Surfing Waves

what does swell height and period translate into? this weekend my break is supposed to be 5ft at 8 seconds
what can i expect?

Every break works under different conditions and to different degrees. Generally swell/wind data can be directly applied to everywhere after that its a case of knowing how said data will manifest at each spot...

So... tell us where "my break" is and we can potentially help you a bit.

uh...just a regular beach break in jersey with a pretty shallow sand bar nothing special

depends on the swell direction etc. where are you getting the readings from? magicseaweed isn't normally too accurate with period or size so can create a bit of a problem. i found in the uk it normally under rates the east coast surf and whenever its not forcast to be good on seaweed its empty everywhere which is great for me

yea im getting it from magicseaweed
what i really want to know though is how does height and period relate to each other?

that realy depends on the break that you're surfing compared to the swell height, direction and size.

the swell period is important. the bigger the period the bigger and more powerful the waves will be. the bigger the swell then the bigger the waves. basically, its possible to get bigger waves, say like you could get 4ft waves out of a 2ft swell if the wave period is big.

3rdaverules0605 wrote:uh...just a regular beach break in jersey with a pretty shallow sand bar nothing special

yeeesss.... but which one... There are quite a few in NJ and the proximity to the system that produces the swell changes with each one.

oh i didnt know that you were familiar with new jersey
i surf 2nd and 3rd ave in ortley beach
its a couple blocks up from the casino pier (its got a cam on surfline if you dont know what im talking about) lol

I'm not familiar par say having not physically been there but like i said knowledge of how swells and conditions manifest/travel etc is applicable to everywhere...

Judging by current swell and wind forcasts your in for a wave and it'll be cleanish. Chances re tht it could be blown flat s its a short period wave and the offshore winds on Sat and Sunday are quite strong...
Calling it from the current data (12th nov) (which will change.. it always does ) I'd sy hit it up Sat afternoon. You'll get the bulk of the inshore swell pulse and benefit from more favourable winds. Sunday looks like it'll ll be gone because of the strong offshores and week system.
So I'd say peeks of should high max but prob average out as waist. on the sat avo.

thanks man i hope it stays the same! ive been watching the reports for the past week and its only changed slightly, but im really dying to get out. i live about 45 minutes away from the spot and gas prices SUCK!!! and im low on cash so i dont wanna blow my bank if its completely flat or blown out.

but i would be happy with a decent 3 ft day anything else is a plus

PapaW wrote:I'm not familiar par say having not physically been there but like i said knowledge of how swells and conditions manifest/travel etc is applicable to everywhere...

Judging by current swell and wind forcasts your in for a wave and it'll be cleanish. Chances re tht it could be blown flat s its a short period wave and the offshore winds on Sat and Sunday are quite strong...
Calling it from the current data (12th nov) (which will change.. it always does ) I'd sy hit it up Sat afternoon. You'll get the bulk of the inshore swell pulse and benefit from more favourable winds. Sunday looks like it'll ll be gone because of the strong offshores and week system.
So I'd say peeks of should high max but prob average out as waist. on the sat avo.

Hey man, how did you figure all that out? I want to become an expert swell forecaster for the breaks near me as well. Any free online guides or sites for beginners?

Beachbum wrote:Hey man, how did you figure all that out? I want to become an expert swell forecaster for the breaks near me as well. Any free online guides or sites for beginners?

Comes with time and experience as anything but the core basics are pretty simple to get you started... Even the quick guide on the MSW site is a good start. Just google How to... quite few sites out there with blurb. All the storm rider guides have a bit of background info on how waves are formed/travel/affected etc..

Sillysausage wrote:depends on the swell direction etc. where are you getting the readings from? magicseaweed isn't normally too accurate with period or size so can create a bit of a problem. i found in the uk it normally under rates the east coast surf and whenever its not forcast to be good on seaweed its empty everywhere which is great for me

All reight mate how you getting on up there?

Get in today? 3ft super clean in Yorks today should be same tomorrow maybe a tad smaller be in for a bit of high tide Cayton till dark for me (finish work lunchtimes on fridays )

Alright northswell. it was good last week but this week has been shiteeee. maybe 1 foot on the biggest ones but didn't have time to get in today anyway. i finish at 10 tomorrow morning so will be in for a wicked session if there are any waves.

i'm trying to get to yorkshire before christmas if possible, probably for a weekend session if we get some good swell so will let you know if i'm coming down.