Not a story for the faint of heart.

It's been over a month since I've been able to go surfing cuz of the holidays and all the rain here. Now, this morning, the 72 hour decontamination period is over. So I got up at 6am this morning, so excited to surf. Get to the beach, wait for my friend. We sit and look at the waves till just after 7am and it's like a fleshin' lake out there. I was so disappointed. God was toying with me.

