Surfing Waves

In regards to a question by DTC on the subject of Surfboard Fins, I took the liberty to post his question on it's own topic.


my board in question has the ability for thruster-quad- twin keel setups. It is currently set up with 2 quad fins on my front side and 1 keel fin on my backside.

DTC posted " I'm never quite sure what you do if you are surfing an asymetrical board but want to go 'the other way' - obviously you still can but is it just all strange feeling (I've never done asymetrical stuff) "

Asym's are more about the " other way". Your frontside is usually what you're comfortable with. Backside surfing gives most people problems. My setup allows me to not slip out on my backside bottom turn but also allows me to pump crazy on my frontside. Backside surfing is more Static while frontside is more Kinetic ( sorry if those terms aren't scientific correct ). Going the "other way" you're on your Heels. Going the "normal way", you have the ability to put pressure on the Ball of the foot.

Try this test. Stand with your back touching a wall. With your head contacting the wall, take 1 step forward with both feet and with knees straight be ONLY on your heels. ( don't do it in socks on a slippery wood floor ! ) Now see if you can "Grow" - extend your height. Okay, stop and reset.
Now stand facing the wall and with your forehead touching the wall, take 1 step back with both feet. You should be able to stand with both feet firmly on the floor. Now try to "grow" or extend upwards. How did you do that ? Because you could raise up on the Ball of your foot. On the Ball of your foot you can pump and extend to create speed. While on your heels in more like weight pressure. Think of it like a V8 Chevy Camaro SS versus a Nissan Skyline GTR. They're both fast. But one uses Torque and one uses Revs.

Asym fin set-ups allow you to modify/adjust your riding style. For me it allows me to have a controlled backside bottom turn with the added benefit of a easier/looser recovery on my backside cutback.

Waikikikichan as always your explanations are first rate! Japanese surfers must be learning so much from you.
I know even old dogs like me, can understand some stuff better for your posts.

Thanks -interesting. By the 'other way' I was meaning if you set up a board for (say) backside, what would happen when you surfed it frontside. But you explained that well. Actually, makes me think that perhaps its a good thing to set up the board to help backside, since frontside usually sorts itself out. But then I turn right and it doesnt matter anyway...

Sooner or later you have to go "left" , even when you're on a "right" wave. Surfing is 50/50. Those who can only go one way are only surfing 50% of their potential. Imagine a driver that says he only comfortable with right turns. I don't want to be in the car with him.

DTC - If you have a Quad ( and this advice is not for beginners - who shouldn't be on quads anyways ), try putting on a single foil rear fin on one side. Most rears are 50/50 or 60/40. If your surf shop has the full FCS Test Drive, they should have single foils for you to try for free.

And remember, 2 wrongs don't make a right. But 3 rights make a left.

Unfotunately dont have a quad; and after the kerfuffle when I recently bought a 'new' board (a very second hand board) and the discussion over whether I needed THREE boards, I suspect a quad is a long way off... anyway, I doubt I'm up to the level needed.

I'll confess my backside is pretty poor - I tend to turn too hard on the bottom turn (bog the rails). I'm not very good on hard turns after that either - I find I become a real front foot surfer going backside, which is limiting. I havent quite got the knack of turning to open up my body AND keeping enough pressure on my back foot. I think I'm too stiff and old. And lacking technique!

Its my aim for the summer - go left whenever I can.