by oldmansurfer » Fri Nov 01, 2013 9:55 pm
I have seen dolphin, whales, stingrays, manta rays, sharks various fish. Lots of stories, here's a couple.
I ran into sharks a lot surfing. Where I learned to surf at Kealia beach you could see sharks riding the waves when they were at around 4 to 6 feet (8 to 10 foot faces). On one occasion I was surfing alone at Kealia and a carload of mainlanders arrived and they came out to surf with me. Turns out they came directly from the airport and saw me having a good time and couldn't believe that waves that good could have only one guy out. Anyway the waves were in that range at about 4 to 5 feet where you could see the sharks riding in the waves. I took off on one wave and there was a shark in that wave which seemed to persist riding it longer than most do but I didn't think anything of it and took off anyway. I had a great ride, getting tubed a couple times and paddled back out. One of the mainlanders paddled over to me I thought to congratulate me on such a great ride which it was but instead he asked me a question. "Did that fish get you?" No clue what he was talking about I answered "What?" He said "Did that fish in that wave get you? When you took off it turned and went straight for your feet. I could have sworn it got you." I was astounded and responded "That was a shark." He asked "A baby shark?" I said "No just a small shark. Probably a gray reef shark and they don't grow real big." I decided I had enough surf and went in for the day. I think something about the new guys was attractive to the shark so it was behaving differently.
On another occasion I was out surfing alone and the only other person there was a guy was fishing on the beach. It was a beautiful day and the waves were small but really nice and while I had to wait for sets there was no competition so I caught all the waves I wanted. I was in between sets waiting for waves to come in and I noticed some movement in the water below me. A shark swam directly under my surfboard. The water was so clean I could see it was a white tip shark. I was amazed and thinking it was just as long as my surfboard (7 feet) when I realized my legs were below the board along with the shark. I pulled my legs out and put them over the board and looked around but never saw the shark again. I decided again it was time to go in. I asked the fisherman if he caught sharks there and he said he didn't and asked if I saw one. Yep sure did. I guess maybe that shark was attracted to the fisherman's bait.
I used to surf at a break in Kalapaki and got to know the crew there. They had a routine for shark sightings which seemed odd to me. If someone saw a shark (fin) then they would scream "shark!" and everyone would go in. They would stay on the shoreline for at least 30 minutes after the last time someone saw the shark (fin). This system struck me as particularly odd since sharks rarely had their fins out of the water so not seeing a fin wasn't a good indicator of the absence of sharks. I finally decided to just stay out since it was the only way I would get the waves to myself. I did this same behavior at Wailua and Hanalei and Kalihiwai and anywhere I surfed. I figured if it stayed out of the break like they usually did I wasn't going to worry about them but if I saw sharks close up then I left the water for the day (not 30 minutes) since the shark is behaving abnormally since they usually stay out of the break. I saw sharks frequently at Pakalas and they always seemed to stay out of the break but the turtles would pop out of the water right next to me and scare the crap out of me.
So what is worse.... dying or regretting it for the rest of my life? Obviously I chose not regretting it.