Surfing Waves

Check this video

That is crazy. Whenever it gets overhead. I feel like the longboard becomes a weapon and could seriously injure me if I make a mistake.

This is gently said , these guys are among the best longboarders in the world ( multiple world longboard champs) 99% of longboarders couldn't do it. You are a raw beginner , so no way for you , mostly self deadly.

The original big wave riders all rode longboards but they couldn't surf pipeline with those boards. Newer longboards are more maneuverable. Duke Kahanamoku rode big waves on a solid wood finless board (but not pipeline)

Phil Edwards was the first to ride Pipeline in 1961, Phil was considered the best surfer in the world at that time.
Here is a link to that first ride from Bruce Brown's "Surfing Hollow Days" Phil's ride turned the surfing world around much like Laird's wave at Teahopou.


In 1964 Greg Noll and Ricky Grigg rode Outside Pipe here is the footage from Blue Surfari
very scratch very hard to make out

As for them being modern boards, they were the modern board of the day.

Yeah that's why there are so many longboarders out at pipe

For all those that say Molded Epoxy boards and "Pop Outs" are only for beginners and are not "real boards ", take a close look at what Bonga Perkins is riding. The Blue Swirl and White board is a Southpoint Carl Schaper - Bonga Replica model. Yes , made in the same factory as NSP boards are. Basically he took a stock board out of the box, unwrapped it, waxed it up and scored a 10 point ride at Pipe.


This is the same board that I've been using for over 10 years.

are those longboards with more rocker than regular?

Waikiki you're lookin better and better these days!!!

pm - the board has modern rocker and rails, compared to 50/50 railed, single fin logs in the older videos. The great thing about molded epoxy boards is that you can purchase or rent them anywhere in the world and know the rocker and ride will be the same as the one back home.

Jester - that's my wife. She won the Roxy Waikiki Classic in her age division. ( probably by tuning out my coaching from the beach )

Nice one!! Much respect .. Looks to me like you both won something bro!!

I just picked up one of these southpoints....a 7'6" x 21 1/4" x 2 3/4" ...I'm liking epoxy more and more and this one came up for sale used here for a good price in good nick so I brought it home....I like the shape, esp. the tail...the squash tails are kinda slingshotty in the waves here, just don't need that much help to get in....there is a little flip in the nose which will help in the jacking waves here as well.....it's pink, my girls are learning so it will be theirs for the most part and they are going to LOVE the colour, but I liked the look of it, modern rocker and decent rails in the tail.....going to give it a go myself and might wind up fighting the girls for it! I sold the 7'3" board I had (Jackson single fin) because I'd gotten it used and while I had fun on it, the board was heavy, had a real solid glass job but was too much for my little girls to handle....just can't beat epoxy when it comes to that....I sold it for what I paid for it so no harm....looking forward to the new ride this afternoon....

(⌐■_■)

Rode the new board this afternoon....caught every wave I paddled for which is a good sign...5-7ft faces today, took steeper drops than I could on the eggy 7'3" I just got rid of....has a little weight to it and thankfully isn't corky and felt ok in the wind chop....not great but better than some epoxy boards I've tried....checks enough boxes to be a keeper.....girls will love it.

surf patrol wrote:(⌐■_■)

Surf Patrol you're making a spectacle of yourself

Big H wrote:....checks enough boxes to be a keeper.....girls will love it.

Hahahahahaha.....just looked at this and realised it doesn't read well....MY little girls, ages 8 and 7 in three and four weeks respectively, will love it.

So I've got two epoxy longer boards now....the pink one can hold hands with this one, tolhurst 9'6" surftech with modern rocker and low rails that I am appreciating more every day....so far the biggest I've been out on this is 10ft faces but yes it can definitely handle bigger surf and honestly, I was happy to have it with me out there in the rough water
....9'6" has a way of becoming a whole lot smaller when being tossed around in heavy seas.....