Surfing Waves

I just read this http://www.theinertia.com/surf/classics-gerry-lopez/ and realized Gerry lopez is still relevant to me. I especailly like this part

The longer you surf, the more you begin to appreciate that pretty much any wave will do. It’s not so much the actual ride as it just being there – just being able to get out there and go through the whole experience. If the waves aren’t that good, it’s still good fun. I still enjoy it as much as I ever did.

Co incidentally saw 'Riding Giants' again on TV a few days ago and Gerry Lopez was a big part of that. Came across in the film as a very relaxed guy, super cool, willng to give everyone credit (other surfers, for example). You wouldn't, from his interviews, realise just how important he was and is to surfing. Certainly he doesn't blow his own trumpet

You Bali guys should, I don't know, love or hate him. Was virtually the person who 'discovered' (surfing wise) uluwatu and G-land

Odd fact: he had a part in Conan the Barbarian with Arnie. And the sequel I think.

Thanks for the link. Enjoyed the article.

John