Surfing Waves

Hello all. I am doing an interesting research project for college. The class is cultural anthropology and in it I have a paper to write about a cultural topic. I chose surfing. The twist is that I had to try and interpret what surfing was from the view of someone that has no idea what is going on. In the end I made it something very tribal. Now I must interview surfers and ask them what surfing means to them. I was not anticipating having to actually interview anyone because I am pretty sure the responses will break the illusion. I mean, the only response I expect to hear is that surfing is fun. I am told I may be surprised by what people say.

So that is why I am here. I would like to know, "Why do you surf?" Beyond the obvious fun, is there any other reason you surf? Thank you all who write a response to this question. It will be interesting to read the variety of reasons you guys like surfing.

The main reason I surf is sort of difficult for non surfers to understand but when I surf it is an escape from the rest of the world. When you are surfing there is just you and the waves (and other surfers maybe) on your mind. It's therapeutic, it rests and rejuvenates my mind and it is good exercise too but fun also. It is also thrilling and self rewarding when you accomplish something surfing. I feel good about learning something new or improving on something I already know. When I take off on a steep wave or a bigger wave it is very thrilling. I get an adrenalin boost which makes me feel like I am on top of the world and helps me to perform on the wave. Then there is the dance aspect. Every wave is different and surfing is about reacting to the wave like it was your dance partner. There is great satisfaction to be had from a good dance on the water. Moving in sync with the wave is deeply satisfying to me.

Because I am too short for basketball and too small to play football.

Well waikikichan I think between our two answers we scared everyone else off from answering this. I was tall enough for basketball and almost played in high school but too light to play football but then there was swimming I am curious why others surf but I know for most of the surfers I know they would answer quite similarly to me or you

I don't know, I feel like I can't talk much about what surfing means to me after surfing for only 5-6 months. I will try though. I was borned by the coast, but live far from it for more than 10 years, I guess surfing brought me back some feelings related to it. I actually enjoy it a lot, and as oldmansurfer said it takes you somewhere else, makes you think of nothing despite the surfing itself.
It means enough to me to influence on my life plans, I seriously think of taking a whole different route on my life to make it part of my routine. But that's a whole different and even more personal matter.

I'm not big enough for football either, but might be tall enough for basketball. No interest on it though

It's better than sex.

Thank for the responses so far. I appreciate you guys taking time to help me out. I have asked a few surfers in my area and I am happy to say that they too have given good answers. A bunch like the being apart of nature for a short time. One guy simply enjoys having a skill that he is good at, but at the same time can improve in, like you said oldmansurfer. Another guy said that he likes how a wave is not something that can be controlled, you just ride it for what it is.

Coz it's like free wheeling down a hill, flying on a magic carpet and walking on water all rolled into one! It's a battle and a struggle fuelled by a euphoric pay off, it's a dance with nature, it's cool, it's a healthy pursuit, it's playtime in the ocean, it's dangerous and challenging if you want it to be, it's a struggle for personal betterment, it's hunting a watery nirvana, it's fun with friends, it's a unique set of people that understand, that get it, it's a healthy scrub behind the ears that gets rid of the detritus of the modern world and all it's ills, politics, mechanics and stress. I surf because it's the watery wilderness and you're truly free, you're at one with the power of something much bigger than yourself and it's giving you a free ride.. I surf because when you take that drop, the excitement and reward you feel inside has to be repeated again and again. I surf for the beauty and the sunsets and the girls on the beach. I surf because I can. Work is over, someone's wrung the bell..we're running outside and now it's playtime

Banz mate..I think you're doing it wrong!!

The surf or the sex?

well maybe you can also have her videotape that part too and we can give ............. wait a minute..... on second thought, forgot about it.

Hahaha double Gold^^

There is only 1 reason why people surf. That is to catch and ride waves. The question you should be asking is why do people choose to do that.

KS

Jester wrote:Banz mate..I think you're doing it wrong!!

I think BaNzy is going to be blown away when hi surfing does get better than sex, I'd be worried if It was at the moment. In one of them he wouldn't be jumping off!

Aside from the banter and being better than sex (my other half would end our relationship if she read that) , here are my reasons and I hope this helps your report.

I have a very sports-competitive nature and have pursured a lot of sports to very high levels including competitive swimming and water polo when I was younger. However I had zero interest to try surfing, I hated the cold and saltyness of the sea. Even in the summer, I would just sunbathe on the beach rather than go for a swim. I think the early mornings of getting in to a cold pool from swim trainings when I was younger had psychologically barred me from wanting to get in cold water even since.
It wasn't until my gf got me a surfing lesson for my birthday present that this all changed and it came alive. I managed to stand up and catch a wave on my very first wave and straight away I was hooked. I wanted to know more, I wanted to progress, I wanted to start doing turns.

From then on I pushed myself every weekend- rain, wind and sun, even all through the winter in only a steamer wetsuit I'd brave the sometimes pitch black freezing mornings to drive an hour each way just to try and get the right tide time and aim to recreate that magic feeling of getting that first wave all over again. The problem with suring though is that the better you get, the more it takes to recreate that magic feeling and the bar just keeps raising.

What's kept me at it is that it is probably the most frustrating but rewarding sport i've ever come across. It's a sport where you can feel both entirely helpless and at the mercy of the ocean but yet also entirely in control and on top of the world in the same session.
It's not like any other sport where you can control the environment and can just practice an identical shot, technique or manouever over and over again. The variables in surfing are endless and that just adds to the frustration. On any given day the wave shape, form, power, wind, wind strength, wind direction, swell direction, weather and sand banks will change and all of that will impact upon how your surf will be that day (even from 1 hour to the next) and how your equipment will perform. Some days you will just get beaten up by the waves and nearly drowned for hours to only get 1 or 2 waves. But those 1 or 2 waves could be worth the whole session! You could overcome something new, a bigger wave, a new turn, a shorter board and all of a sudden, you've got that magic like your first wave again..you've recreated that addiction to want it again! Alternatively it could go the other way round- those two waves could be the ones that snap your board in half or nearly drown you and instead of expecting enjoyment, you've just spent about 5 hours driving to and from a beach, racking up km's on your car, throwing money on petrol and just to be frustrated and not improve your surfing at all.

Add to that the new technological advances in surfboard design, contours, materials, fin shapes, configurations, constructions, flex patterns and you have a never ending variable list of trying to find out exactly what works for you.
I imagine all of this would've brought a new life to a lot of old surfers who can now just play around with all of the above and find ways to perhaps substitute weaker areas of their surfing with new equipment.

Bit of a long-winded response but this is what i've seen and had drive me over my short time with the sport

That's interesting. I don't really have time to learn how to use a lot of different equipment and just deal with learning how to use what I allready have although I just ordered another board but it will be similar (6 inches shorter) and I will use it will have thruster fin configuration.

I started surfing to get over a fear of the ocean and to make the most of living by the coast for 3 months.

Now I surf because I love being in the ocean and by the coast. I drive 2hrs each way around once a week sometimes I will leave at 5am surf at 7 do a days work in a cafe at the beach surf again then drive back in the dark. My friends and colleagues think this is crazy but it has brought so much quality and balance to my life for me it's easy.

The feeling of being physically drained is something I like and although I've played many sports nothing takes you to that point like getting battered trying to surf at your limit. Of course the feeling of accomplishment when it goes well is great too, but I tend to experience more of the former than the latter!

Awesome job guys (and girls?). Thanks. Today I present to the class my paper. You have been a big help in giving me a variety to the question of why people surf. And all around the world even. Good stuff. Enjoy the water. I hope to become a surfer myself when I make my way back to California in August. Again, Thank you.

Bobalooch, don't go bobbing away on us now! Bob back soon and tell us how you get on with your story of surfing maybe you can add your own reason soon!!

I will be back, I promise. It won't be until about August or September though. Heading to New York for the summer.