Surfing Waves

I was at DMJ's in cali today and i ahvent surfed in a long time. I was in this MASSIVE rip and i was trying to get in cuz i was also surrounded by jeti's! This fat 7 foot wave comes in and washes me in and im coming in i see millions of thick SHARP sticks shooting outta the water. I run over one then one stabs me in the stomach (im okay) my leash gets caught on the stick and sets are pounding me i didnt know which way was up i swam down and felt the leash tug and i came up gasping for air and i finally made it in exasperated.... i sat down and napped thanking god im alive!

I heard someones bamboo feilds or something got washed out and are everywhere, and theres tons of crap in the water everywhere...

ya, it seems like the people in california have trouble keeping their crap on land. i was talking to one of my friends from huntington beach a few months ago, and she said that one of the people at the sewer treatment plant fvcked up and hit the wrong button and dumped tons of sewage out into the ocean. people cant get it through their heads just to keep the ocean clean!!!

I just surfed Redondo beach the other day in southern California and I got slapped so hard in the back by a hunk of plywood, and there were chips of wood and candy wrappers and all sorts of s**t in the water. California sucks sometimes....

ya dude all the sh#t in the water is beat. I saw wrappers, trash bags, soggy paper, bamboo sticks shooting out, the water was sh#tty looking i cant believe it