Surfing Waves

Say its a relatively flat day, but every 15 minutes or so, several chest-shoulder high close out waves come rolling in. Do most of you jump on the first one of the set (because it might be just 1 rogue wave coming through...don't want to miss the chance) or usually wait for the 2nd or 3rd (so you don't get caught inside and get worked and slammed around trying to get outback through the remaining close out waves)? Also assuming your not dealing with crowds or lineups...just you and a few pals.

Ideal learning situation, good team with you, then take it turns try any of the waves of the set.
Your judgement is right but learn to handle both options.
Sometimes the later waves in a set are cleaner sometimes the first messes up the later ones, just make a call and try get your mates to watch out and support each other.

If it is a regular heavy wave spot then first wave of the set is not as good an option, but then where ever you surf you to be unafraid of the knocks cause no matter who and how good you are you will get them, laugh at them they are your learning experience.

Put fun first in your surfing

If it is a relatively flat day then I would not worry about taking the first wave and then not making it back outside. You can just wait for that set to roll in and then paddle back out if it is to much for you. I think when you are learning If you have to paddle back out through some closeouts that will also help build experience on getting through the white water, and help you to be a better surfer. Try to keep your board with you at all times and not bail. Good Luck!

I only get to surf maybe 3-5 times a year since I live so far inland (Frederick, MD). I really love to surf but I rarely can surf frequently enough to be in adequate cardio condition for the paddling requirements so I generall only make road trips on thigh-to-chest high days. What I dislike most about surfing is the paddling requirements, and being exhausted and out of breath from it. I jog, do some light shoulder weight training at home and coach soccer for my older kids (and play in scrimmage games as much as possible to stay in shape) but there really isn't anything you can do but surf or swim to really make it painless. That really was the reason for my post about wave choice, because many sessions over the years, I've paddled in on the 1st or 2nd close out wave, missed the ride, got caught inside and been pummled around and exhausted from the 5-7 additional close out waves still coming in behind. Half the time I need to ride white water to shore to catch breath, sometimes I "Man up" and force my way outback (then requiring a 5 minute breack to catch breath). Either way its not an enjoyable experience....but quite painful and miserable. Only thing to erase the negativity is catching a few nice rides in a session so I know my 3-4hr drive each way was worthwhile. If I catch 2-3 waves (usually whitewater rides), I consider it a good day and worth the $50 gas and 6-8 hrs roadtime just to spend 1-2 hrs in the water. I live 30 minutes from ski slopes but not nearly as rewarding as surfing and riding a wave.

That is a big drive from Maryland, I googled Fredrick as from Australia I didn't know where it was.
So many of you guys make me realise how lucky I am, being 5minute walk from a really good surf beach that the lowest air temp gets to about 0C and the water about 13cand some of you are so hardy and you keep going. Full Kudos to you all.

I notice there is a river in your town could you improve your paddle stamina by paddling your board in that? ( hopefully not breaking local ordinances or being polluted).

there are exercise programs and a good gym and instructor could put you onto prone aerobic exercises and use light weight and multiple repetitions, say of five minute intervals ( about the time it would take to paddle out.)
The breathlessness is a concern as is the pain, do you smoke or stuff like that Do you have it when you jog?
Any shoulder issues from football etc?
The cardio stuff can be gained in other ways just trying to plug into your real state of health so you can get amongst it and really enjoy

Deleted my original post in this location because it was dumb.

The most effective program i found for paddling (besides, of course, paddling) is crossfit. it'll suck for a month but if you stick it out you'll move like a sea monster. http://www.crossfit.com

i say first wave every time unless it's sizable. duck diving is fun.

When I started surfing a few years ago, I benefited greatly from using 10lb weights in a crawl movement exercise. This was part of a set of exercise which also built the core muscles which is key. It helped build those paddling muscles but as others have mentioned there is no replacement for paddling in real surf to help build the core and the paddle engines.

Try to go for every wave in the set.
ultimate test/training in fitness. it can be possible in chest high surf. just be careful because you will get out of breath, when the set is over, or you cant take any more, stay out until you're breathing normally again.

oh yeah, but remember not to be a jerk. make sure others are cool with you going on another wave. usually you can tell if they don't want you to take that second or third wave in the set because they will make a big scowling face, sort of like a baby about to cry.

My usual problem is that the first wave always looks big and I get a bit scared looking at it so I think I should let it go. Then I wait for the next one and when I'm ready to take off. I see bunch of kooks getting wiped out by the first wave. Now the inside is full of boards and wiped out kooks and it has now become an obstacle course so I decide to pull back. Rinse and repeat for every set.

Something from another relative beginner..if you get caught inside and its all getting a bit much for you, there's something you can do in waves up to about 4ft closeout faces.

Sit up on your board.

This may sound silly but making sure no one is going to clock you from behind, sit up like you would normally for a wave, plonk your bum on the tail of the board lifting the nose out of the water and lean back into the oncoming surge of whitewash. You'll be in the 'stall' position and each knock will only move you a few feet towards shore, its incredibly stable and surprising what you can ride out like this.

Then just turn and paddle back out, it's great for a breather and the sitting up perspective let's you see that you can handle the impact with much less fear than lying flat taking it on the chin.

Just remember to always be looking behind you and not muck up anyone else's ride or endanger them, hope this helps. I've used it loads as my board canNOT be duckdived :lol

The original poster Bub hasn't been on since he posted this way back in 2011 but I guess it is good for all those considering the same problems. I would say this about choosing waves it is an ongoing learning process. Every day may be different from the day before and even during the course of a day the waves change. Your ability to read and respond to what the surf is doing will hopefully improve as you surf more and pay closer attention to what the ocean is doing right then when you are in the water. I have spent thousands of hours surfing and I am still learning.

For all of those reasons it's good to get really familiar with one spot....if you are forever jumping around to different breaks you miss out on the day to day subtleties that occur when going to the same break and lining up with the same markers and learning from those differences in conditions and how it affects the wave.

Big H wrote:For all of those reasons it's good to get really familiar with one spot....if you are forever jumping around to different breaks you miss out on the day to day subtleties that occur when going to the same break and lining up with the same markers and learning from those differences in conditions and how it affects the wave.

This was brought home to me (again) earlier this week; traveled to a new spot to sell a used board (craigslist rendezvous! ) and although nice waves were coming in especially at first, after catching a beauty right away I could never quite get back into just the right position for another of its quality. I blamed it partly on the tide nearing its low point, but judging by the one salty local catching all the beauties, among a handful of less fortunates like myself, I know it had more to do with experience, some of it specific to that beautifully unique, somewhat narrow beach with rocky features at each end as well as in the middle of the bay mouth. He was reading aspects of the arriving sets for which my frame of reference was insufficient . . . And I wasn't patient enough to wait in place for the swell to turn my way: with limited time I got a good workout trying to paddle into better position, with only very limited success.

Happily, at my own most common haunt, I have finally begun to get a better feel for certain areas of the long beach break with semi-rocky points at the ends, on certain tides etc., which with a 'surgical strike' surf schedule is super rewarding when anticipated specifics prove true. I also ask questions of anybody who seems to know more, when I get a decent chance . . . Which isn't all that often especially during full-hooded wetty season when everybody splits to go warm up after struggling out of thick rubber.

Local knowledge...can't beat it.

It can be poached though........next time target the spot and go sit on it when that person takes a wave.....notice if they paddle laterally to get in, if the set u outside or if they paddle it to the wave and spin to get in as well as if the good waves for the day are the less frequent clean ups, standard set waves or 'tweeners and where each break in relation to his choice.