Please help: What's it like to paddle out to Pipe??

[shayzzee1]

Not planning on doing it...writing a book and would LOVE some help:

When paddling out to Pipeline through the channel do you ever need to duck dive, or is it an easy go? I just need to know what it's like so I can describe my character doing it.

Also if anyone who lives and surfs on the North Shore is interested in helping me with my book please email me: look_bunnies@hotmail.com. I really want to make sure anything I put about surfing there is relevant. I have surfed and do know a lot about the subject, but have never gone out in big waves or the north shore. I would be ever grateful. C

[shayzzee1]

Anyone??? I really need an answer to this.

[danniwave]

hey there depending on what season you go, surfing pipe is one of the heaviest wave in the world, if your sufing winter season usually november to march it can form a wave higher than 9 feet, most sufers get towed out onto a jet ski other surfers paddle out around the break and may require duck dives. the wave breaks usually 75ft away from shore.

heres some info
The Peak
Depending on the swell direction, the peak can peel off into a perfect hollow left (west swell), a fast barreling right (north swell), or both (northwest swell). The right, of course, is known as Backdoor.
Ehukai Beach Park
This kinder wave breaks over a soft sand bar and can be super fun on north and northeast swells.

The Take-Off Zones
Three sections make up the infamous Pipeline reef system. All of which play a role in the many personalities of Pipeline, but it’s the first reef that is the launching pad for surfing’s most hair raising moments. The second and third reefs act more as indicators of major approaching swells or as a pre-emptive entry point for surfers trying to get in before the wave jacks on the first reef.

Third Reef
Resting at some 40 feet of water and 300 yards out, third reef breaks the biggest waves (at least 20 feet) and alerts surfers further inside that a big daddy is on the way. This wave has never been surfed in a contest.

Second Reef
12- 15 foot swells usually foam up and slide over the second reef, giving surfers an “easier” and more sloping entry point and a little time to set up for the tube. These waves then reform over the first reef.

First Reef
This patch of flat lava rock just feet below the surface less than 75 yards out slows the base of open-ocean swells, allowing the walls to stand tall and the lip to leap over like no wave anywhere. The result is a 7 second barrel that grinds and tapers down to a smaller shoulder on perfect west swells.

A True Spectacle
The surf world literally watches from the sand. Photogs, writers, pros, tourists, movie makers, and anyone renting the dozens of giant homes within view of the peak analyze every move made in the water and push the drama to a fever pitch.

Pipeline
Although it’s packed almost every day there’s waves, Pipe is rarely perfect. Usually, it’s windy and shifty but with plenty of giant drops and gaping tubes to be navigated. On those rare perfect days, however, widely spaced west swells roll in and once groomed by light off-shore trade winds result in a surfer’s dream: a clean vertical drop into a wide open tube that spins over the reef and exhausts itself over Ehukai’s soft sand.

Refraction
According to oceanographers, Pipeline’s best waves are the outcome of swell refraction, meaning that the outermost waves ricochet off third reef towards the beach and meet up with the west swells to create an A-frame peak and inside bowl. Just one of these beasts could make your entire winter.

The Ride
Many surfers will tell you, “It’s simple. Just takeoff and pull in.” However, until you have actually experienced a 10 foot wall of water jack straight up and overhead while you balance, hold an edge, and commit a path past the falling lip and over lava rock caves just feet below, don’t believ
e that Pipe is easy.
The Wipeout
It’s not a matter of if you will wipeout but rather when and how bad. So, how do you survive?

No matter when or how you fall, get as far away from your board as possible. There are more injuries from fin and lip lacerations than from reef rash.

Try to land feet first. This helps you penetrate the water and avoid being sucked over the falls. If you do go over the falls, curl into a ball and cover your head with your arms. The reef at Pipe isn’t sharp, but it sure is hard.

If you have a choice, try to avoid being caught under the falling lip. This means that pulling into even the nastiest tube can be safer that straightening out and being crushed by the lip over the shallows.

[billie_morini]

Hmmm...

I guess it is not peculiar to work on a novel for 6 years or more. It does seem peculiar, however, that something as important as book publishing rests with a request for a “few spare minutes.”

Found @ wannasurf:
By Anonymous , 03-11-2006
Need some help - Hi. I am writing a novel (fiction) about a pro surfer on the North Shore. I need someone to help me with some questions that I have to finish my research.

I'm looking for: North Shore Lifeguards, North Shore Surfers (Particularly those who surf Pipe, Alii, Sunset)
Pros (Or anyone who knows the ins and outs of the WCT) and anyone who knows alot about boards (Styles, What types to use where)

I believe I have most of my information correct, as I have researched the topic, and taken from my own experience, but I am still unsure about a few specific things.

I really need this information before my book can be published, so if someone could spare a few minutes, I would appreciate the help.

Please write me back at look_bunnies@hotmail

Thanks

I guess it is not peculiar to seek for information in multiple sources. I do it. But, there is no substitute for direct observation. Besides, who doesn’t like to go to Hawaii?

Found @ swellinfo:
shayzzee Aug 22, 2012, 05:17 PM
Not planning on doing it...writing a book and would LOVE some help:

When paddling out to Pipeline through the channel do you ever need to duck dive, or is it an easy go? I just need to know what it's like so I can describe my character doing it.

Also if anyone who lives and surfs on the North Shore is interested in helping me with my book please email me: look_bunnies@hotmail.com. I really want to make sure anything I put about surfing there is relevant. I have surfed and do know a lot about the subject, but have never gone out in big waves or the north shore. I would be ever grateful. C

I guess it was good enough for Joe Cocker (getting "a little help from my friends", that is)

Found @ self-publisher's guide:
Cheryl 3 months ago
I could use an INEXPENSIVE editor...where do I find one? Email me at: look_bunnies@hotmail.com

[surf patrol]

I shall refer to you from now on as sherlock_morini

[billie_morini]

At your sleuthing service, surf patrol. However, I leave the higher profile cases to Scotland Yard.

[shayzzee1]

wow...thanks everyone for such helpful answers.

It's taken me 7 years to write this book, BECAUSE I am doing RESEARCH and that takes time. (Especially when no one will answer your questions) Lots of authors take years to write books, and since this is only my second one I want to get it right.

I've been to Hawaii many times and I've observed all the major surf spots and talked to many locals. Danniwave gave me some great info above (thanks)...however I knew that stuff already. What I don't know is what I asked. About the channel and duck-diving. I have observed the surfers at Pipeline but was mostly watching them surf. I wish I could go back and watch them paddle out, however that is not an option at this time. That is why I asked for help. Sometimes the smallest things (ie: if there is a shower on a specific beach) can take months to find out. Try writing a book sometime...see what it's like.

I want my book to be authentic so people don't pick out stupid mistakes, things I overlooked. (Like saying he duckdives in the channel if he wouldn't) I've never surfed Pipe so I have to ask these things, unfortunately most of the surfers I've talked to on the North Shore (and in these forums) were jerks. Hmmm...wonder why that is. Surfers bitch if a book about surfing isn't "realistic"...but they wont help someone get it right. Ridiculous.

Thanks again!
C

[billie_morini]

Good luck, C. It was fun to receive the insight & experience provided in your recent post above. Can confirm the need for authenticity. I can also imagine it may be difficult to achieve when writing about something whereby direct experience is not so complete or thorough.

Amusing suggestion to try writing a book sometime. I have been published (books & peer-reviewed journals), but it may have been easier than what you are doing. That's because my subject matter is science- and engineering-related, factual, and based on my own work. You may find it boring.

Again, best of luck & hope someone provides the answer you require.

billie

[billie_morini]

C,
got some an ideas and the 1st one is probably a winner.

1. This web pages shows a page from a surfing instruction book (http://books.google.com/books?id=CkLKIe ... 3F&f=false). It discusses duck diving at Pipeline!
2. This web page is about surfing lessons and they discuss Pipeline:
http://www.surfingcamp.org/Templates/DUCK%20DIVE.htm

You could try to contact them to ask about duck dive. The website offers this contact info:
crystalsouth@hotmail.com