Surfing Waves

ive always loved trying to surf but i suck but after seeing this pic, i get it. i mean i understand why some people call it a drug. dont know how to explain it, only thing that comes to mind is, beautiful/perfect/godly.. idk

i want to do it. ride the edge, the rush, the thrill... think ive lost my mind and im happy about it

http://www.xarj.net/wp-content/uploads/ ... rfing5.jpg

most people get jaded to surfing just like anything else. but dont let me discourage you, it is a lot of fun. just dont get any delusions. there isnt really a surfer lifestyle, fashion, or speech, unless youre a wannabe or a 'bro'

nauc wrote:ive always loved trying to surf but i suck but after seeing this pic, i get it. i mean i understand why some people call it a drug. dont know how to explain it, only thing that comes to mind is, beautiful/perfect/godly.. idk

i want to do it. ride the edge, the rush, the thrill... think ive lost my mind and im happy about it

Beautiful - Until you get your face drilled into the sand on an inside barrel!
Perfect – Except for all those mushy blown out crappy days.
Godly - Yup, seen him a few times too during wipe outs !

Ride the edge ? - I call that over the falls !

The thrill and the rush are there though .....

and most importantly .....

the stoke is to be found in any good session - no matter how big the waves and it is this which departs the need for sanity for the next session, preventing total loss of ones mind to the surf.

I have been surfing for 19 years, and have absolutely no desire to go anywhere near anything like that. My goal in surfing is to still be doing it when I'm 65!!

esonscar wrote:

Beautiful - Until you get your face drilled into the sand on an inside barrel!
Perfect – Except for all those mushy blown out crappy days.
Godly - Yup, seen him a few times too during wipe outs !

Ride the edge ? - I call that over the falls !

The thrill and the rush are there though .....

and most importantly .....

the stoke is to be found in any good session - no matter how big the waves and it is this which departs the need for sanity for the next session, preventing total loss of ones mind to the surf.

And the group pessimist shows themselves

On a more positive note, that picture (now my new wallpaper) is what I picture when I think of surfing. One person, with enough cajones to risk it all for that one perfect ride.

Awesome

One person, with enough cajones to risk it all for that one perfect ride.

That's how I feel when I see this........

T.I. wrote:

esonscar wrote:
and most importantly .....

the stoke is to be found in any good session - no matter how big the waves and it is this which departs the need for sanity for the next session, preventing total loss of ones mind to the surf.

And the group pessimist shows themselves

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pessimism states:

" Pessimism, from the Latin pessimus (worst), is a state of mind which negatively colors the perception of life, especially with regard to future events. "

So ........

' the stoke is to be found in any good session - no matter how big the waves and it is this which departs the need for sanity for the next session, preventing total loss of ones mind to the surf. '

is in no way pessimismistic.

Peace out and surf on.

No...but your previous five statements were the exact definition of pessimism. You're just a walking contradiction

I thought my post was VERY OPTIMISTIC!!

esonscar is being realistic. surfing isnt perfect. there are plenty of times when i go surfing and end up wishing i just stayed home and played with my dog. and its no more spiritual than any other hobby. i actually feel that surfing and hiking and kayaking or whatever are, but thats because i like nature. some people dont. i cant stand surfers who think theyre better than everyone else, and it is extremely arrogant for someone to think that they are better because they surf, or to think that their hobby of surfing is better than other peoples hobbies, or more soleful or whatever. thats why i hate the term sole surfing. im going to go sole hiking tomorrow. then the next day ill go sole fishing and sole bike riding. shut the f up. I also cant stand bros, but i will use this term to communicate with the bros on here. i dont care what your "stoke" is. i wouldnt say your "stoke" of surfing is better than someone elses "stoke" for knitting or jogging or whatever the hell gets their jollies on so long as its not self destructive or bothering anyone else.. its just different

Dang! Somebody need to pull the bug out of their ass!

whats up bro!!! nah bro its all cool im totally stoked!!

hawaiiSUCKSexceptsurf wrote:i wouldnt say your "stoke" of surfing is better than someone elses "stoke" for knitting

I'm pretty sure there's no such thing as a "stoke" for knitting, unless you happen to be riding in a barrel while doing it.

"Brah, did you see that backside Kitchener stitch I did? That was totally EPIC!"

why not? my grandma is pretty damn stoked about basket weaving and i dare you to convince her otherwise.

Jeezus - I have to confess my gran and mom taught me to knit when I was a nipper !
The result of my first joined up rows ? TOTAL STOKE !

Maybe we start a knitting thread now !

hawaiiSUCKSexceptsurf wrote:esonscar is being realistic. surfing isnt perfect. there are plenty of times when i go surfing and end up wishing i just stayed home and played with my dog. and its no more spiritual than any other hobby. i actually feel that surfing and hiking and kayaking or whatever are, but thats because i like nature. some people dont. i cant stand surfers who think theyre better than everyone else, and it is extremely arrogant for someone to think that they are better because they surf, or to think that their hobby of surfing is better than other peoples hobbies, or more soleful or whatever. thats why i hate the term sole surfing. im going to go sole hiking tomorrow. then the next day ill go sole fishing and sole bike riding. shut the f up. I also cant stand bros, but i will use this term to communicate with the bros on here. i dont care what your "stoke" is. i wouldnt say your "stoke" of surfing is better than someone elses "stoke" for knitting or jogging or whatever the hell gets their jollies on so long as its not self destructive or bothering anyone else.. its just different

I agree with you completely. The "stoke" is where you find it.

What exactly is stoked? I read the book "a year in the life of Occy." He mentions stoke quite alot and from what I gathered from this its the equivalent of "stoking a fire." If you are stoked you feel a warm glow inside, ie your happy. If I'm wrong about this interpretation please correct me.

Well, for me it's a feeling of total well being and happiness. Buzzy, happy, full of energy (but probably nackered). All the bad stuff that's going on elsewhere, is in a different sphere of existence.

Jonah_Fro wrote:Well, for me it's a feeling of total well being and happiness. Buzzy, happy, full of energy (but probably nackered). All the bad stuff that's going on elsewhere, is in a different sphere of existence.

Sounds like exactly how you feel having climbed something hard. Thing is you get this feeling that you've done someting special that only you and your mate (whoever climbed it with you) have expirienced, and obviously it is only you that has expirienced that particular climb. Other people have climbed the same route and probarbly had similar feelings but you know that the vast majority of people will never do that particular route so you feel like you've done something special. The point is that this isn't really to be confused with an arrogant feeling. I think the confusion arises from peoples inability to express this without sounding arrogant. To do so you have to choose your words very carefully. Anyway I'm stoked now, I just got back from trying out my new 7'2" minimal and it was fun.