Surfing Waves

Post pictures of your home break and tell us why you like it!

Bolinas (hence BoMan) is an exposed beach break that has consistent knee to chest high surf. As a 64 year old longboarder, this is perfect for me! It works best in offshore winds from the north and when the swell comes from the south. Waves at the beach tend to peel to the left and the best conditions are around mid tide.

He we go, Bo a thread that covers that
viewtopic.php?f=40&t=5096

Here is a picture of the north end of my beach SE to east swells NE to NW winds all tides
South end of same beach opposite set up NE to SE swells SE to SW winds a rarity this one but as you can see epic

No pics, but this is my neck of the woods.

http://www.surfline.com/surf-report/mor ... rnia_4193/

RinkyDink wrote:No pics, but this is my neck of the woods.

http://www.surfline.com/surf-report/mor ... rnia_4193/

That looks like my home break.........except is usually sunny and warm and there are no cars lining the parkiing lot. Oh yeah and there is usually a nice big sandy beach too.

jaffa1949 wrote:He we go, Bo a thread that covers that
viewtopic.php?f=40&t=5096

Sorry I didn't see the thread.
Love the photos! I will retire in September 2016 and look forward to getting wet in new longboard spots!

oldmansurfer wrote:

RinkyDink wrote:No pics, but this is my neck of the woods.

http://www.surfline.com/surf-report/mor ... rnia_4193/

That looks like my home break.........except is usually sunny and warm and there are no cars lining the parkiing lot. Oh yeah and there is usually a nice big sandy beach too.

It's pretty nice when it's sunny here and the wind and swell cooperate, but it'll never compete with Kauai.

BoMan wrote:Post pictures of your home break and tell us why you like it!

Bolinas (hence BoMan) is an exposed beach break that has consistent knee to chest high surf. As a 64 year old longboarder, this is perfect for me! It works best in offshore winds from the north and when the swell comes from the south. Waves at the beach tend to peel to the left and the best conditions are around mid tide.

That's a beautiful area BoMan. Count your blessings.

RinkyDink wrote:It's pretty nice when it's sunny here and the wind and swell cooperate, but it'll never compete with Kauai.

What's your favorite spot in Kauai? I went to Princeville many moons ago when my kids were little and we rode mats!

BoMan wrote:

RinkyDink wrote:It's pretty nice when it's sunny here and the wind and swell cooperate, but it'll never compete with Kauai.

What's your favorite spot in Kauai? I went to Princeville many moons ago when my kids were little and we rode mats!

Unfortunately, I've never been to Kauai. I was on the big island back when I was a teen on vacation with my parents, but I never went surfing. I was responding to OMS who lives on Kauai. I'm sure he's riding some amazing surf spots.

It's pretty nice when it's sunny here and the wind and swell cooperate, but it'll never compete with Kauai.

Sunny day in Morro Bay. (Not my video.)

Here' s a smattering of my latest consistent fave spot....haven't been there for a couple of weeks, been trying new spots....the whole home break thing idea actually is a collection of about 8 spots....anyway......

RinkyDink wrote:

BoMan wrote:

RinkyDink wrote:It's pretty nice when it's sunny here and the wind and swell cooperate, but it'll never compete with Kauai.

What's your favorite spot in Kauai? I went to Princeville many moons ago when my kids were little and we rode mats!

Unfortunately, I've never been to Kauai. I was on the big island back when I was a teen on vacation with my parents, but I never went surfing. I was responding to OMS who lives on Kauai. I'm sure he's riding some amazing surf spots.

Well......I mostly surf stormy wind swell on the east side of the island....actually all I do is surf at the beach near my home because I am too busy to go look for surf and there is usually some lots of unridden waves there. Rarely it is really good but often among the storm surf there is a nice wave or two or three. I have however surfed some incredible waves. Off Princeville there is a break called hideaways that is a left and on the right swell is amazing. I imagine these days most good breaks are all insanely crowded. My favorite break was Kealia beach mostly because I knew it really well and there weren't many surfers there and I got some incredible waves there. Now every day there is a zoo of surfers. I really liked surfing Hanalei but now it is drop in city and even more insanely crowded. When I surfed there you didn't drop in on anyone or there were consequences to pay and there were far less surfers. I surfed Waikokos and for a left that was one of my favorites at least when it was well overhead. I surfed Cannons which is a shallow reef left and a spectacular wave that tubed and spit so hard it hurt and made your skin red. I hear now when it's good there are a bunch of pro surfers out there but I really don't like shallow reef breaks. I surfed Pakala's which is a long left that isn't so shallow and really long like it takes you 20 minutes to paddle back out after riding a wave also known as Infinities. So I guess ultimately mostly I am not surfing amazing surf spots but there are a lot of great breaks over here.

here are some of my home break

OMS wrote:So I guess ultimately mostly I am not surfing amazing surf spots but there are a lot of great breaks over here.

It's not just the quality of the break that matters. You're out in the water looking back at the shores of Kauai. That's a great way to relax on a regular basis. I love the simple pleasures of surfing (the sound of the ocean, the way a set of unbroken waves look as they roll in, etc.) The rides I have are really icing on the cake.

At my age I need to keep active. This is my motivation and reward for doing so. Physically I get vigorous exercise and a powerful massage from the waves when I wipe out or get caught inside. Mentally it's like meditation all thoughts leave my mind except for the waves. The bonus is it is Kauai and I don't need to think about what wet suit to wear. But I am glad I surfed those spots before they became zoos and once in a while I get a good wave where I am. I am just happy to be out there with a chance to catch a good wave. Any day in the ocean beats the heck out if sitting around at home.

oldmansurfer wrote:At my age I need to keep active. This is my motivation and reward for doing so. Physically I get vigorous exercise and a powerful massage from the waves when I wipe out or get caught inside. Mentally it's like meditation all thoughts leave my mind except for the waves. The bonus is it is Kauai and I don't need to think about what wet suit to wear. But I am glad I surfed those spots before they became zoos and once in a while I get a good wave where I am. I am just happy to be out there with a chance to catch a good wave. Any day in the ocean beats the heck out if sitting around at home.

I hear you there. I'm getting old as well. I can't believe how stiff my muscles get now. I work as hard at staying flexible as I do at gaining strength nowadays. There is something of a cure for old-aged muscles however . . . the foam roller. If you don't have one, then see if you can try one out. I find it really helps with my flexibility.

When I was a young guy I did yoga well before I started surfing so when I started surfing I was quite flexible. I am still somewhat flexible but need to keep stretching to keep from getting stiff. I have a routine that seems to work, no need for devices......so far I'll keep that in mind as the years go by

RinkyDink wrote:Sunny day in Morro Bay. (Not my video.)

I love Go Pro videos where the camera faces forward. Having a view of the board and wave helps me appreciate the location and the rider's experience. My wife often tells me I lack imagination!

Here's a look at a small day where I go...

BoMan wrote:Here's a look at a small day where I go...

I love those forward GoPro views too. They allow you to see the translucence of the water. Anyway, that's a great vid of your break. Looks beautiful up there. I love surfing in Norcal. I've been missing all these good swells over the past couple of weeks and it's been killing me. I hurt my leg in a bike accident and it's taking forever to heal. Arghh! I've focused on training my upper body while my leg heals up so I should be good to go. Hopefully this weekend I'll get out into the surf again

oldmansurfer wrote:When I was a young guy I did yoga well before I started surfing so when I started surfing I was quite flexible. I am still somewhat flexible but need to keep stretching to keep from getting stiff. I have a routine that seems to work, no need for devices......so far I'll keep that in mind as the years go by

Sounds like you got a good routine going. I'm planning to get some yoga going soon.