What got you into surfing...???

[DavyJones]

I am a newbie to surfing and am 29 years old. I know I am young compared to some people on here but I feel like I am in the same boat as the 40+ people.

I was born and raised right next to the ocean (3-4miles) my whole life. But never picked up surfing mainly because of access, cultural and finance issues.

Another reason why I never picked it up is because of a beach day accident when I was about 7-8 years old. I was in waist deep water and some strong white water toppled me. I was struggling to keep my head above the water and felt like I was going to drown and die. Luckily a nice woman was there and helped picked me up. No...it was not my mom and I forget why my parents were not there seeing how young I was at the time and the fact that I was in the ocean.

We have always gone to the ocean many times more after that incident but I was more careful in the water. Never really got to see surfing because our local beach is not known for having good waves. You have to drive 10-15 more miles for the surfing beaches. At that time...these beaches were too far for my family and I.

SO....around 13-14 years old I picked up skateboarding and have been doing it on and off ever since. Now a days its mostly cruising and I gave up doing tricks.

One friend did take me surfing 1 time when I was about 18-19 years old. It took me around 30-40 tries to catch my first wave on his shortboard but felt longer and we were out there the whole day. Lasted around 5 seconds. It felt good but at the same time I did not fall in love with it like I did skateboarding. Skateboarding felt way better. Thats partially due to me not being a strong swimmer at the time, being scared of the ocean (incident) and not having confidence in my looks (physical body...I felt at the time that people who went to the beach should be muscular/fit). I was a skinny, flabby looking kind of guy.

I also picked up snowboarding around 24 years old and have been doing that every winter ever since. I also do jogging and some sports so I am fairly fit.

I decided to pick up surfing now because:

1) snowboarding and skateboarding impacts on my knees and ankles are really wearing me down and I can feel it. I believe surfing to be lower impact as its in the water.
2) I have always wanted to get over that drowning accident from my childhood.
3) I have always wanted to pick it up again when I first did it with my friend. It felt good than and I have always thought about surfing ever since.

Maybe it should still feel good now? Although I do feel old...so seeing younger groms ripping might make me feel out of place.

Although...I do have 2 other advantages that I believe could help me. I have always "looked" young. A lot of people see me and think I am still 22-23 years old. xxxxx...I still get carded for alcohol and cigarettes sometimes. I have always been able to stay and look young...but I don't know how long it will last. Haha =). Also I consider myself to be a quick learner and have good all around hand-eye coordination.

Heres to a KOOK that should of kept doing it after that first wave 10 years ago. Haha...maybe now I wouldn't be calling myself a kook and be a badass local ripper already. Also to getting over past fears givin my circumstances and situation.

Lets hope it isn't too late. Wish me luck and SHAKAS UP to everyone that responds to this post.

[billie_morini]

welcome davy,

where do you surf?

you are not too old. I was 45 when I started. Wish I'd started as kid because things are easier for kids.

I started surfing because I always wanted to learn, lived in California, and needed an encouragement to exercise regularly.

[tony g]

Hello DavyJones,
It's not to late as long as you are persistent and willing to put some time and effort into it. It is worth it and fun even while you are learning.

I started surfing because... One day while fishing from a Pier in Southern California when I was about 7 years old. I saw the surfers catching the waves and sliding down the face of the waves and it looked like the coolest thing I had ever seen. I had fun fishing, but I really wanted to surf and said to myself...that's what I want to do. I got my chance when I was 12 years old and was stoked after my first session.
Good luck to you!

[deegan711]

i started because my body cant take motocross or rugby no more im 24 and have had so many injuries broken neck, back, shoulder, ribs not much ligaments in my knees and many more lol so took up surfing and loved the first time i surfed in newquay even though on my first ever surf session i dislocated my shoulder lol still recovering now as had it pinned and reconstructed hopefully will be back surfing jan/feb time cant wait as its the most fun i have had in ages

[DavyJones]

GREAT replies guys and thanks for sharing your memories and stories.

They mean a lot to me.

Davy

[jaktequila]

Good story OP.

I surfed for the first time when I was 23, in 2010, the year I came to Australia as a student. I quit after a few surfs because it was too hard for me.

A few months later, I turned 24 and a lot of things happened.

I started again and even on a shortboard because of a HEARTBREAK (damn it, this word still haunts me). I could catch a wave, pop up and only go straight but back then it felt so great to get away from everything in life.

A few months later I got a fin chop, right on my right foot. Had a tendon repair operation and couldn't walk for 3 months. No surfing, no parties, no friends no nothing. Extremely depressed. Nearly committed suicide. Surfing was the only I could hold on to.

About a week after I got my cast removed I jumped right into the ocean although I was told that it would take a year to heal. I never went back to see the doctor again. And I have never given up surfing again.

Today I don't smoke or drink anymore and I only go out once in a while. When I come back from my evening shift work I just go to bed early and wake up for a dawn surf every morning.

[stevie]

Great stories guys, i started about 6 months ago at age 43, always wanted to surf but never got round to it.
Had a marriage split, done the heavy drinking bit an eventually started to sober up, get my head straight and get fit.
A mate mentioned surfing on west coast of Ireland so i slipped off and did a couple of lessons, the first wave i caught on my knees using a big sponge board hooked me.
I now feel at peace, really strong, fit and ready for anything, i surf 2/3 times a week and i love the fact that i always have something to look forward to, and i learn somethin every trip.

[jaffa1949]

Congratulations Stevie for sorting your head out and choosing a great option . Better to be in the drink than on the drink.

[surf patrol]

Congratulations Stevie for sorting your head out and choosing a great option . Better to be in the drink than on the drink.

Seconded.
stevie, welcome to Surfing Waves!

[Glide]

"I now feel at peace, really strong, fit and ready for anything, i surf 2/3 times a week and i love the fact that i always have something to look forward to, and i learn somethin every trip."
Damn well put Stevie. I feel the same way after about 55 years of surfing. Stoked. Surfing is a life saver!
Glide

[Rickyroughneck]

No surfing where I lived in the southeast UK. I had heard of surfing but never wanted to; I think I felt that it was for posers.

When I was 14 there was an end of school year activity trip to Devon, one of the activities was surfing. The conditions must have been 1-2ft clean, but simply getting pushed by whitewater was a great feeling!

Surfed for a week in the summer holiday most years until second year of uni (Swansea, chose it for surf), when I started to do it more and continue to do so. Finally improving; starting to surf the wave, than be surfed by the wave.

[stevie]

Sorry for the late reply folks, computer is shagged

cheers for the positive comments folks, i do seem so much more patient an easy going since i began this latest journey in my life, ure right glide, its a life saver. Even my 3 kids (eldest is eight) are benefiting as i have them at the pool at least once a week, i want to give them the opportunity to feel what i feel when out.

In bundoran back in Sept a load of dolphins started jumping an diving about 30m away, chat about being close to nature !!
Stoked is the word

[still-learning]

For me....surfing seemed to be the best form of escapism...where we are not bombarded by society, traffic, Mobile phones etc etc....let me tell you....during my second session, one late afternoon, on a relatively flat day, I was just sitting out back on my own...had a few seals swimming around me, the sunset was setting and living in Cape Town South Africa...the view was wicked!!

Since then...even if the wave is really crappy....i grab my board and paddle out..it keeps me sane and even though i am normally knackered afterwards, i feel alive!

Surfing has changed my life...super stoked!

[stevie]

hey 'still learning' nice one bud, you sound well up for it, i think you'l have to change that name soon tho to 'improving' lol south africa would be such a beautiful place to catch waves, i have never been but that will defo change. dont worry about being knackered, the muscles will soon get used to it, i was the same for my first few months surfing.