Surfing Waves

Hi all, am new to this site.

I have been trying to learn to surf for a few years - am terrible but love it.

I bit the bullet a while ago and got some coaching (which is great especially when you are a little older) anyway after improving and upping my confidence in the surf, my friend and I went out back in the 4-6ft swell today- and it was just amazing.

I've been out before when it's been big, but spent most of the time terrified and eventually just came back in. This is the first time I've just been comfortable when it's been big (for me it's big) and in awe of the experience.

Now I just want to go back!

Anyone else have that experience when learning and is it pretty standard?

And what do I need to watch out for?

One of the guys I worked with asked me if I thought I could swim back in if I lost my board, and while I think I could - how does one test that theory without risking drowning?

That is a sick feeling and I know exactly what you mean, well done!

To be honest, anyone can swim back. The trick is to swim at a leisurely pace so you don't tire yourself which could make the experience scarier. Another is to swim backwards when a wave comes so you don't get dumped on your head. There can be complicating issues such as rocks or rips but they can generally be avoided as long as you are relaxed and prepared to swim 200m.

I have broken my leash several times. Each time, big surf or small, I have found a way to swim. Usually back stroke and slowly and ducking under the waves that hit me.

Just stay calm, there are surfers around that will help you if you need it.

You got out back you hung around in bigger stuff awesome, did you catch some waves? A bigger day should get your adrenalin pumping.
After a certain size it is said waves are measured in increments of fear, real heart in mouth stuff everyone feels it an finds their own level.
To help your confidence a great tool to add to any surfers experience is the ability to bodysurf, if you can catch a body wave you can save lots of swimming as you are propelled wave speed into the beach.
It is a real skill and you can avoid being dumped and pummeled if you learn how.
Before legropes/leashes at any surf spot 1/3 paddling out after wave 1/3 riding and 1/3 swimming in.
IMO Anyone without adequate swimming skills to get in on any given day shouldn't be out in those conditions.Depending on leashes is a recipe to disaster.

@jaffa1949 - yeah I caught a couple I didn't stay on them for that long though

I can sort of bodysurf, but it doesn't come naturally - might be good to do a couple of ocean swimming sessions, just to see where I'm at. I mean, I'm pretty strong (for a girl) but in terms of swimming in big swell, I really have no idea! I tend to just go to the lap pool.

Hi NickyB, what you are doing is great, catching a couple brilliant
An idea, get couple of buddies where you surf and have a few sessions of body surfing swimming out diving under etc and then swimming onto waves, really is a good way to understand how surf dynamics work.
If you go with similarly skilled friends you can all watch out for each other.
If you can, pick a lifeguarded beach where there is a designated body surfing area, even better!!
Get a set of surf fins and play and then do the same thing without fins and the "sort of" in your body surfing will be gone.
Nothing better than playing around like this with good friends.
You can also use the crucifix position to just get washed to the beach if the are no rocks around, it is a bit washing maschinish but, hey, it gets you to the beach

jaffa1949 wrote:You can also use the crucifix position to just get washed to the beach if the are no rocks around, it is a bit washing maschinish but, hey, it gets you to the beach

Hey Jaffa, may you elaborate what this is?

I have lost count how many times i have lost boards whilst kitesurfing and surfing. You get used to it but you never get rid of that gut wrenching feeling when the board leash goes or your kites get downed and there not gonna relaunch.
My very first wave in costa rica was at playa marbella, we had a boat ride and so had no real idea how big the surf was other than there was a reef behind us that was starting to break and it looked big.
Paddled in and leash came off on my very first wave/wipeout. Ended up on the beach looking at the surf thinking sh4t that's big and i have no choice but to paddle back out as my ride home is the other side of the break!!!

Here's a write up for the spot

Spot/Beach: Marbella

General Info: Fun wave for all types of surfers.
Waves: On the inside it can be barreling like crazy or it can also be light and fun. Once in a whie the outside breaks and gets a BIG wave. It needs a big swell but can blow your mind away.
Difficulty: Beginner to Expert

Was i out of my depth? Oh yes, welcome to costa rica.

Times i didn't lose my board on a little point break.



KS

Lovely little left point there, looks like a long runner!

Now for Rickyroughneck's question;
You just become an arms out ala crucified position and let the white water wash you to shore, you get tumbled and put through a fairly rough water cycle but you end up on the beach.
Being able to bodysurf is the better option better still if you know how to catch and bodysurf from a white water start which you need once you get further inside.
Crucifix wash has problems as technique at places like Sunset beach or Waimea, due to either a longitudinal rip leading to a major rip to sea or in Waimea's case a humougous shore break, but then again if you didn't know you stuff you wouldn't be out!

This might sound obvious but people have a tendency to swim in the ocean with their eyes closed and then lift their head up above the water, which is quite tiring and also disconcerting because you are swimming blind. But opening your eyes under salt water doesnt sting (unlike chlorine). So you can swim normally with open eyes, which makes it much easier and much less stressful (after a while your eyes will sting, but that will be well after you get to land). Of course, keep an eye on the waves coming up behind you, using them to bodysurf or whatever.

You dont always have to head into the beach. In some places, heading across the beach (behind the waves) to a headland might be a better bet eg if there are rips or a big shorebreak. Of course, being dumped by a wave onto rock is not a good idea, but often you can find somewhere a little bit sheltered. Anyway, when you are surfing keep an eye out for potential escape routes - it may be a headland, or maybe a sandbar that is too shallow to surf but the place to go if you lose your board.

If you are getting tired, stop and tread water or float on your back or whatever. Its not a race.

Dont be afraid of asking for help if you do need it. The old guy with the mal is the best bet - as an old guy (more or less) we are much nicer... Plus with the big board we can handle another person.

Lastly - check your leash every time you surf in larger waves. Its probably ok, but ...

jaffa1949 wrote:Lovely little left point there, looks like a long runner!

It was but the right hand point that was on the other side of the bay ran for even further.



KS

You've got a point there , winning so far by two points

I forgot what point I was trying to make, because there are no points here!

Thanks guys - that's all great advice - will definitely try and work on my bodysurfing with some friends. I'm meant to be going for a relaxed swim tomorrow with a friend and my GF- what they have in mind may differ significantly to what I'm now planning