Surfing Waves

Hi just curious how many of you have taken surfing up at an older age rather than younger, and how you've found your progression and what drew you to it then and not earlier? I'm 41 and took my daughter for a lesson as some bonding time together. We both fell in love with it, though I'm more obsessed than her. That was about 3 yrs ago and I still cant believe it took me so long to try it, especially as I use to scuba dive and skateboard so you'd think surfing might be a natural step to take. My progression is spasmodic as I only hit the water every 2-3 weeks in between downtime due to work injuries. Popping up is no problem but still aiming for more consistent wave face time and not just white wash. I've found it to be frustrating at times but the greatest stress reliever too, not too mention easing my mind re the big biteys out there. What about anyone else?

Im 35 now. Started surfing just over a year ago! I feel I have progressed, but progressed slowly due to not being able to get in the water as much as id like to.
Im not the greatest surfer (quite crap really) but I enjoy it! I new from the start that its not an over night sport, so I never get frustrated! falling off / learning, is all part of the fun!

I'm 42; only only started this year. Took up body-boarding last year, got hooked and thought I'd try surfing this year. Bought a BIC as that was recommended: the only issue I have with it is its a heavy log! Totally hooked now though and a great way to loose those extra pounds. Lucky enough to live in South Devon so go as often as I can. Amazing feeling when I actually manage to stand.

Greg

Looking for inspiration? read 'kook'. Great book about learning to surf at an older age.

Just recieved my copy in the mail Surf doc. Looking forward to reading it

Hi, I'm new here and new to surfing. I'm 34 years old and just started about 2 months ago but haven't been able to go to the beach more than 5 times since I started. I've always been athletic but I know the feeling of being older and starting something new. I feel weaker than I think I should for this sport but I love it though.

I'm 38 (and a half!) and just started learning to surf in April. I've always loved the ocean and watching surfers, but somehow felt it was something only "other people" could do. I've done a lot of sea kayaking and sailing, and some windsurfing in the past, so I'm fairly comfortable in water.

What finally got me out there was a new friend who surfed and invited a bunch of people to come learn one Saturday. I went and immediately was hooked - despite having to be pushed into a wave and only standing for about one second! I started going with him once every week or two through June and finally bought a board (9 ft epoxy).

Lately I feel like I've stalled in my progress, even though I've increased to going once or twice a week for the past two months. I'm having SO much trouble catching waves at all, which obviously makes it hard to practice being on the board. So that's discouraging.

As for how being older is affecting my progress, I think that so far it's helping me. I'm in pretty good physical condition because I exercise a lot, and I think I'm better at knowing how to use my body in a way that doesn't injure it, or knowing when I need to give it more rest or attention. In the past, I was more likely to injure myself exercising and then not handle it right. I also care less what other people think of me or how I look, etc. - and that's a good thing when it comes to learning to surf!

The three ways in which being older may have a negative effect on my progression: 1) I have less freedom to move to a place closer to the beach -- right now it takes me nearly 1.5 hours to get there; 2) I lack friends to surf with (my one surfing friend is leaving the country) because those who might have been interested in the past now have kids, etc., and 3) I'm more concerned about getting hurt because somehow I seemed to have stopped being immortal.

As an example of #2 and #3: Yesterday the conditions were challenging for me (a swell came in) and I think if I'd had a friend with me I'd have been more likely to go for some waves rather than sit back.

Mostly, I wish I'd learned how to surf when I was younger so I'd get to spend more of my life surfing, and also because then I'd already be an awesome surfer now!

Know what you mean about the immortality disappearing. Was watching some kids skateboarding and for a fleeting second considered dusting mine off for some out of water practise..balance etc, but then brain said concrete hurts and its hard to work with broken bones. I also live an hour from an ok beach or 1.5 hrs from an island which has alot more choices depending on conditions.Thought about moving closer but the extra time on the road for work would suck up any extra surftime anyway. Dont get too despondant with progress, i've found you get your stagnant days then you tweak something slightly and it falls into place. I was surfing a lot by myself, other surfers about but no friends, then I discovered a neighbour surfed and have been going out with him and some of his surfing buddies. Even though they shortboard and I'm on a 9'8" so sometimes I have to surf breaks which are better suited to the shortboarders, they will come to smaller breaks for me. But an added bonus is someone who is watching you and can point out any mistakes or things you're doing right. An example was my hand position when popping up. I use to always grab the rails then my friend pointed out too have hands flat on top and I couldnt believe something so small made all the difference. Also I've found sometimes you're happy to surf solo and then there are days where the camaraderie of surfing friends is great. Sometimes I wish I began younger but cant go back in time, so am just stoked that I have discoverd it at any age. Agree you cant care what people think of how you look, fact is the places I surf have a lot of older guys on short and longboards, maybe one in a while I'll get the Stinkeye from someone if I do something wrong, overall they tend to be quite encouraging to me. Another plus for surfing is that its motivated me to try to get fitter and lose weight, which is bonus in all aspects of my life. Only regret is that sleeping in is a thing of the past...Mmmmm more sleep or more time for a morning surf?

started at 46.
progress is a function of how much time you can give it.
For me, I did pretty good for 3 out of 4 Saturdays a month for the first two years.

blueness wrote:Lately I feel like I've stalled in my progress, even though I've increased to going once or twice a week for the past two months. I'm having SO much trouble catching waves at all, which obviously makes it hard to practice being on the board. So that's discouraging.

Although it's natural to be frustrated by lack of progress, realize that acquisition of surfing skills is a kin to evolution in that it occurs in punctuated equilibrium. You'll be stalled for a bit, then all of a sudden something just clicks and bam you make some significant progress only to stall again, so on and so on.

surf doc wrote:Looking for inspiration? read 'kook'. Great book about learning to surf at an older age.

Just ordered this book, never heard of it before

Am 40 years old and started earlier this year. live near bournemouth, and biggest problem is being allowed out from family commitments and very sporadic conditions, and making the two meet!!

my 9 year old has also been for a few lessons, and he loves it, especially as he can stand up when Dad can't. we recently went to Westward Ho! for a camping trip just the two of us, had lesson where i got to stand up, and did bodyboarding. its a great bonding thing.

progress is slow, but i still love it and enjoy it. one day i'll get up and be able to turn, but as you never stop learning, its just time in the water and practice.

got my 8' mini-mal which seems to suit me.

if any other "older newbs" are in the area, drop me a line... safety in numbers for those of us that are a little more cautious!!

Started just this year in July, same month I turned 46.

My wife and I moved 3 blocks from the beach back in December, and after getting lots of overnight visits from relatives who surf (big surprise there...), I decided to give it a go. Our beach break is not the easiest or most consistent place for learning, and this summer in particular has not had the greatest conditions. But I work out of a home office, and can throw the board on my bike rack and run over to the beach and surf for an hour 4 or 5 times a week, so I'm not complaining. In fact I'm hoping to get in enough surf time this fall to go from "worst surfer on the island" to "one of the worst surfers on the island" by next spring

I have taken up a number of physically demanding individual sports since I turned 40, and the only thing I'm finding is that the inevitable injuries happen a little easier and take a bit longer to recover from than they did 20 years ago.

Like right now, nursing a twisted knee from getting worked after trying to abort a really late drop. Last thing I remember hearing before going over the falls was "Don't do it!" . Another learning experience to add to the collection

Hi RonG, welcome to Surfing Waves.

"worst surfer on the island" to "one of the worst surfers on the island" by next spring

Love it.

Hey everyone!!! This is my first post on this site. Seems to be a great site!! I'm a 42yr old mother of 4 and took up surfing last year. Been out a handful of times but love it. My husband has been surfing for 40 years and started when he was 5. All of our kids surf and love it also. Live on the east coast and all of our vacations are now surf trips.....which makes my husband happy!! We have tons of boards but want one of my own. Looking at a 9'4 Yater Surftech 2+1 w/ triple stringer.

RonG wrote:Started just this year in July, same month I turned 46.

My wife and I moved 3 blocks from the beach back in December, and after getting lots of overnight visits from relatives who surf (big surprise there...), I decided to give it a go. Our beach break is not the easiest or most consistent place for learning, and this summer in particular has not had the greatest conditions. But I work out of a home office, and can throw the board on my bike rack and run over to the beach and surf for an hour 4 or 5 times a week, so I'm not complaining. In fact I'm hoping to get in enough surf time this fall to go from "worst surfer on the island" to "one of the worst surfers on the island" by next spring

I have taken up a number of physically demanding individual sports since I turned 40, and the only thing I'm finding is that the inevitable injuries happen a little easier and take a bit longer to recover from than they did 20 years ago.

Like right now, nursing a twisted knee from getting worked after trying to abort a really late drop. Last thing I remember hearing before going over the falls was "Don't do it!" . Another learning experience to add to the collection

LOL!! I went out last October on a sloppy waist high day and tore the ligament in my knee!! I know what you mean!

Hey All, I started to try and surf when I was 38 and soon found out it was the hardest thing I have ever tried, all the people make it look so easy! Everyone thought I was having a mid life crisis! I live in St Augustine, Fl and most the time have waves that my 9' 6" southpoint can work with. I loved reading these posts and I don't feel alone now! I have mastered the break water wave and am having a heck of a time finding the right spot on the off shore waves so I dont get tumbled when I go down the face too late. Every now and then I will catch it and make the turn but those a far and few between. I get to the beach about 4 times a week thank god because I could not live without It! I find my peace there ( a place with no cell phones). Thanks to all for the inspiration and I hope all of us one day become good surfers!

Well I dont feel as lonely anymore either. Great to read everyones posts and relating to them. Absolutely jealous of all you 2+ times a week surfers. Never too late to have fun (just skill in my case )

Late starters need not feel lonely, there many here among us who choose to age disgracefully
To go surfing I have to take out my hearing aids take off my glasses, leave my false teeth in a glass jar by the door.
Then I ready the things that help me surf , my wetsuit, my booties, my anti sunburn hat , my gloves put on my anti burn make up. then surf board and finally

Hope that encourages all you impending geriatrics