Surfing Waves

Guys,

there are two kind of remote breaks in my favourite bay (Brandon Bay). I really want to paddle out to surf them but they are like a mile out. That's about twice as far as where the normal break would be. Most times I surf alone. Sometimes I have friends with me but they would defo not sign up for this so I guess I would go on my own.

Question is: do you guys have experience in paddling that far out on your own? What do you think about this?

If you are feeling a need to ask us then definitely don't go out alone. If you do go out with a friend can you swim back in? If you aren't sure you can swim back in without your surfboard don't go out. I currently am tempted to go out to a break that is three fourths of a mile out. Problem is that I only have 30 minutes to surf so the paddle would take too long so I forgo it. If you do go out to far offshore breaks like that make sure you reserve some paddle strength to come back in. It's the total newbie thing to go out and not be able to paddle back in because your arms turned into spagehti on the way in. Perhaps some practice paddling long distances might be good as well as swiming long distances. Go the the pool and see if you can swim a mile with no breaks.

When I was young and led a simple self indulged life I surfed a break that was three fourths of a mile out by myself when it was breaking realy huge. I had no question that I might die but just could not say no to the call of the nearly perfect (but massive) waves. Seriously I don't advise you go surfing alone especially in big waves. I could have swam that distance back in and could have held my breath a long time. I was super fit but even if you are things can happen out of your control. It has to be a risk you are willing to take. In my case dying was an acceptable outcome back then. If you persist in wanting to go way out by yourself consider this from a friend of mine who does that. Make sure your surf leash is in tip top shape and properly applied and carry extra ties (cord) to fix it if it should break. he is still alive ... so far.... If you aren't to the stage where you have a second sense about where the bottom and your board is at all times then it will be more risky for you. Imagine if you injured your arm and had to paddle back with one arm. Could you do that? Also make sure you know the currents so that you can take advantage of that coming back in.

Jozsef wrote:Guys,

there are two kind of remote breaks in my favourite bay (Brandon Bay). I really want to paddle out to surf them but they are like a mile out. That's about twice as far as where the normal break would be. Most times I surf alone. Sometimes I have friends with me but they would defo not sign up for this so I guess I would go on my own.

Question is: do you guys have experience in paddling that far out on your own? What do you think about this?

You talking about Mossies or one of the Seven Hogs?
Seriously if you are thinking a deep water big wave surf, you need to have the full waterman set of skills.
Being able to swim in no matter what, and knowing the currents that are not evident from the shore.

Thinking you can take on something like that, easily, is looking at the potential for fatal failure
I wouldn't do it on my own, I can surf big stuff, I would rather have someone as experienced with me.
Especially if it is my first attempt at something like that.
Do others surf the spot? If so go when they go!
It is also OK to come in if you find you can't handle it.
Good Hawaiian watermen are very happy to see guys choosing not to go out in big surf so they don't have risk themselves in a rescue

Well, Jeff Clark surfed Mavericks in NorCal by himself for a very long time (> 10 yr). It's a good ways to Mavericks. It's not a mile, but the surf is BIG and the water is cold. Four traits facilitated Jeff's success. He was:

1. An accomplished waterman
2. Dedicated to physical training and was mentored to tackle Mavericks
3. A thorough student that observed Mavericks surf for years before attempting to surf it
4. Very talented athletically

So, ask yourself: What is the extent that I possess these traits?

If you KNOW you have sufficient quantities of these traits, then you are ready.

I also paddled out to a small island three fourths of a mile off the coast of Oahu and surfed a break there. I did it twice with a friend. We paced ourselves going out and made sure we still had some paddle power to come back in. It was the only waves we could find. Again I was really fit. I could swim a long time at about 2 miles an hour. I was surprised my friend did ok too. Lots of breaks where I surf break out a half mile or more when the waves are really big. I paddled that distance many times before at a few other breaks but at this break it was deeper water between the shore and the break and no waves to ride in so I had to paddle back in and there was no rip to ride out. Now a mile out I haven't done as far as I know. I think that would be an adventure that would be fun with a friend. Train for it then go. It would make for some stories to tell in the future. If you want to go there I bet there is another surfer somewhere that wants to also. Just be cautious about how you approach it.

I'm lazy, can you find a small outboard boat or even a jetski you can use? But not on your own, still go with someone.

Thanks for the input guys. It's not Mosses, it's right infront if Fermoyle beach, straight out. The water is deep there, I don't think I have to worry about the bottom.

Billie: I'm an excellent swimmer and I do high intensity interval training 3 times a week. I can swim 2 miles no problem (well, uninjured. I keep this in mind.). I'd say I'm fit as hell. As part of the preparation I will paddle through a bay that is 1.8km to see how it goes. For now weather doesn't permit.

Surfers don't really do things like this around here, I don't know why. Apart from one friend I don't know anybody who would be fit for that. He doesn't want to come but offered to stay on shore and call the coast guards if I fleshin' up. :)

Jeff Clark comes to mind a lot. Surfing Maverick's for 15 years on his own.... I don't need to remind myself that I'm not Jeff Clark but it's not Maverick's either.

Dying is not what I want but I'm willing to take risks.

How about this: I get a boat to bring me out there and swim back without the board, I do the 1.8km paddle in the bay, ask fishermen about currents and have my body on the shore. Make sure my gear is tip top. Can we say that I'm somewhat sensible? :)

Oh, and I surf alone all the time anyway. So it's only a question of going out twice as far as normaly.

Sounds like you should be ok and if you aren't well you know the risk. Most of the time I surf alone and some times I go pretty far away from the beach (600 yards) because that is where the waves are. I think the main thing is to reserve some paddle power for coming back in. You are paddling out a distance that is far enough to put off most other surfers and then you will surf and then have to paddle back in so you might want to shorten you surfing session. Yeah it sounds crazy you paddle all that way then just a short surf session but if you think you will surf extra long because you had to paddle so far then you will be extra tired and you have to once again paddle extra far. If you are an average interemediate sufer you probably allready paddle that much every day but not all at once. I take it you are familiar with the conditions and terain, has anyone surfed that break before? My only reservation is that you are asking us about it. Not sure about something? Something specific? Or just double checking to see if we know of someting like the monster fish that start to chase you as you get close to a mile out or something?

A good few months ago I paddled out in bigger surf and 30-35mph offshore wind. The waves broke quite a bit out. By the time I was out there I realized that I have to paddle like a robot even to maintain my position so without any surfing I sarted to paddle back in and paddling I was for about 30-40 min. Zero panic because I knew I was fit for it. But it's something I could have asked before on a forum like this. Any inexperienced dude does this alone and there is a problem.

Since that incident I'm more careful and since most of you are more experienced than I am I thought I ask and see what you come up with. Better be prepared than surprised. This is why I ask. I take the advise seriously and I'm not gonna go out before I make sure I can swim back. As I said I'm fit enough but not experienced in this distance.

I keep you guys posted. If you don't hear from me for weeks then you know what happened. :P

I haven't ever felt like the wind hampered my ability to stay in place but currents do that for sure. I guess if I were picking a day to paddle way the heck out it wouldn't be on a windy day but I go out in strong winds often and it never bothers me. SUPing or kayaking now that's where the wind really hampers your ability to paddle or stay in place but on a surfboard I never notice it unless it's blowing up the face while I am trying to takeoff or it catches my board and send it sailing away when I cutout. 30 to 35 mph???? Holy smokes well I have gone out on days like that and just paddling into the wind is a bummer because it whips spray into your eyes but again other than that it really didn't matter except whenever I was seperated from my board it flew away.