Surfing Waves

I love to read and I was just wondering if you knew of any good surfing books you'd recommend? I'm not interested in how to surf books, or spot/place guides, but just pure surf journalism.
I have already read the books by Tom Anderson (Grey skies, green waves/Chasing dean/Riding the magic carpet). Thank you

High Surf by Tim Baker is excellent.

A fun read that includes a lot of travel and some dolphin stories, too:

Kook: What Surfing Taught Me About Love, Life, and Catching the Perfect Wave
by Peter Heller

Another one.

A truly madcapped autobiography that tells the personal story behind the visionary designer, mischievous youth, and national icon:

Stoked!
by Bob McTavish

(Many thanks to Jaffa for giving this book to me as a present)

I get sent review copies from time to time, Tom Anderson's included. A couple of ones I've liked have been The Lost Coast, a book of surf related short stories (fictional) by Drew Kampion. All For a Few Perfect Waves, Miki Dora's biography. Bustin' Down the Door, Rabbit Bartholomew's Biography.
I've just been sent a new book by Kevin Naughton called Trout Rising. I'll let you know what it's like once I've read it.

Thank you very much! I didn't expect so many replies, it's great
Does anybody (UK Based) know where I can get hold of these books? My local Waterstones has a relatively small collection of surf books.

Amazon UK has them.

Funny a Waterstones in Cornwall doesn't stock them (although they'll be able to order them for you); our Waterstones (Isle of Wight) had all those books. We're a surfing area, but not as much as Cornwall is.

What about Book Depository - everyone in Australia uses it, presumably its good for people in the UK as well!

dtc wrote:Book Depository

Seconded - http://www.bookdepository.co.uk (free delivery worldwide)

If anyone's interested, you can get a free sneak preview of Trout Rising by Kevin Naughton from Amazon - tomorrow November 1

Amazon US
Amazon UK

only free on 1st November 2012

I traveled around looking to learn the hidden ways of the world. With true surf stories, and descriptions of wellness routines; this book communicates the knowledge I found.
Book now available on amazon: http://amzn.com/B00ESIAGCW
If you read; please consider reviewing on amazon, or liking book page on facebook. Thank you.
My blog: http://llavealhighway.com/

mike doyle morning glass
greg noll da bull life over edge

The Wave by Susan Casey (not exactly surfing but interesting to surfers)
Pipe Dreams by Kelly Slater
Eddie Would Go by Stuart Holmes Coleman
Surf is Where You Find It by Gerry Lopez
History of Surfing by Matt Warshaw

Surfing Illustrated: A Visual Guide to Wave Riding by John Robinson

Link to Amazon.com
www.amazon.com/Surfing-Illustrated-Visu ... 007147742X

Very good point reviewer

Soul Surfer by Bethany Hamilton Story of youg girl surfer who gets attacked by a Shark and loses arm then goes on to compete as a pro surfer

Big Surf Deep Dives in the Islands by Ricky Grigg Memiors of Ricky Grigg big wave surfer scientist oceanographer

Legends of surfing by Duke Boyd a little bit about a lot of surfers

Surf Science by Tony Butt all about waves

I am reading Waterman: The life and Times of Duke Kahanamoku. It's pretty interesting. While Duke was certainly an exceptional human being it's difficult to extract the myth from reality...on the other hand that's just as well I guess. Other books I have read recently include Raising a Soul Surfer by Bethany Hamiltons mom, One Upon Abundance by Fred Van Dyke, Turning point II by Rusty Miller of interest to me because it has a bit about Kauai John Severson's Surf which is about John and has great photos, Stories of Rell Sunn: Queen of Maklaha, Da Bull Life Over the Edge by Greg Noll, Bunker Sprekles Surfing's Divine Prince of Decadence which is interesting to me because he was a surfer who spent a large amount of time on Kauai and I recall alll these stories about him...they are all true I guess...

Hi,
I've read 60% of the books mentioned.

Some are good, some not so much. What makes a good read is the storytelling skill. Take Shackleton's story: his own account is a pain to read. But if you pick up 'Endurance: Shackleton incredible voyage' by Alfred Lansing is one of the most amazing books you will ever read in your life!

So going back to the surfing topic, surprisingly nodoby has mentioned two titles definitely worth a read:

Stealing the wave - by Andy Martin
and
Man in a grey suit - by Glenn Orgias

The first is pure surfing, the second is very touching. IMO they sit a step or two above all those boring biographies...
Cheers

I am reading "Kook: What Surfing taught me about love life and catching the perfect wave" by Peter Heller. It is so clear to me now that I was never a Kook

Just finished this. Very funny.

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Board-David-C-F ... 905916930/

Now reading this and enjoying it a lot..

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Barbarian-Days- ... 1472151399

All the Tom Anderson books are excellent too, as is Kook.