Surfing Waves

I'm gonna burn in surfer hell.

Went to look for surf at 4:30 today. Went to South Mission Jetty, there where waves, crappy waves, but there where waves, and I did not go in! First offence. Then I drove to Ocean Beach, avalanche, small jetty and pier all had crappy waves, but there where waves, and I did not go in, sin #2. Then I drove to Sunset Cliffs and found birdshit working about waist high but super mushy, did not look that much fun, so I did not go in.

I sinned, I broke the 1st commandment of surfing "thou shalt surf all waves"

I'm gonna burn in surfer hell. Watch, I'll break off a fin or something next time I go surfing.

Are you in SF. Sometimes tha hardest part of the surf is struggling into the wetsuit. Taking it off can be a bit tedious when your tired.

Nah! Dont believe in Hell! But you should have gone in. I went in at St Agnes in Cornwall on a 8-10 foot overhead mushy, stormy, white water everywhere day with my 10 foot longboard (!!!) and got seriously mashed! Scary but still fun. Kind of. I got out after 10 minutes. Taught me my limits, thats for sure. You should go in as you never stop learning even in crap waves, but not if its dangerous, or above your skill level. But then I was an idiot! At least you will be really rearing to go next time, thinking how you missed out last time!! (Works for me!)

Nope... Math T your goining to HELLLLLL!!!!!!

No man,,, that means your learning, while yes you can surf in the worst conditions period ie. no friggin waves but go get your paddle on anyways. You'll opt to pick n chose good/bad surf and when it's bad "think it's not worth the shower off" and just not go out. Wise choice,,, it's not allways worth it. But your still goin to HELL !!! MUH AH HA HA HA HA !!! ..... See ya there.

themathteacher wrote:I'm gonna burn in surfer hell.

Went to look for surf at 4:30 today. Went to South Mission Jetty, there where waves, crappy waves, but there where waves, and I did not go in! First offence. Then I drove to Ocean Beach, avalanche, small jetty and pier all had crappy waves, but there where waves, and I did not go in, sin #2. Then I drove to Sunset Cliffs and found birdshit working about waist high but super mushy, did not look that much fun, so I did not go in.

I sinned, I broke the 1st commandment of surfing "thou shalt surf all waves"

I'm gonna burn in surfer hell. Watch, I'll break off a fin or something next time I go surfing.

^^^^ Ya dont snub the waves

Mind you OB and mission look like shite at the moment had a fun session yesterday but looks bombeb this morning. Suprised the cliffs have anything particually birdshit. Maybe you should have tried abs or new break they can sometimes get a bit of the SW as they jut out out a bit more. Looking out my door at ob doesnt really inspire me at the moment so i guess i gonna commit a sin as well - see you in hell

isaluteyou wrote:
^^^^ Ya dont snub the waves

Mind you OB and mission look like shite at the moment had a fun session yesterday but looks bombeb this morning. Suprised the cliffs have anything particually birdshit. Maybe you should have tried abs or new break they can sometimes get a bit of the SW as they jut out out a bit more. Looking out my door at ob doesnt really inspire me at the moment so i guess i gonna commit a sin as well - see you in hell

I think part of it was that I scored all week and just got bummed. On Wednesday I did Imperial Beach in the morning about head+ high and barreling, then did South Garbage with my fish (dinged the shortboard in the morning, had the fish as a backup at work) about shoulder/head high with long mushy bowling waves. Did IB Tuesday and Monday afternoon about shoulder high.

So, I go out and find only waist high slop and did not bring the fish, so not only was it crappy out but I had the wrong board for crapy surf. Serves me right for not packing the right board...

Anyway, gonna do 10 Hail Mary's and do dawn patrol at IB, 5ft south swell, kind of steep 200degree but, if it hits it's going to go off!!!

should have checked out new break waves were soft and lulls were long but the sets were clean. Anyway blacks today and maybe somewhere later in afternoon

Well, I paid for it in pain. There is a 5ft South swell at 195 and Ib was catching it, big and walled and tubing and really shallow, totally fun. Got shacked 4 times but did not make it out once, I guess my payback was that I did not make it out of a single tube this time, just got hammered!

Saw a couple of great tube rides, too bad it wasn't mine, but can't complain, still had a blast, just got worked.

isaluteyou wrote:should have checked out new break waves were soft and lulls were long but the sets were clean. Anyway blacks today and maybe somewhere later in afternoon

Go to IB!

Hey, I've surfed osprey, birdshit, needles, luscombs, rockpile, north and south garbage but never abs or newbreak, just never hicked that far. Let me know if you want to show me one the way down, would totally dig it.
Email me at mr_govea@yahoo.com if you plan an after work go-out.

themathteacher wrote:

isaluteyou wrote:should have checked out new break waves were soft and lulls were long but the sets were clean. Anyway blacks today and maybe somewhere later in afternoon

Go to IB!

Hey, I've surfed osprey, birdshit, needles, luscombs, rockpile, north and south garbage but never abs or newbreak, just never hicked that far. Let me know if you want to show me one the way down, would totally dig it.
Email me at mr_govea@yahoo.com if you plan an after work go-out.

Dude you been missing out Garbage is a great big wave/longboard break but adbs kills it and new break at low tide is amazing - theres a spot past that i will not mention that gets tubes at low tide and is one of the best waves to surf if you catch it at the right tide and swell. Well worth the hike and compared to abs/garbage fairly light on crowds

I'll send you a pm

Nope, there's a special place in surfer heaven for surfing math teachers, or at least that's the way I like to think of it.. I am one (when I get out there, which is rare these days, 2nd year teaching, 1st year at this school) and I also know of a few other math teachers who surf.

No your thinking of English teachers and heaven,,,,,, Hell has a special place for math teachers..... To kids it's called school.....ha ha ha ..
What was I thinking working for the school district !!!

themathteacher has been my user name almost everywhere, I'm actually a viceprincipal now. So maybe I will burn in hell...

Anyway, I think I already paid the price, went surfing at IB and got totally worked over, never made it out of a single tube. Then this morning I woke up with a cold. Guess I'm already paying for my sins.

dude, whatever. i live in hawaii and there is always surf, and believe me, nobody surf every day. i see guys on the north shore sit on the beach and fool around all the time when its big and blown out.

"thou shaklt surf all waves"?????

and drown? actually i think this is the opposite of what any experienced surfer actually believes. sometimes i stare at the ocean for 30 minutes before i can decide weather its safe enough or worth it or not.

I forgive ya !!!

I sinned today. I went to Bournemouth thinking even if there arent waves i'll just go paddle to the end of the peir and back a few times to start getting back into shape. There werent waves and I couldnt be bothered to get into me wetsuit. Iv not surfed for six months now except once a few weeks ago on a longboard whilst my other board was getting mended. I really need to get into the water more.

to an extent go in and get wet.

i made the mistake of going in on the messiest day around 10ft, and got pulled by a rip about 300m ofshore. took me anbout an hour to paddle the xxxxx in as itwas so rough.

however atleast i got a work out

Surfer Hell... so thats a little better than normal hell right?

Unless of course you're strapped to a chair watching surfing DVD's with a perfect window view of the perfect swell with a quiver of all your perfect boards next to you.

...and of course you're strapped to your chair forever