That Break

[Longy+Grom=Sweeto surfer]

Just a week ago my mates and I headed up the coast to escape the crowds and find that break, the one and that we succeeded in. It was around ten in the morning and we dicided to trek around the headland to see what goody's lie in wait. We walked half way around and found ourselves a half decent right hander yet not wally unuff and a few guys out. So we further progreesed around this tankish headland not knowing what was around that next courner. We were about 50 meters from the next little bay and we started to notice loud thumps easilly identified as a solid break around the courner. Not knowing how big or how good it was we started to sprint for the image of the sound, when we got there we relised just what we had heard, 6 foot left handed A frames with the most hideous inside bowl you could sqwiz your eyes on breaking 30 meters in front of rock wich angled 120 degrees. Before i knew it my mates had there wetties on ready for what ever the day brings and i knew it would bring just what we had wanted. We rocked of through the glassy channel glansing at that break. We had made it out the back after closely studying the waves that consitantly roled through. It was shallow at high tide heavy unpreditable sections would come at you like a cheetah on steroids. The first set approached and my mates had told me to start paddling, i knew they wanted to see what happens to me before they deal with it. It peaked I paddled, stood, i had so much speed it had so much wall i saw a little section rissing from sea level i grabbed my rail felt my board being sucked up the wave relising a fall was out of the quistion, with this drive i found my self deep inside a howling 5 foot barrel out of know where came this white fluffy spray brushing up my back and covering my vision i soon found my self in the shoulder of what i only could describe as That wave. As i progressed back out the back i notced the horizon start to fade into darkness. I soon relized that there was no approaching thunder storm it was nothing but an 8 foot bomb coming to show us who's boss noing i was safe i feard for my freind's but they had realised not only that, they were cheering one of my mates on and knew just what he was about to do, the drive he must of had just burst and was put into one line of paddeling. He took of with nothing but a blunt face and stiff legs, straight away he was faced with a wall eger to just collapse. He screamed down the line and was faced with a section in exactly the same place as mine, but the difference whas noticable, the lip of his was about the size of my whole wave. What he soon had to deal with was out of controll, in the next 10 meters the wave dicided to drink the reef dry and he knew it, go or bail either way he would have been a legend, but he went. Fins scraping along the rocks like a cat puring, he'd made it arms up, a smirk as long as the harbour bridge, but the one thing that most shows was the stoke i knew he was feeling and so was I, i was so privelleged to see what i did, it all happend at that break.

[babyboarder89]

did that really happen??!?!?!?!

[Longy+Grom=Sweeto surfer]

Yea why?

[babyboarder89]

thats awesome!

[namino tsume]

where abouts did that happen? England? Hawaii? cali?

[Longy+Grom=Sweeto surfer]

Australia, in NSW.

[namino tsume]

oh, nice dude.

[Longy+Grom=Sweeto surfer]

Im a surfer not a sponger, why dose the writing under my user name say sponger.

[urbanpaddler]

It depends on how many posts you got. By the way sick story, dude!!

[Longy+Grom=Sweeto surfer]

Thanks heaps man