same time.
See where the waves are breaking, try to find landmarks onshore to line up against. Like OMS said, look for currents.
Then decide what wave to surf and where u want to position urself for it, and where to go in case of trouble.

And learn ur limits, don't go out if it's too big or if the currents too strong.

Also u can write up a little report after surfing where u put the prediction and the actual experience. So next time u have some reference to interpret the prediction. That way u learn when and where to go out next time.

[waikikikichan]

Listen to what Turtle says, "When the waves breaks here, don't be there, or you gonna get drilled"

Question, what's the best way to avoid getting mugged in a dark alley late at night ? Do not be out late, walking down a dark alley. Don't put yourself in situations YOU can't handle. In Hawaii, we learn " When in Doubt, Don't go out".

[RinkyDink]

what would you guys do in this situation though? i know you guys are experienced enough to see where the waves are gonna be coming and wouldn't put yourself into this situation, but just say your in a spot where your right at the breaking point of waves that you cannot handle and they just keep coming. as a newbie i feel like the best way to get out of there would be to just hold onto your board and let the waves smash your way back to shore

I think the best advice is to keep yourself from panicking. If you had drowned yesterday, it probably would have been because you couldn't control your panic and used up all your remaining energy panicking. If the sight of big waves are making your heart rate soar uncontrollably, then you're consuming precious energy being terrified. Controlling your fear is your first priority because once you do that you have a clear head to work with and can use it to get yourself out of a bad situation. Anyway, the most efficient way to get out of the impact zone is often to ride the white water in. However, you could be surfing in a cove with cliffs and have a really difficult exit point on a stairwell. What do you do then? Again, control your panic and use your head.

[jaffa1949]

Mother Nature gave you the schooling!
First consider your own safety, no lifeguards = you better be able to save your self, know the beach understand it the rips the waves and how you will be safe in it. Recognise when you are tired, always have enough energy to get back in to shore.
Panic is a killer, stopped you from realizing, If you are being tumbled by white water you can't handle turn around and get washed to the beach!!!!!!!!!!.

Leave your ego at home, all of us have encountered days when it is better to stay on the beach.

Years ago in Hawaii , I was young and very capable but I chose not to go out at Waimea, talking to a. Hawaiian waterman , I said I wasn't capable of facing that day, he said "thank you" I nearly fell over, he explained that the break is so often fill with people who did not recognise they were not ready for it, they became water hazards and took surfing time away in being rescued, some died.
Stay on the beach, nature was kind and sent you in!

[pmcaero]

When trying to belly ride on a bigger breaking set, would it help to be as far back on your board as possible? This way the nose stays out of the water and your legs are basically a rudder / anchor, improving stability.

[jaffa1949]

No! Best position is a stable position tha helps the board glide, a little back might help but legs dangling everywhere just acts as a brake! Death grip the rails and just be projected shoreward, when the board moving a little lean side to side steering helps. The obvious no to this technique is a rocky shoreline.

If you wipe out repeat the wash to shore method until you do! Take good hard look at yourself and recogise you should not ave been out there!

[RinkyDink]

When trying to belly ride on a bigger breaking set, would it help to be as far back on your board as possible? This way the nose stays out of the water and your legs are basically a rudder / anchor, improving stability.

I have found that when I take a large wall of white water in that it does help to move back on my board because the weight of the white water on my back can push the nose of my board into a pearl. However, I don't like hanging off the back of the board either because if things get chaotic I don't really want my torso near the fins of my board while everything is getting flipped around.

[Big H]

Don't overthink it....if you are in trouble, grab the board like a body board and skate out of there....you're a surfer so catch the wave, whitewater or whatever and ride it out of there controlling the pitch of the nose by pressing up or laying down....lay on it like you were going to catch the wave because otherwise if you're trying to catch a wall of slop you won't catch it at all since like Unc said you're putting on the brakes and will just get spun some more rather than coolly sliding out of the mess, steering to the shoulder or channel, taking a deep breath and getting on with it.....


Go take some on the head then escape it....nothing like application to cement a learning experience....