Surfing Waves

I work freelance. So sometimes I'm very poor...

...and sometimes a $10,000 job comes in unexpectedly

So this weekend, I shall be exploring new boards again
It'll be off the rack this time I think, and I have my eye on a small wave groveller (5'11 x 22 x 2 5/8). This board will be the first one in my quiver that's shorter than I am, but will be a big step up in volume compared to my usual stick, so it won't be a drama.

Do I need a new board? No. Will this board make me a better surfer? No.
Do I want a new board? Yes. Will this board be a whole load of laughs on below average days? Yes

Just one?

What about a SubX: http://www.grantmillersurfboards.com.au/boards/SUBX

oh, you want off the rack. Well, off the rack and another board.

Drowning,
good to hear a nice contract rolled in. Your comments about needing and wanting a new board and whether it will improve your surfing, reminds me about something called "GAS" in the rock guitar players' universe. Here's the definition of this term:

GAS = Gear Acquisition Syndrome

Most everyone is afflicted by it every now and then. It's there root cause as to why some guys have five or more Fender Telecasters or seven different amplifiers. This affliction crosses all borders. For example, it is why some home owners' garages contain three Porsches or nine motorcycles. (My own garage once simultaneously held 12 motorcycles, 2 Porsches, and 1 BMW).

So, GAS you have.

Cyclists say the right number of bikes to have is n+1, where n=the number of bikes you currently have (or the wife thinks you have, whichever is the lower)

Oh Gawd ,
It's all aboard
So praise the Lord
The contracts in
So shape the board.
I don't have to save ,
Just ride the wave ,
There must be three swells ,
My wallet swells ,
My excitement swells
And wave count swells
Among the swell.
A photo shoot
Will bring the loot ,
Finally so life's real beaut,
we think you should buy your wife something just as good!

Congrats D(B×3)!

Makes a change from constantly having to snap those beautiful naked chicks eh? Ugh what a grind!! looove the thought of a new board!

Jester wrote:Makes a change from constantly having to snap those beautiful naked chicks eh? Ugh what a grind!!

It's not all beautiful naked chicks! Okay, it is quite often beautiful naked chicks, but in this case it's a very dull commercial shoot, but commercial = $$$ = new surfboards

Right, Saturday morning, 50% deposit for the shoot paid, it's time for GAS and to make sure that the number of boards = n + 1

The ol n+1 bikers theorem! So true!

I used to do competitive downhill mountain biking and often had 3-4 different bikes on the go at once. These days I've substituted my addiction to surfboards but carried over the same theory haha.
While I'm just down to one downhill specific bike now, My biking mates still have 1 for downhill, 1 for enduro/trails and then one for the road.
The theory also extends to their componentry with a never ending list of new parts, gadgets and anything that's the new 'cool'.

Hope u find a sweet new board DBB!

New board!

Went for the 5'10 in the end - the 6'0 option seemed just too much volume.
So 5'10 x 22 1/2 x 2 5/8 quad







Tailpad on, competition leash tied, waxed up, ready to go... and a dog.



First time out will be tomorrow morning when the surf should be suitably small and ripe for ripping

I dunno but the tail on it looks a bit odd.

( and might need a bath )

That's how you should take a photo of a board! Anyone would think you have been practicing.

At least a foot too short for me but I really like the outline.

Ooh, dat's a purty bored!

Bow wow!

Bow wow CHOMP

DBB, is the boards name a challenge to the big sharks or because it represents you in the water?

(I think its a 'bull shark')

I'm guessing two softboxes with main light from the right higher than the left? And where's the fill light on that bow wow? Shocking

Just kidding that's a sweet sweet ride! 2ft too short for me

If only I could surf a board like..... that but I probably would have a hard time just catching a wave with it. It looks like a high performance board. I hope you can match it's beauty with your skills.

First day out and disappointingly the surf was a bit too small and gutless to really give it a good go!

But straight away, it paddles nicely, and catches small waves with ease. Skatey and loose as anything, as intended. I can feel the volume, and the short length (compared to my height) means I need to centre my weight a little lower than I usually do, but that's no bad thing.

One quirk that I really noticed - due to its planing area and larger tail, it's much harder to abort a wave once you're standing. On my 'proper' shortboards, just stand on the tail and pivot around as the wave collapses in front of you. On this one, no... you've caught it now and you're going with it whether you want to to or not

DBB, I was watching this video the other day which is about the McCoy Nugget. Obviously a very different board to yours, but it does have the fat tail. They guy describes how a fat tail board takes off differently than a 'normal' board



(as a warning, the presenter seems to be a hyperactive caffeine addict, but he speaks a lot of sense - you want the short bit from around 2.45).

Good grief, lay off the caffeine dude!

But apart from that... yes, that makes sense, that's exactly how it felt. The board grips the pitching wave and rockets forward, which is fine if you're expecting it

My pop-up is fine, it's not an area that I struggle with... but it might need to get a bit faster!