Surf Legends

[phillwilson]

I just wanted to start a thread where we can tell stories of surfers who have influenced us on our paths.

im not necessarily talking famous surfers, im talking people we have met .........the guys in our local lineups who we love or hate but remember.


I will kick this off with "the multicoloured surfer".........a guy of indeterminate late middle age who I met longboarding in f***y during a large swell.

he came up and opened with "nt seen you around here before" .....to my mind a bit of a coded local warning...

but then he smiled a really big smile and held out his hand for a shake !!

nothing much, but this simple act of kindness made me feel it was ok to go in the water at a new spot and share the waves with the older guys who had obviously been there for much longer.

cheers dude...you made my day and made f***y one of my fav places

sorry decided to keep the spot on the low down!