Surfing Waves

Well, been a while since posting here but I've returned.

I have been surfing on and off for the past few months at Doheny beach, which is a pretty notorious beach for beginners. I've gotten the hang of catching and riding it out (most of the time).

But today I went to San Onofre and checked out Trail 6 which is quite secluded (I was the only person out there). And hHad total difficulty padding out due to being barraged by wave after breaking wave. The waves were a tad bigger than what I was used to and were far more powerful.

Needless to say, I managed to catch only 1 wave and exited. I felt a bit scared as I was the only person there and didn't want to have an accident.

Well, frustration has set in. The waves looked great from the shore, but were hard for me to manage once I was in the water.

I guess I'm looking for some moral support and advice. Shall I continue to barrel through harder conditions as a bit of 'conditioning' or shall I just remain at the mellower beaches and continue practicing my technique.

I think I know the answer, but I'd like to see other board members' input on this...

cheers

Here's a rule of thumb... if you're the only one out there, then it's not a good day to be out there

Sounds like you were trying to surf the unsurfable. Sure, push yourself, but in baby steps, not giant leaps.

This is good in a way, because it teaches you a little respect. I've done exactly the same thing in the past, and been absolutely mullered. Just shrug it off and keep on going. If you want to improve, you are going to have to challenge yourself at some point. Just make that you don't take on too much too soon.

I concur with the other two comments. I started off that way and later pushed on. I tried to surf on a hellish, blown out day with nothing but windswell and chop. Hell, I've even driven to go surf and hopped right back in the car because the surf was just too big for my skill level. No shame in either scenario. Now you recognize bad surf as well as your limits!

Hey . . . Just go surf a wave . . . I't never has to be a death ride to enjoy . . . . 2 to 3 feet with nice six foot faces is awesome . . . why be a hero if you ain’t pro