Surfing Waves

Just thought some discussion of switching fin configuration and what makes you do that? I have not been one to switch much but I now have a board that I can easily switch between thruster and quad. I still haven't tried it as a quad yet but getting used to it as a thruster. But it got me thinking probably once I figure out what is the difference for me I'll probably need to bring the fins with me to surf and change out depending on what is there when iget to the beach. Is that what you do?

I learned on a singlefin board and continued to surf single fins long after multiple fins came out because I didn't see a need to change. However now that I am surfing multiple fins I had to develope different instincts or reactions because my ancient instincts were totally wrong with multiple fins most notably on steep drops. I used to turn at the top and my single fin would pop out of the water and the board side slipped down the wave till the fin engaged then combined with the inertia from falling I shot forward imediately. With multple fins I get hung up on the lip if I try that. It seems to me however on drops quads and thrusters are quite similar so I figure I will be switching between those. It took me about 3 years to learn to react differently so I am not about to go back to single fins. However do any of you single fin? Also do you use larger/smaller fins? and in what situations?

I switched the fins today to a quad configuration so the next session will be quad. I'll see what it does. Also for my other board I got a fin adapter so now I can surf it as a thruster.

I wouldn't mind trying a quad, but all my boards are Tri fin. Apart from the one that has glassed in fins, for the others I have ranged from single to 2+1 to 3 equal and everything in between. I'm pretty set now with what feels best but it takes a while and experimenting is actually pretty fun.

Still want a quad tho; next board maybe a 5 fin box set up.

To thoroughly mess up things, try a Twin-Stabi set up. If you have FCS plugs, try the MR-TX. If Futures, try the T-1 fins. The rail engages good but still lets the tail come around. Works well with big boy shortboards. Doesn't feel as "tracky" as thruster setups.

I switch around trying to find what feels the best....sometimes I get lucky. I used to have 12 putters or so when I played golf and about the same amount of wedges.....no one needs 12 putters, but it just happens that way to a lot of players....

...my fin box is growing....patterns in behavior?

I should say that because of my incorrect muscle memory about multiple fins I did my first and only significantly high (6 to 8 feet) airdrop. I have done some that were just a foot or two but this was on a big backside steep wave at Horners. I took off and turned at the top and quickly realized I had done the wrong thing again and straightened out but by then the wave was beyond verticle below me. As I dropped off I sort of went into a crouch and the board came up under me and right before I landed I extened my legs and pushed the board back down till it contacted the water. I landed without much of a jar and I thought OMG! I am still on the board!!!! and made a bottom turn around the section and got back onto the wave. I have no clue how I pulled that off but it was intense with much adrenalin rushing through me.

But now I have gotten my steep drops down for multiple fins and it doesn't seem to matter if there are three or four fins. Maybe I will try 5 fins next??? I am glad I don't try to turn at the top anymore. I recall one time where I was surfing with my neighbor and his son and I knew his son was near where I was taking off and I tried to turn at the top and made it down a little ways but the lip caught me at about my chest area and held me while my board started to drop away. I knew the boy was inside of me and managed to keep one foot in contact with the board and then felt the board push up under that fully extended leg and I managed to push the board away from where the boy was with that one foot before I got pummeled by the wave all of this being underwater from my legs up in the lip waiting to go over.

oldmansurfer wrote:.....and I thought OMG! I am still on the board!!!!

...happens to me all the time....

And you would've also received a 4.17 from the judges for that maneuver !