Jesse Billauer broke his neck surfing about 5 or 6 years ago. He wiped out and whacked his head on the bottom before he had a chance to get his arms out.
A few years ago, he ahd a golf match with Rob Machado (Legend) and talked 2 him about getting back into the water. He lies on the board and Rob pushes him when a wave comes.
This story came from step into liquid (not directly)...
You'll probably remember.
Those are the stories that give me aspiration. I dont know about the rest of you, but thats a truly inspirational story.
Rob Machado is now in my top people/surfers list.