Surfing Waves

This thread is for everyone to deposit the wisdom they have gained from surfing to enlighten and maybe even amaze others
The first one from me actually comes from the movie North Shore but it is a basic important precept of surfing
1) When the wave breaks here, Don't be there, or you going to get drilled.

One from me.
2) respect the ocean. It brings us much fun but can easily kill us too. Don't take the risk for granted, be aware and prepared.

3) It'll hurt less if you're standing on the surfboard when it happens.

4) Don't ever drop in on me

oldmansurfer wrote:4) Don't ever drop in on me

Funny, I got tired of trying to explain the rules and etiquette of surfing. Every time I try to be nice and tell them that dropping in is dangerous, they usually reply " no one owns the ocean " or " don't tell me how to surf, I've been ..... blah blah ".

So now instead of being threatening, I say with a big grin " Please drop in on me, Go ahead, you should see what happens " and throw a even bigger smile. Also yelling at people to stay out of the pit doesn't work. I just yell " hey, stay there. Right there, don't move ". Funny they always paddle away quickly.

I am not saying I will do anything but here it is a rule to follow that may have consequences however I am not the enforcer. I usually just go around anyone dropping in on me.
Still.......Don't drop in on me. Go find Waikikichan and drop in on him

Go with the Flow

Don't fight the forces of nature, work with them

oldmansurfer wrote:Go find Waikikichan and drop in on him

I tried telling these tourist guys from Israel to not ride the wave when someones already on. They were having a ball not caring about others. They told me " we don't care, we're on vacation !" So I start to paddle for a wave, the guy right below looks at me and paddles. I get to my feet and slam down the tail. Right as I got on him I laid the nose back down ( kinda like the space shuttle landing ). Right square on top his back. Ended up being a nice ride even though his hands were sticking out the bottom of my board.

I've heard Israeli tourists create a lot of drag.

Yeah, at the end of the wave, I did some Huntington Hops to milk out some last inches. But I guess the wind kept letting out of his chest.

Oh, sorry off the subject of the post. So a precept from the Father of Modern day surfing : Duke Kahanamoku
" Ride the Wave, not the board ".

When I was younger this guy dropped in on me and he was a neighborhod kid that I had grown up with. I yelled at him something like "What the hell are you doing?" and he kept cruising on so I turned till the nose of my board was right below his butt and then I stepped on the tail of my board poking up into his rear and then turned back down. He kept going so I repeated that maneuver and he kept going so one more time and this time he kicks out. Later I see him paddling toward me all angry but I am surfing so I keep catching waves and he keeps coming after me. Eventually I go in done for the day and he catches up to me at my car and threatens me. I tell him he better just do it because I have to meet some friends in a short time. He backs down and lets me go. I am too old for that crap now and don't think I have the fine board control to do that anymore.

Get to your feet as quickly as possible... that is the best piece of advice I ever got.

From Layne Beachly or Keala Kennely or one of the female surfers "The best surfer is the one who is having the most fun"

From my one and only surf lesson.....

"Don't ever stand between your board and the beach"

"Always stay in control of your board and hold onto it as long as you are able"

"Don't paddle out directly behind someone else"

"Don't paddle too early"


....there must have been more but those have stuck with me....

There is one that I have from lifeguard/lifesaving training...."respect the ocean....she has a way of humbling everyone".....one true mistake and you're dead right?

Big H wrote:"Don't ever stand between your board and the beach"

"Always stay in control of your board and hold onto it as long as you are able"

"Don't paddle out directly behind someone else""

Possibly the three most broken precepts as well - although usually people only break the first one once or twice before realising a face full of board isn't that great

i'll add -

Don't paddle out through the surf zone. If for no other reason, remember that at least 1/2 the surfers dont know how to manoeuvre around you.

Fins edges do not need to be sharp as a knife. Google 'fin cuts' and then buy some sandpaper and dull them down. Esp if you aren't able to manoeuvre around people who aren't following the previous precept

Those guys flying around on short boards. They started surfing before they were teens and probably spent most of their school life surfing and all weekend.

Just because you see a lot of people who are good surfers doesn't mean surfing is easy. See previous.

Being fit, having good balance, being a pro skier or skateboarder or having a spiritual connection with the ocean doesn't give you a shortcut. You still need a longboard.

From every instructor ever...

Paddle! Paddle paddle paddle!


...followed by...

One more stroke and you'd have caught it!

Love this one, Ol' Man: "1) When the wave breaks here, Don't be there, or you going to get drilled"

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