Surfing Waves

I just wanted to get some input on atiitudes in the lineup.

I've been surfing for about 3 years now and started late (40yrs old) so I'm not the best but I do OK... Anyway yesterday the swell was kicking up pretty good but you really had to be in the right place at the rights time. As it goes sometimes, I was not in the right place at the right time most of the day and being as the waves were pumping pretty good it was crowded.

Here's my dilema, there was about 6 waves that I was in perfect position for where I was sitting. As soon as the peak started heading my way, every head in the water paddled over and most of the time, they ended up being in the better postion for the wave. Now, if I go ahead and drop in, I'm the asshole who dropped in when someone else had the inside. Like I said, I'm not the best and most times the shredders who have been surfing since they were 3 pop-up quicker than me and are heading down the line before I'm to my feet.

I had a buddy who said something to this guy that kept paddling over and snaking the prime waves. The guy(and everyone else) seemed to think that there is no problem with it. The attitude seems to be that if you were a better surfer, you'd have the peak and be dropping in first.

So is the trick just to be that selfish surfer that paddles over to the peak no matter who's there and to try for every wave? Do you just go ahead and drop in on the guy who paddled over right next to you from 50 yards down when the peak is coming your way? I've heard it said that surfing is a selfish sport but where do you draw the line? I don't have that super agressive attitude so most times I back out and my wave count suffers for it.

Get more agressive. Your there to catch waves. You make surfibg sound like quite a passive sport "sitting out back waiting for waves to come to you" whereas some others aren't so passive they work hard to catch waves, all that paddling about. Truth is that you have to be either as fit as everyone else or fitter, or that there is noone else (ie your on the break by yourself). Getting fitter than most other people isn't that difficult really since most people are basically lazy. You can do it, just get fitter so you can compete.

Ged wrote:Get more agressive. Truth is that you have to be either as fit as everyone else or fitter, or that there is noone else (ie your on the break by yourself). Getting fitter than most other people isn't that difficult really since most people are basically lazy. You can do it, just get fitter so you can compete.

Very true! I'm mid 40's . Thank God for P90X Just went out for the first times in many many years.. WHAT A BLAST! 1st day was shaky but day two was fun. I also had a fish day two. I surfed for about 5 hours day one and 3 hours day two. Went home with new board and suit, YES!
Working out saved my butt some pain...
Because of crowds on point breaks I look for surf at beach breaks. The surfers are more spread out. You can find your own line of surfers to compete with. That's what I used to do and did, I had a great time. Sure the rides may not be long but a bunch of short rides are fun too. More fun to try moves out on short rides that way the wave is not as big a loss if you eat it. , It doesn't take long to know who the better guys are out there. You can tell when the really good guys want a wave too LOL! So I let that one go and compete with the others after a few of the real good guys are paddling back out. Everyone got along fine.
If I were out matched by to many really good surfers that would not be any fun just watching them. I can get that same result on the shore I will find my place out there somewhere and it will be fun . I guess that means I already know how to read my place out there

But hey , closest to the peak right. GOING LEFT!

PS. If a guy just paddled 50 yards and beat you out of a wave. Dont mess with that guy

It always seems like it's every man for himself where I surf, so i just try not to get too near anyone and catch as many waves as I can.

Well I went out at Carlsbad yesterday extra early and it was consistently head high with the occasional bomber sets. We got there extra early so I was able to get a couple confidence waves in before the crowds showed up. You know, the whole thing seems to boil down to confidence. I was able to paddle over into the pack and catch my limit yesterday but on days where I'm just not feeling confident, I tend to back out and stay to the shoulder.

Anyway, I do think fitness is part of the issue for me but mainly it's having the confidence to KNOW I can catch the wave, and make the drop like everyone else in the pack...

klhoskins wrote:Well I went out at Carlsbad yesterday extra early and it was consistently head high with the occasional bomber sets. We got there extra early so I was able to get a couple confidence waves in before the crowds showed up. You know, the whole thing seems to boil down to confidence. I was able to paddle over into the pack and catch my limit yesterday but on days where I'm just not feeling confident, I tend to back out and stay to the shoulder.

Anyway, I do think fitness is part of the issue for me but mainly it's having the confidence to KNOW I can catch the wave, and make the drop like everyone else in the pack...

Yeah metoo. Confidence is everything prettymuch

I agree with the above; but if I see someone who is new on a board and is not confident I will clear out to let him or her ride a wave or two. We were all groms at one time and learning so I like to help a little.. not to mention I rather a newb be patient and not rush on a wave then end up crashing his board into one of mine and dinging us both up due to not knowing surf etiquette and charging on my wave.

"I will clear out to let him or her ride a wave or two"

I'm right there with you. Also, if I've just had a couple rides and see someone paddling for something I will always let them take it whether I'm in a better position on the wave or not.

The issue and my main point of the thread was that most of the people I run accross don't think to let someone else take a wave. And like I said, they will paddle over to snake the position even if you are already sitting at the peak.

I got back from an low tide session just now and was joking with some guys waiting for a set. We have some Canadian tourist in our area just sitting on waves doing nothing but taking up space. The three of us spot a wave coming and get into position then the Canadian kids start paddling into our wave and all three of us hold off to see what they got. Not one of them caught the wave; but when they came back we just joked with them of "pay it forward". We don't know if they understood the English (French Canadians); but they at least got to enjoy the wave even though they did not get up.