Surfing Waves

Why do you surf?...
I guess I am curious to see other points of view.

I surf to forget, I surf to remember (sometimes), I surf because no matter kind of chaotic event in my life is happening I can always relax and clear my mind when I am out in the water. I surf for days when the sun is shining and waves are barreling. I surf because not everyone can! I surf because getting barreled is one of the best feelings in the world.
Why do you surf?

Are you writing a poem or something?

KS

Maybe, I just really like surfing.

Ok, in that case i surf because i like to surf.

KS

kitesurfer wrote:Ok, in that case i surf because i like to surf.

KS

smae there is no other resson i can think of

It may sound strange, but at times I have genuinly found my self thinking "why DO you like surfing so much"

I mean, im not that good and i often use £10 worth of petrol and a days lost earnings to find that its flat, but still....

i am just drawn to it

i think when you surf, you develop the idea of your perfect wave, you may never get it...but you might

thats what keeps me coming back.

i have no interest in rippin it up, i just want a sunny warm day where waves are coming in sets of three with nice long gaos to paddle out in between, i get out and ready just as a wave comes up behind me, i start paddling and it oppicks me up nice and early, i stand, trum my turn and im off along the face of a long wave miving gracefully on my longboard up and down the wave for ages, then finally as the wave closes out i pull out and over the lip and lay back down for the next.

i think the point i am trying to make is, despite being no sporty type, i have a dream that is a dream, but is also achievable and possible.

thats the draw for me

i surf cause i love it simple as that

Because I'm a surfer.

because its the most enjoyable thing ever.

it's fun, keep me fit, and gives me something to do other than sitting around doing nothing

I like to dress up in rubber

I don't really 'surf' as such, I just turn up at overcrowded town beaches with the most expensive gear and parade around. I've got all the best surf gear - Oakley Shades, £2000 board with no dings (or wax) on it, rip curl hoodie. I walk around in my oversized board shorts with my merrell flip flops and some zinc sunblok. I get the 'surf hair' look, straight out of the salon and say things like 'Dude, this is totally friggin' awesome' and 'Wow, yesterday it was like double overhead man'. Nobody has ever actually seen me in the water.

I find it a great way to pic up chicks on holiday from somewhere that is miles from a beach.

cos theres nothing else like it ;D

sinistapenguin wrote:I don't really 'surf' as such, I just turn up at overcrowded town beaches with the most expensive gear and parade around. I've got all the best surf gear - Oakley Shades, £2000 board with no dings (or wax) on it, rip curl hoodie. I walk around in my oversized board shorts with my merrell flip flops and some zinc sunblok. I get the 'surf hair' look, straight out of the salon and say things like 'Dude, this is totally friggin' awesome' and 'Wow, yesterday it was like double overhead man'. Nobody has ever actually seen me in the water.

I find it a great way to pic up chicks on holiday from somewhere that is miles from a beach.

i noticed the dude-brahs at school that looked/acted kind of like that (minus carrying around boards/showing up at a beach, it was in pittsburgh after all) always got chicks. and me, an actual surfer, never did. wtf?

i surf because i love it. there are just so many small things that add up to why i surf. i literally slipped into depression the beginning of the summer when i was living in pittsburgh, before i moved back to the beach..that was no fun

because i like to, it's relaxing, and it's good exercise.

Just love it. I will never forget that first proper drop on the green when all went quiet and the weightlessness made me feel like I was floating heavenward.

Plus I also have met some really great people through it as well (yes you 'orrible lot).

...Because I moved 17,000km to be near a decent break. It'd be embarassing not to.

- I love being at the beach and all parts of the beach and ocean that go with it

- I love the thrill and challenges of surfing as a hobby and something to try to improve upon

- its great exercise for staying in shape

- I have some friends/family who surf, so there is peer influence and the comradery enjoyment aspects to it

- Surfing is an excuse to take off work and play hooky now and then (add some extra spice to an ordinary life)

- Although sort of a lame reason and teased about frequently on the board (well deserved) I do get some sense of pride/ego boost when I get to talk about surfing to friends and family. I feel slightly "cooler" than my normal geeky self if I were still just into golf as a hobby (which is very enjoyable but has zero "coolness factor" to it).

- My children love the beach and surfing has further justified alot of very nice day-trips with the family in tow.

the voices tell me to.

i want to look cool. i also like seeing guys in wetsuits.