Surfing Waves

Most of the time I am surfing it's all about looking for something to do but when the wave presents lot's of possibilities I sometimes get these Matrix moments. You know where time stops or slows way down and I find myself in some impossible position defying gravity. Then it all goes fast again and I rapidly go back to a more normal position. It often happens on turns off the top of the wave where my body is parallel to the ground. It also happens on big steep hairy takeoffs only then it doesn't seem to defy gravity since I am falling but it is more like defying the odds or something. I was just wondering if I am the only one or do some of you have this happen. I think it is a zone or frame of mind I used to have a lot back in my adrenalin junkie days.

I bet it has something to do with your mind perceiving an iimpact as your travelling AND horizontal so quickens up your responses and slows it down a bit. I'm not good enough yet to get horizontal but I do become massively alert and alive on the drop!

I think my mind is just like saying "Hmmmm this could be dangerous you better get ready for action".

I find that it's the other way around... I take the drop, get ready for a big turn... and then all of a sudden I'm under the water thinking "how did that happen?"

When this happened. I took the drop when I shouldn't have. My first board 3 months in and then I got thrown over the lip.

Now I always have matrix moment when my board nose dive hard.

BaNZ there is a saying "Discretion is the better part of valor". What it all boils down to is learning which waves to throw yourself over the edge and which ones to let go by. I think that comes with experience. Most surfers who ride dangerous waves have that ability to pick which ones (if they didn't they would be dead). I am sorry for your loss