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Feeling my feet again

PostPosted: Fri Sep 04, 2015 4:46 am
by benjl
Hey guys

I've been doing lots of reading and lurking in recent months but finally have something to post about! :D

I've been through a big spell of not enjoying surfing at all and sick of just getting pounded by our winter swells with massive / grueling paddles just to get an average wave. Not to mention damn cold waters that leave my hands practically useless and disabled after an hr in the water.

However, i had some positive moments in recent weeks that brought my stoke back a bit!
Firstly i'm finally getting used to wearing booties and how to put them on to minimise the amount of water that inevitably ends up in them :x :|

The other positive is that i've finally had some decent water time to give my new 6'1 a proper try and i'm liking it!

It's only 29.1l volume which is on the smaller size that i've owned and I did wonder whether it would be too little to use as a general 'all-around board'.
However i've caught some waves probably as small as 1ft and it seems to go well and be very lively.

The front doesn't seem to have huge rocker which I guess helps it maintain speed although the back seems to have a decent wack of rocker. I didn't notice it much until you lie it on the water and see how much the back 15" rises out of the water.

What's surprised me most about it is that all my mates told me that the pin tail would be no good in our conditions and that it would be too 'tracky' and slow. However the board seems quite fast and very lively, much more so than my 6'3 as pictured with the thumb tail.
Ironically enough it doesn't feel like it holds a line as straight and tight on bigger waves as my 6'3 did either :?

I've also attached a pic of my old 6'2 which this board has effectively replaced, more rocker overall but a lot more in the tail.

Kumai Kumai Kumai :lol: :lol:

Re: Feeling my feet again

PostPosted: Sat Sep 05, 2015 4:26 pm
by saalro
Why not go travel and surf? Or move to Australia. Easy to say it i know.

I've only been surfing for 2 years but i learnt to surf in sunny California, and then went to tropical Indonesia to surf, i live in England and the water drops to about 10 in winter and the weather gets cold, winter is when the UK gets bigger swell unfortunately, and in summer when there is little swell the weather warms. I wish it was the other way around.

I don't like wearing boots, gloves and hood either, i find them very uncomforatble and lacking feel.

And then you have to work around your job, and money and everything else and it's difficult.