Surfing Waves

Just saw the post from Surfing magazine, "Matt Pagan tried to eat a man's surfboard". Scary scary stuff.

If you don't know how to Duck Dive, then you shouldn't be on a Short board.

(And don't be a Kook and sit in the pit talking to your buddy not paying attention to what's happening.)

http://www.surfingmagazine.com/video/ma ... surfboard/

I don't think that guy was doing a faulty duck dive or duck dip at all....I bet he was just diving over the front of the board with the full intention of allowing the board to shoot out behind him while he dove under the wave.....last person I yelled at in the water was doing this wave after wave while she was battling being stuck inside.....almost hit someone as well....it is NOT ok to do this as a regular method....I see people out in waves that are too big for them who do not duck dive but just throw their boards and dive under as their method of getting out back. If that is the only way that you can find to cope with the waves then the waves are too big for you.

Or at least don't be doing it with other surfers around nearby

Habits stick. Better never to do it IMO. I would bet that a lot of people who do this as a practice probably think they are in the clear when they are actually too close to other surfers....the whole scope of perception; newbies see barely past the nose of their boards. If throwing your board is a viable option for a person then it is only a matter of time before they do it and endanger someone else because they "thought" they were alone.

Every big wave surfer does that maneuver

oldmansurfer wrote:Every big wave surfer does that maneuver

Argumentative.


A lot of small wave surfers (learners) around here do it as well. Big wave surfing is a specialized offshoot of our sport practiced by the very skilled.

In the video the guy got kooked in the jaw by a guy who SHOULD have been able to control his board but could not in surf that wasn't that big. I

Yes in the picture the guy didn't need to bail his board and certainly shouldn't have in front of another surfer. That says nothing about doing that maneuver properly. Beginners do lots of stuff that is dangerous to other surfers that when other surfers do the same thing it isn't dangerous.