Surfing Waves

okay so i keep forgetting my password and having to make new usernames. Before this i was shereflectslove, and before that sweatthesalt, and before that i forget but i was something else. anyway point is you guys know of me, hopefully haha. anyway

so i dont usually get the pleasure to surf barrels, but whenever it does start barreling, at the spot i surf, its right over about a foot of water ontop of rock reef. and the last time i pulled in, i didnt make it, and i got tossed straight onto dry reef on my head, and had to get my head glued. haha. i surf this spot whenever its breaking (natural bridges, santa cruz), and whever it starts barreling right next to that shelf reef, i always want to pull in, but im always scared that if i do i wont make it out. ive had some really close calls.

point is, i was watching some guy, and he pulled intoa closout barrel right over the shallow ass part that breaks right onto dry reef, and i thought to myself "oh hes gonna eat poop", but somehow the wave collapsed on him and he popped up pretty much right where it closed out on him. he didnt get dragged over the reef at all, like i did. so i was wondering how the hell did he do this??? how did he manage to not get thrown like i did? i know you can jump off the board and try to dive under the wave in closeouts, but that can only be done in deeper water. this literally breaks almost on dry reef. and he didnt jump off his board either he held on all the way.

so how do you not eat xxxxx on closeout barrels??

if you do kind of a hard bottom turn type of thing, right into the face, you can kind of pop out the back of the wave

Yeah, I don't surf many reefs, but on a barreling beach break I get down in a crouch then kinda do a wired hard bottom something and just stand up through the barrel into an eerie glass blanket !

Sorted - but then I haven't got the rock to put me off trying it SO WEAR A HELMET IF YOU AINT A PRO GODAMMIT !!!!!!!

sometimes if the curtain is not too thick you can just pull through it. If the tube isnt powerfull you can also punch through the back. My advice is to watch the break a lot and pay attention to how it tubes and where it usually shuts down. Local knowledge pays off particualy if the break has a sketchy slab.

yah pushing out the back sounds like a good idea, ive done this before, but this wave even though not very big has some thickness so i havent tried it here yet. ill give it go though. anymore advice from anyone??

oh man today it was so fun, 5 to 6 foot clean, little barrels. and tomorrow its supposed to be even bigger and better. i was first surfing steamer lane, but it was a little crowded, but i caught like 3 nice waves head high waves. but then i saw flea, mavericks surfer, and his little posse jump in, and i didnt want to deal with any aggro bad vibes so i just left and went to another spot. and at this second spot i pulled into a nice little barrel and just rode it soooo smooth ahhh. and i was blazed so it wall so euphoric, ahhhh yahh.

anyone else got any advice closeout barrels??? keeep it coming.

fleshin' stoked right now!!! i had been out of the water for almost 3 weeks till today cuz my head was glued. and a nice swell is coming in! i love surfing! haha i sound like such a grom!!! its just awesome how the stoke always comes back, and hits you. love it.

I just had a similar experience 2 weeks ago at Teresitas, a cobblestone break at k38 in baja.

It was about 2 feet overhead and the inside connector broke on 2ft of water over a boulders and cobblestones. I would see it jack up inviting me but I knew it was shallow, so I would tuck in and then shoot my board into the wall and pop out the other side. My buddy thought I was getting shacked, so I impressed the hell out of him, but in all actuality I was just running scared from being tossed onto the rocks.
Fun stuff, I did grab the rail and tuck in once and paid for it, got bounced on my ass, literaly, against a boulder, but no head stitches.

I agree with Twerked, I usually do a hard bottom turn and punch through the back, if it's not heavy, by doing a squat stand up .