by dtc » Mon Aug 24, 2015 11:40 pm
In terms of walking out, remember 'never get between the board and the beach' (ie don't have the board in front of you - a wave will take it and propel it into your head). In front of you includes ensuring the nose of the board isn't so far in front that it can swing around and smack you.
When falling, try and do the following
1. never fall between the board and the beach.... (basically, if you can fall so the board is pushed in front of you, then when the wave takes the board it will take it away from you rather than directly over you). So fall backwards and push the board beachwards
2. fall flat - do not dive into the water. It might be unexpectedly shallow. Don't jump off either unless you are confident of the depth and you use very soft legs (knee bending) - people have broken ankles etc. Best way to fall is butt first if you can; but always remember to fall as if the water is shallow
3. if you don't know where your board is, as Jaffa says, protect your head. (even when under water - a board can spear many feet into the water) If you are comfortable enough in doing it, open your eyes under water and you can spot your board before surfacing. If there are other surfers around, surface with arms around your head as well, because you don't know where they are and your arms will make it easier for them to see you.
4. be aware before you fall of any underwater dangers - a rock, for example. If you cant avoid surfing near that danger, keep in mind that its there and protect yourself or take appropriate action
5. don't panic. The average time under water is something like 3-4 seconds and even big waves will rarely hold you down for more than 10 -15 seconds. Everyone can hold their breath for 15 seconds, unless they are panicking and thrashing around. You cant fight the wave - let it tumble you for a few seconds and it will then release you and you can surface. Get comfortable with being washed around (do some body surfing, for example, to really get a good understanding)
I do pretty much what old man does when walking out, or I walk out holding the nose (tip: wax the nose a little bit to help grip). Don't get behind the board.