Surfing Waves

Hi all,
I have been surfing for 3 years now and have descided to write an essay about surfing for my university course. I oviously know why I surf but I was wondering if other people surfed for the same reasons as me or for differant ones. It would be very usefull to hear from you about why you surf and what you enjoy about the sport.

Thanks
Spud

Why do you surf, spuddy?

4da women

1) It's fun
2) I love the ocean and being in the water
3) It clears my mind
4) If it's big, I like the challenge and I live for the big steeeeeep drops.
5) It's rewarding, everytime you catch a really good wave, execute a move better than before, or learn a new one it'll make you happy for days.
6) Excercise

Surfing is never really boring because for most of us it's almost impossible to master; there is always more you can learn.
If rides were always long and perfect and surfing was easy then maybe it would get boring. In reality it's not, so you are always trying to find a wave better than the last, that's the addiction.

There aren't many sports I can think of where you can have so much fun, on your own, consistently through the years.

I just love how surfing reflects life in so many ways and makes me see things from a different perspective. A few things I have jotted down in the journal previously re surfing -

1) It makes me want to better myself. Each wave is an opportunity to do better than the last. Each moment in life is like that too.
2) Men. A wave dumps me. What do I do? I get up, clear the water from my nose and try again. I can't guarantee I am not going to get dumped again but it doesn't stop me trying those waves, time and time again. And if one comes along and it isn't quite right, well, there will always be others.
3) Confidence. Similar to the above. I can not control the ocean or mother nature and surfing makes me realise I am fully at her mercy. So I must learn to be confident enough to put myself out there knowing I could get fall. I can not control mother nature in the same way I can not control most things in life so I must learn to accept this and deal with it the best I can at the time. Being in the big wide ocean also reminds me how insignificant I am in the whole scheme of things and there are many more important things in life than me.
4) Being at one with nature is an amazing feeling, for me it is spiritual. It makes a nice break from the fast-paced technological and modern world we live in. I don't believe humans were designed to be in buildings and behind computers and surfing enables me to reconnect with nature and truly appreciate it
5) The sea water cures ailments physically and emotionally. It can both clear up a cut and clear the mind.
6) Surfing reminds me constantly of how I want to live my life. With the sun always shining, even when it's not. The air is always warm even when it's cold. In other words to always see the positive and live by that philosophy. It reminds me that life is a journey and just like a wave I need to ride it until there is nothing left. I may get dumped, I may get bruised and I may make mistakes but at the end of the day I know I will emerge feeling stronger than ever before.
7) It is fun and reminds me of how little in life I actually need to be happy.

Bit long-winded and sugary but just my thoughts. Surfing has helped me out a lot in recent times. And that is the reason I surf and know I always will.