Surfing Waves

I took a bus and rode 7 hours from Porto Alegre where i livr to this beach house i have in front ot a surfable beach. I spent a whole week there without touching a surfboard, just swimming and anjoying. (very nice place, hot water, few people, lots of nature).

Then i talked to a guy who rented boards and rented a 6'5 thruster from him.
i went into the see, wich had 1,5 m hight powerful and fast and short waves...
i just could´t do nothing at all...

the i bought a 7'2 funboard, and after some days of smaller waves i could stand on it. It was very very hard at the begining, but with some tips i could finaly stand up and all...
then i caught a very small wave and ended up hiting and breaking my back fin on the sand...
:(

so i came back home a week arlyer than expected.

But it was great, and more than catching waves i learnt that surf is great because you get to enjoy nature, get away from our crazy world, and hot chicks in bikinis rule!

well, i tried to make it short, and quite made it. I loved surfing, and as soon as i get my board working again i am of to the closest beach to surf again!

I hope that you do not have to travel this far to the nearest beach - what a nightmare

sounds cool mate. i dont know of heaps of places closer to u to surf at, just stick with it!

the closest beaches are one hour and a half from here by car. The good beaches are to the north, and are like 3 hours, witch is much closer that that place i went to...

I wont have trouble getting to nice places for surf...