Surfing Waves

I am just an average surfer. Grew us surfing in Hawaii, left at 14 years of age and came back to Hawaii about 2 years ago (now I am 41) after a bad divorce to "start over" and to start surfing again. Everything is fine, I surf about 3 times a week, sometimes more when my son is not in school. I have a long desire to surf big waves. My limits right now are 5 - 7 feet Hawaiian size which is maybe 3-5 feet overhead, anything bigger and I get scared. Truthfully, on 5-7 foot days I am not exactly balls out. I take my time on those days, choose the right waves and overall just be careful. My friends that do surf are not as die hard as me to go bigger etc. so I do not have friends to go out with and test my limits. I have been working my cardio to maybe go out on a 10-12 foot day at Sunset, Rocky Point, Pipeline or many other's I am lucky enough to choose from this winter. Again, I grew up in these Hawaiian waters so I am a pretty good waterman even after being gone for 25 years but I am only to watch from the beach on days over 10'. I want to go out but I truthfully am just scared. Any advice?? Only thing I know is to grow some balls and go but...... again, I get scared on these days and dont know anyone to go out with to tutor me so to speak. You guys that ride the stuff over 10' how did you do it the first time? Did someone with experience go out and show you the ropes? How long was it until you actually took off on something 10' and over? I was at Waimea Bay last week and just saw all kinds of people charging from young teenagers to 60 year old men. I really want to ride bigger waves, to the point I think about it all winter long here but I am scared. Any advice?

Only advice I can give is to try out some longboard skateboarding and bombing some big hills, getting used to the speed and getting used to smacking the ground much harder than you will when surfing anything, but without the risk of drowning.

That is how I got myself from scared shitless at 4ft hawaiian to going out at the double over days. Still scared shitless when I do it, but at least I'm going for it.

But be prepared to spend some time out of the water if you fall, as skateboard falls can be quite serious, especially on the bigger hills. Just be sure to ingest a lot of magnesium so that you don't break any bones.

Not in a position to advise you dude, as our survival instincts kick in at about the same size wave. DOH is about my limit too. But once heard a friend in your position was advised by Paul O'Kane to buy a gun. A proper Rhino-chaser, at least 12' long. He said if you buy one, you'll have to use it or you'll feel like a right plank.

Correct me if im wrong but as I understand it 10' hawaiian equates to around 18-20' faces? My comfort zone also stops at around DOH so I can't give much advise on the really big stuff. However what i will say is to build up gradually. Making a huge leap out of your comfort zone is only going to end badly. You should start by going out on days that are slightly above what you are used to and sooner or later youll be comfortable in those kind of conditions. Then you can take the next step.

There is nothing wrong with admitting that some waves are above your ability.

If you're scared, there's probably a good reason for it IMO. I've never actually ridden a wave I was scared to ride. Some I wasn't sure about, but never straight scared.

I am confident on my ability to ride, just not comfortable taking off on DOH plus. I sometimes see guys paddling out that I know I surf just as well as but this drives me crazy because I think "if they can.... I can" ya know? Maybe when I am totally comfortable on overhead plus, DOH wont be nuthin? Problem is, even in Hawaii, you dont have overhead plus everday to surf on. Plus, as long as I have been surfing I am still not yotally comfortable on overhead plus days. Sure, I paddle out without hesitation but I am careful on late takeoffs, sets coming in behind my wave, how shallow it is etc. Every wave I catch, I always want to go bigger but I just stop at DOH, I dont pull the trigger and it just pisses me off. I need the magic answer, the special technique, the direction or something so I will just f*#kin' go!

You'll get there. Try to think about the waves you were comfortable in say a year ago and see how the compare to what you go out in now. It should give you some perspective. Like i said my Limit is around DOH but I am much more comfortable at that kind of size now than the first time i went out in that size. I don't really know if I would go bigger because it happens so rarely in the UK.

We get as big as you dare here, but still draw the line at DOH. And for good reason.... I know that I couldn't hold my breath in a bath tub while someone punches me in the face for a minute plus, so don't think I'll ever try it in the surf.

One thing I do like about sizey waves though is that it thins the crowds. For me, I'd prefer 4 or 5 good waves at DOH than even one guaranteed 20'. I surf for fun, while I do have friends that love the big stuff, I'm happy to let them have it. I prefer getting a good top turn, snap, cutty, whatever... than what I see most guys doing on the big days, which is, run for their lives!

If you're really determined you'll get there. I reckon some people just have it in them to do it, and I am certain that there is no magic answer. I've even seen lads who surf big waves all the time think better of it occasionally, where something doesn't feel right.

The way I got to where I am surfing though, was to just get out there no matter the size. It's all in your head really. You could start by just going out and not necessarily going for a wave. Just get used to being out there, maybe try to scratch for a few smaller ones and work your way up.

Don't know much more than the hunger for big waves is pretty rare. I don't mean just talking about it, you hear tall tales all the time. But from what I can tell, the guys that do it, do it because they have to, for whatever reason. Hope you get there. Can't wait to read a post from the day you score a 20' face..... Also, can't wait to hear about the day you get eaten by a 20' face. Just hope the former happens before the latter so it doesn't put you off.

I have done most of my surfing between the Outerbanks and Va beach and occassionally we will get days where it will be in the 10' range, this past Saturday being one of them. I spent 30min watching people getting destroyed before I went in; basically trying to come up with a strategy. I never came up with one and paddeled out and took my beating just like everyone else.
The one thing I can say about surfing these rare days is this; you have to be willing to commit 100%, If you second guess while dropping in chances are you're done.

Reckon if you second guess dropping in to a 2' face chances are you're done!

On a 2 footer the only thing that gets hurt is your pride

Have a scar above my right eye that says different. Barely noticeable now, but bled like hell at the time. Thankfully my girlfriend is good at patching me up. The only time I ever seem to hurt myself is in small surf. Probably because I'm not nearly as careful.

Ok so now I have to know what happened?
I have some scars (this is a true story btw) the board I first learned on which was borrowed at the time from a friend of mine who for some stupid reason had grip tape all over the deck. A$$ hole wouldnt let me take it off; but I bought the board and removed it all while I still had some skin left.
Once again, that is a true story.

I think there has been some very solid advice given here. Its great to push your limits and see how far you can go, but that inner fear is nothing more then "You being honest with yourself". Nothing wrong with that, think we all have that voice in our heads from time to time.

vabeach wrote:Ok so now I have to know what happened?
I have some scars (this is a true story btw) the board I first learned on which was borrowed at the time from a friend of mine who for some stupid reason had grip tape all over the deck. A$$ hole wouldnt let me take it off; but I bought the board and removed it all while I still had some skin left.
Once again, that is a true story.

2 foot day, maybe even closer to one foot. Really windy. Hopped off at the end of a wave:

"Where's my board?"

THUD

"Oh there it is. That's gonna be a black eye for sure."
"Who's blood is that?"
"Crap, think I better go in."

Pretty much sums it up.

Surf Hound - what is your actual fear - is it taking a beating if you wipe out - the fear of drowning - the fear that you do not have the skills to ride the wave ???

If its any of those above then surely you can train to over come most of them - except the wipe out bit and hey well its surfing and wiping out is truly as much about surfing as standing up and riding.

So maybe I would suggest training for the bigger waves - pool work - working out holding your breath and general over all pyhsical fitness - speak to a shaper to fix up a board for your ability and size and the break your going to surf........ I'm sure a pipe board will differ from a waimea board.

Then physically when your there with the right equipment - equip your mind with previsiualisation techniques and meditation to calm your self and prepare for the task at hand.

After that I think you will be prepared and with that preperation comes confidence and surfing I believe is all about confidence and being commited.

But I do respect your rational fear of the ocean but it is something that can be overcome with the right preperation.

Good luck - please get back on hear once you start tearing it up at Sunset

Well guys I am getting there. I finally made myself paddle out on a day I normally NEVER went. I got out there and just kinda paddle around staying out of peoples way. I probably did this for 2 hours, until it was time to go in and I decided the best way to get in would be to catch a "smaller one" in so after several half hearted attempts I caught one. Had a great ride in and finished paddling my happy ass to the beach. I was stoked! I was out on a BIG day and caught a small BIG wave in to shore. I felt like I was almost there, I felt like I was ready to go. Next big day came, I paddle out, sat for an hour or so and started going for the smaller non set waves but this time I was REALLY paddling for them. Caught a few this time and went in. Now I am kinda going for the set waves in DOH surf. I have taken a few on the head but to my surprise nothing too bad at this point. My mind had me thinking everything would be much worse but it hasn't. Truthfully, I am starting to get my confidence up out there and my desire to do bigger is deminishing. So far this year I have caught the biggest waves I have ever ridden but also realized its kinda no big deal. 4-6' Hawaiian is still my favorite!