Surfing Waves

hey, any of you ever want to be a big wave surfer. Ever since i got my first double overhead, i thought about how cool it would be to do that. Kinda like a kid who dreams of being a rock star.

not realy i mean if i ever got good enough then yeah i would try and surf them but its not like a goal ill make to be a big wave surfer

btter b real sure once u paddle in no more jokes mdl

ya i know... but that is something i really want to try. have you ever been?

I've been double overhead on several occasions but to be absolutely honest I crapped myself every time. (not literally) to the extent that it stopped being fun!

I'd love to be more macho about it but quite honestly, give me a five foot perfect face, nice sets, a sunny day, just me, my wife and my mates and my trusty 9'2" Fireball and I'm in heaven!!

Maybe I'm getting old - I went to proms in the park on saturday night! It'll be pipe and slippers and a mug of Horlicks next...............

when u start flying down the line faster than u ever have before it rocks your world. changes u for life ,but u know your playing with a bomb hence the name for waves that big.just in the drop alone on a more than double over wave leaves u fealing totaly disconnected from your board .u catch up by the bottom if u don't freak then your knees feel like buckeling.by then if ya don't make any stupid moves to throw u in the bottom of the pit you gotta fire back up the wall before the lip puts u in close contact with the reef so the only way out then is to outrun the wall
before it closes down or leaves you in impact zone .cuz u don't wanna get stuck in impact zone with nothing to do but pray the waves don't come down on your freakin head while u wait for a way out.rock stars are pussies big wave riders are for real they train hard and take the greatest risks the ocean is throwing at them .ther are not many second chances for all out failure mentaly u have to be ready not just excited.your frends and family will have a real hard time forgiving u even if the know u went down doing somthing u loved.



what is power ?power itself in a man
what is sadness ?all that proceeds from weakness.
what is happiness ?the fealing that power increases that a resistance is overcome.[neiche]

hold onto gods hand and beleve you have a purpose

i know.... it sounds awsome and thats not some arrogant kid saying it. I know too dang well it could easily kill be but id be happy going down doing something i loved soo much. Only now i need to get to big waves ^^

It sounds like you have riden some....?

I know how you are I took alot of chances in my youth I guess I still do.
just don't go too fast. time is on your side wave judgement takes alot of time especaly in big surf.so keep surfing and progress at a good rate don't
try to just spike an paddel out in huge waves cuz there there.every time u paddle out watch the break for a while before hand and if you want to surf the waves when there bigger try watching for many days in many diffrent swell conditions.be a geek about it do your homwork live for it.to realy surf waves with juice you have to surf alot not just when its big
and you should surf juice in incriments so that yor constantly progressing.be confident but know fear be scared this seems like a foolish statement but accepting and mastering your fear is what makes you stronger don't dissmiss it cuz then your just lieing to yourself.and that is the only person you can truely depend on out there.if you skew your judgement you wont have anything to rely on the just arrogence and that wont last long.look for longevity in your actions some of the best waves are the ones your having the most fun on not just terrified and trust if ya go big there will be a time when your courage escapes you ,and you have to succced reguardless .liv long liv well and die well don't take it for granted if its in you then it will fit with commitment don't force it.

ya. i guess i can wait :) ... but the main problem is im on the atlantic coast and we rarly get over 12 feet... but i loooovvve it when its that big. So as soon as i get the chance im moving to the pacific.... your in WA.... where do you surf big waves?

I have surfed on both coasts from RI to florida and from Wa to mex
Wa has decint waves but you have to travel I've lived all over the country
I never know how long I will stay somwhere but surfing is always at the forfront of my mind so I keep going.

Most of the time, going the big stuff, is all in the head. Confidence with your ability, fitness, equipement and knowledge of the break play an equal part to the "go for it no matter what happens" attitude. This frame of mind, I've found, just can't be switched on, I've had to learn it. For me the key was wipe-outs. Getting smashed heavily and popping up and saying to myself"ok ican survive that,lets see what else ya got", freed me up to push it. In saying all this I still have a healthy respect for the ocean and know my limitations. Its like picking a fight, there is always a bigger guy out there to put us in our place.

Guys its weird how its gone full circle with surfboards . Not a surfer just like hearing about them . First ever board was a big thick heavy wooden plank used by a certian tribe in Hawai . Then The designs seem to get smaller and smaller for mor turning . but people surfing huge waves need more weight to the board so it doesn,t fly out .

Just thought Id add that :) :) :) :) :)

big waves are fun. biggest i rode was like 12 foot hurricane swell. sooo fun. at first i was kinda scared but then i just went for it. had a blast.