Surfing Waves

Why do most surfers look miserably, grumpy and generally unhappy in the water?


I have noticed this for a long time but it struck home when at my local, Llangennith, there was an early 30s, average-good surfer sat at the line-up. His face set in stone and when I paddled out again, he took a good wave in front of me; a fun ride with a bit of weaving, nothing special but what struck me was that he looked expressionless the whole time. He caught the wave, rode it and kicked out without a single flicker of enjoyment crossing his face.

He is not alone, most surfers in the UK look positively angry when they surf. When most human beings exchange a glance they either nod, smile or otherwise acknowledge each others presence. In the UK there is meagrely a stony stare from most.

Why are surfers/ Brits so miserable?

Really? Thats strange. Here in Ny for the most part I see three types of surfers;
1) The generally happy just having fun type surfers- these make up the majority
2) The young surfers who think that they own the beach and will attempt to claim every wave
3) The middle age/ older guys who mainly come out, socialize, and catch a wave every 15 minutes

That may just be the beach that I surf at however...... I usually see all the same people so I might be just giving a narrow description

I know what you mean, and round here it depends on what beach you're at. If you go out at Maroubra (competitive, serious waves, mostly young males, testosterone city) everyone is grumpy as anything, but head out of town a little bit and it gets much more cheerful.

I think the aggressive competition for waves becomes a bit of a habit for some people

drowningbitbybit wrote:I know what you mean, and round here it depends on what beach you're at. If you go out at Maroubra (competitive, serious waves, mostly young males, testosterone city) everyone is grumpy as anything, but head out of town a little bit and it gets much more cheerful.

I think the aggressive competition for waves becomes a bit of a habit for some people

"I'll hit anybody that says I'm aggressive!"
If you can laugh at yourself in the line up then all is good, too many people think with aggressive testosterone, it's boring and ruins so many people day.

If you ain't having fun you are not surfing

i always smile like a baby when i surf.... nothing's better than share the line up with a couple of friends in a sunny session
Sometimes when the spot's really crowded maybe we lose the "positive mood"...but if you're angry on the line up you better get out and have a beer
surf is pure fun....

I have surfed Llangennith for nearly three decades and I always see happy surfers and groups of happy surfers. I myself am a happy surfer (mostly!). Maybe the one you speak of had something on his mind . . . a session is always good to clear the air and relieve stress . . . or were you in his way when you paddled out looking at him

esonscar wrote:I have surfed Llangennith for nearly three decades and I always see happy surfers and groups of happy surfers. I myself am a happy surfer (mostly!). Maybe the one you speak of had something on his mind . . . a session is always good to clear the air and relieve stress . . . or were you in his way when you paddled out looking at him

lol probably, he didn't even find my repeated drop-ins funny.

Having reflected a bit I think it is an age issue, most older surfers look like they have more fun. Perhaps they have less to prove?

I usually grin stupidly too

Hey RR . . . make a point of surfing only the inside waves at 'gennith for one month solid this summer 2013 . . . only the inside and for only one month be it big or small. You'll get some bonkers experiences and crazy shiz! . . . and on each inside wave you catch (be it from a standing push or an inside bezerk paddle) try and stick your head into the breaking lip for a 'head and shoulders' . . . you'll have a ball and most definitely a month of otherwise missed memories
I mostly line up with longboarders and out paddle them on my 6'2" . . . but often I'll go inside for some mad fast continuous and knackering barrelling action!
Don't think about it just go and do it . . . after all, a change is as good as a rest (sniggers)! . . .

. . . if you don't get fun from this you can slap me with a wet kipper.

Yeah..

here in Qld, in my short experience, I saw that the better the waves, the worst the environment.

Also, I don't know why there are guys who think they r cool if they look like homeless. Those are the one who never smile, never say something, never look at someone.

And you know what? the best feeling ever is when you catch a wave not seeing someone else is on in, and that guy tells you to keep on going. and you just share it.
And then you give the favour back. And the vibe in the lineup it's just perfect.
Once my mate share it with some older guy, both on longs, and they surfed around each other. Now THAT was good surfing.

Not looking like garbage on an vintage board and asking, barking at the world to give you the way.

And speaking about dropping in there 's this:
if I'm a learner and I drop in on you, 95% I didn't see you, and I just made a mistake.
Instead you know what u'r doing. You know u r catching all the waves never stoping a second, never giving a chance to other. Barking if someone is trying to finally catch something, and at the same time dropping on every one else because you know they'll fall or they will let you go.

Everybody pointing out the rules at the beginners, and then being the worst guy in the water.
Yes, never smile, because you can't: you know you don't have an happy life.

If anybody drops in on me I use the ancient and mystical technique of . . . shouting ! (Oi ) . . . This mostly works.

i wish there was a 'like' button on this, some gr8 replies there
im as civil as a dog wit no teeth an real friendly but not that good a surfer so i concentrate al lot wen im on a wave, mite look lke a scowl but it ain't.
Seriously tho somefolk do seem real serious but as previously mentioned, if they ain't havin fun then something is wrong, enjoyment is wat its all about

esonscar wrote:Hey RR . . . make a point of stry and stick your head into the breaking lip for a 'head and shoulders' . . . you'll have a ball and most definitely a month of otherwise missed memories
I mostly line up with longboarders and out paddle them on my 6'2" . . . but often I'll go inside for some mad fast continuous and knackering barrelling action!
Don't think about it just go and do it . . . after all, a change is as good as a rest (sniggers)! . . .

. . . if you don't get fun from this you can slap me with a wet kipper.

This is what it looks like

That is a particularly great way to have fun

jaffa1949 wrote:

esonscar wrote:Hey RR . . . make a point of stry and stick your head into the breaking lip for a 'head and shoulders' . . . you'll have a ball and most definitely a month of otherwise missed memories
I mostly line up with longboarders and out paddle them on my 6'2" . . . but often I'll go inside for some mad fast continuous and knackering barrelling action!
Don't think about it just go and do it . . . after all, a change is as good as a rest (sniggers)! . . .

. . . if you don't get fun from this you can slap me with a wet kipper.

This is what it looks like[attachment removed by esonscar but see above for original]

That is a particularly great way to have fun

^ Hey Jaffa . . . you have an altered reply of mine in your quote of my comment . . either SP or you please rectify your post to be true.

Many thanks in advance.