Surfing Waves

Hello everyone
First off, let me introduce myself... my names Neil. I just joined the forum. At the age of thirty I feel like a little kid all over again, the reason... Surfing. I started surfing around 6 months ago, and at the risk of sounding cliche I was hooked from the first day I stood up on that first wave ... hooked. I've been surfing about 3-4 hours a day 5 days a week for 6 months. I've been an athlete all my life (basketball, soccer, downhill cycling) but surfing is by far the hardest sport I've done for the obvious reasons but also for the fact that since a young age I've been terrified of the ocean especially of the deep water. This really sucks because my father and uncles were professional divers, real watermen. Either way at the age of 30 I decided I wanted to overcome this fear of the deep... I am fascinated by the ocean and have a great respect for it and surfing has helped me break that barrier. I love surfing, I've become a student of the sport/way of life so I am always looking to learn more and more. Anyways, If it's up to me, I'll surf as long as my body will let me or as long as the ocean lets me.

Which brings me to the subject of this thread... Spooked. It was about a week ago, I was out in the water at PB in the early afternoon, it was a strange day, real low tide, gray and rainy. I think the waves were around 3-4'. But out of nowhere came this bigger set, I think it could have been 5'. As I saw the set loom I started to paddle out when I notice this first wave was bigger than anything I've paddle out to. I started to paddle up this thing and just as I made my way to the top of the wave I saw this thing was coming down on me, I was caught on the top and I found myself going backwards looking up at the sky... $hit!!! Went under, ok, been here before maybe not as big, came up and this is where the term "caught inside" comes from I guess... I wasn't tired from fight the set but I just freaked out losing my breath etc, i've never been beat up so bad before, and that feeling of hopelessness sucked! I am not the best swimmer but I can swim well enough to save my life... trying to swim in white water sucks, there is no density at all. Either way, luckily after getting hit by about 4 waves, leach pulling, I finally got to my board and rode the white water in to shore, where I proceeded to throw up what looked like a gallon of sea water with my hands on my knees... serious reality check!

In the last week I've been out a bunch of time and have just been getting hammered, just beat up. The waves have been great 3-4' and usually I would charge those waves, but i've been hesitating and just getting rocked. And now every-time I go under I kinda freak out and I hate that feeling, I absolutely hate it. I also tend to hesitate on take offs and paddling out etc. I really want to get over the fear.

I am sure every surfer has their own story like this or much much worse. But what I want to know is how you guy beat the fear and went back in. Any help would be appreciated and moral support. Sorry for the long thread.

Thanks
cheers to all
Neil

Welcome to the forum! I'm also new here; but I understand your spooked encounter. I think alot of us if not all of us have been taken by a wave bigger than expected and knocked under. How to get over it? Well keep on surfing... basically keep paddling out into the blue and catch waves. What might help is change your spot for a few days; perhaps go out to a spot that does not break as big.. kinda re-introduce yourself to it. But I think the biggest rule I follow that I taught my wife and now my kids to also follow will really help. If you wipe out no matter what do not make that your last wave of the day. Always ride in on a wave after a wipe out...I apply this also to snowboarding... never end a session on a bad run. This way when the day is over your not going to think of man those fish tacos and salt water did not mix well with the sand; but man I had a bad fall; but I at least ended the day with a ride.

Besides man.. your 30 and old... I mean at the young age of 29 I could never imagine being way up there at 30 ! HA! Keep up the habit... cause surfing is a habit.

Also something else to do is beach surf.. watch others surf... we all have bad falls; but watching others suffer (at least for me in my twisted mind) always makes me go.. "xxxxx if they can do it.. why the hell can't I?"

Okay I now sound like... --->

SeanGuna wrote:Welcome to the forum! I'm also new here; but I understand your spooked encounter. I think alot of us if not all of us have been taken by a wave bigger than expected and knocked under. How to get over it? Well keep on surfing... basically keep paddling out into the blue and catch waves. What might help is change your spot for a few days; perhaps go out to a spot that does not break as big.. kinda re-introduce yourself to it. But I think the biggest rule I follow that I taught my wife and now my kids to also follow will really help. If you wipe out no matter what do not make that your last wave of the day. Always ride in on a wave after a wipe out...I apply this also to snowboarding... never end a session on a bad run. This way when the day is over your not going to think of man those fish tacos and salt water did not mix well with the sand; but man I had a bad fall; but I at least ended the day with a ride.

Besides man.. your 30 and old... I mean at the young age of 29 I could never imagine being way up there at 30 ! HA! Keep up the habit... cause surfing is a habit.

Also something else to do is beach surf.. watch others surf... we all have bad falls; but watching others suffer (at least for me in my twisted mind) always makes me go.. "xxxxx if they can do it.. why the hell can't I?"

Okay I now sound like... --->

Thanks for the help man. You are right about the changing the spots thing. I was actually thinking about doing that tomorrow when I go out. I just might do it now. Also, even after last weeks wipe out, i made it a point not to leave on that wipe out. I surfed a few more waves afterwards, in fact I surfed one of the best waves i've ever taken after that. But, apparently I couldn't shack the wipe out because I thought about it the next day out. Not going to stop this habit, it's like a freaking drug.

thanks again for the advise

Neil

SeanGuna wrote: If you wipe out no matter what do not make that your last wave of the day.

...unless you snap your board

Hey, it happens, dont get too hung up on it. Go out and play for an hour in the whitewater or find somewhere with little kneehigh waves. Changing spots is a good plan too.

There's no alternative but to just get out there.

I think everyone has been there. I was in Bali a few years ago and the waves were just massive. I was struggling to just keep out of the way as big set after big set came through. Finally one came and I couldn't get out of the way in time and I got crushed and smashed up on the reef. I limped in and felt like a retard but the next day I went out again. Just keep surfing and you'll get over those crushing moments of terror - until the next one comes.

very similar experience about a year ago... took ages to get over it, and still occassionally just before a big one hits i get a little nervous.

just surf smaller waves for a while until you feel a bit more confident. eventually frustration with small waves will push you back out in the bigger stuff.

2 things that help tho - open your eyes if you don't do this already (never feels quite as bad when you are watching bubbles).
- try counting when you are under, unless you are in really big stuff you aren't down there all that long.

I try to remain calm in order to preserve my oxygen. Go with the flow until your lungs burn, and then panic.
my friend, a total beginner, went out at Scar Reef, in Bali, when it was about 6-7ft and got licked. He made it back to the boat somehow, and his back was ripped to shreds. He told me about breathing in water with his thoughts of dying; that experience scared the sh** of out me.

I don't think there is a competent surfer out there, who's gotten to where he/she is without quite a bit of suffering. It comes with the territory if you want to surf decent waves you are going to get caught inside, smashed and owned by the ocean, fearing for your life.

Hey but that's half the fun (usually in retropsect though )The only remedy against this is experience and that comes through more floggings.

Just like other sports it's 'No pain, no gain' but with surfing the 'pain' can be considerable

If it's too much at once then pace yourself gradually. Don't try out too many spots though, find a place to call home and learn it so you are comfortable when it gets big. Big is always scary if you don't know the break well. And as I'm saying a lot lately. Get down to the pool and burn some laps!

Hey guys
I surfed for 2 days this weekend and the good news is I took a lot of what you guys said into consideration and thank you so much. The first day I changed spots to build up my confidence in some smaller waves and yesterday I went back to my original/home break (where I wiped out). And everything went well, I wiped out a few times but I kept my calm under water and things were fine. So again, thanks for all the advice I totally appreciate it. Going back again on tuesday... can't wait!

Neil

wahts up guys, arguam bay, welcome to surfing!

i was hooked first time i rode a wave. Where i learned to surf at was a reef break with very shallow reef. didn't realaize how shallow. i figured oo waves are easy to catch, caught a huge one felt like i couldn't get on the board fast enough so i tosed it out to the side but it hit the wave and hte fin came right back and caught me in the wrist. it was bleeding and its a scar now about 1 inch down. but i kept on surfing that day haha. IT still plays back in my mind if i feel like i'm loosing control. Nother time was when i wen to paddle for a wave and i realized i wouln't make it so i sat up but then it started to pull me back with the wave, i free fell for about 3 secconds thinking i was gona land on my board(which was behind me) and stab my spine lol. In reality when you think about it, its not even that scary, i watch the video and i'm thinking I got scared because of that?!??

I keep on telling myself its just water psh. Once you tread big waves, your idea changes a little bit, you then slowly feel less afraid of bigger waves and such. You know ur own limits and then feel like ur in a new comfort zone
cause there jus a point when a big wave is just another big wave ya know? they all act the same ecept they pack differnt power punches if ur not carefull. If you ever get tossed just relax and remain calm, you won't drown, you've got a frigin big ass boat attached to your foot that will float you! keep telling urself taht and you can surf in a hurricane!(dont do it though)

If the wave is getting really really high,just get to your feet as fast as you can, this way you will just ride whitewash

HA! If you watched any big wave movies (i.e. riding giants, step into liquid, etc, etc) I always enjoy the fact that when they are riding in the wave it looks as if they are escaping the danger first and then they "have fun" on the wave.

Neil glad our comments helped and hope it helps ignore the original spook. Keep charging for waves and I hope any lurkers out there follow the same advice we all offered!

when you get crushed by a wave, stay down try to relax and save oxygen and go with the flow as you are getting smashed and thrown about by the wave. Then when it calms down, make your way up.