Surfing Waves

Do you guys get that nice feeling when you do a nice front side bottom turn while the lip above is trying to smash you. Seems like I have gotten better at it, and I can actually sweep down with my hand in the water. Just gotta practice hitting the lip on the way up though .

Ha ha i'd get a nice feeling if i could turn the friggin board!!!!

Man the other day I had these 2 waves it felt so good, like 4 bottoms turn then hit the lip. My bro was on the shore watching. so I asked him hey ya see those waves? His reply, er ah hmm Oh ah you or the wave? well ah....

I shouldn't have asked.

I get that nice feeling when I gently work a board, generatring loads of speed on a smooth face, the lip just being outrun - but all chilled and mellow, love it.

Nothing better than digging in to a big frontside bottom turn.......except maybe if that turns into a tube
or maybe a big gouging cutback after out running that racy tube section.
or maybe a fat floater on that big closeout...
or maybe just the double over head drop, with your balls in your gut.


shoot I love that feeling no matter what!! Even like a good hold down...lets you know you are mortal!

Keep the stoke!!