by Duncs » Fri Nov 28, 2003 11:36 am
Hey guys,
I recently went with a mate to Croyde for a weeks surfing. Which for some of you guys is a very easy thing to do, I however, am from a town called Horsham, which is near Gatwick and so therefore it is rather more difficult...
Now i am very envious of all the peeps out there who by pure chance happen to be born in a place where surfing is easy to reach. While i am fully aware that being in Horsham gives me opportunities that you probably don't have, i.e. for me getting to gigs in London, Brighton and Tunbridge Wells is very easy, i am still very jealous...
The impression i get is that surfing is not just an activity, but is really a lifestyle. Now i have only been surfing for a week, and before that for a week's bodyboarding in S.A, but i would say that i am a fan. Proabably would be hooked if i had the opportunity to do it more often...
Being 18 just about now gives me the freedom to do what i want. I am starting with organising a winter sun trip to the Canaries this FEB to surf. Hopefully i can improve my standard of surfing. By the end of the week in croyde i managed to catch a green wave,..and to turn a bit. I was pretty stoked with that...
So is surfing a lifestyle that welcomes new people?!
One look at it shows me that there are those surfers out there who look at newbies and laugh,..make us feel small,...cos we just can't cut it. I mean we aren't "real" surfers,...we don't know all the lingo,..."we are land goers".
Hey but from the other view,..we are making the effort to come to Croyde ( a long-ish journey) and stand up proud that we are using foam boards...and are fully adamant that we are learners. However there is still the fundamental instinct inside us that we are born to play in the sea,..and be a bit free from your office jobs. We could of course remain like our fellow "townies",..who live in burbury,..listen to trance nation,...go raving and generally hang on street corners.
All im saying is that we aren't great surfers,...we can't cut the mustard in the sea yet, but there is the same love of the ocean,...and the same perspective on life,....that sets us apart from the townies of this world.... we will eventually also be the next sunny garcia's
After all we have made the effort and have the dedication to get of our asses and go out there and do it.
So we really oughta,..in a show of good old hippy love,...respect each other,..no matter what level of surfer. After all we are all in it for the same things,...the healthy lifestyle,...and whether its a big wave in Taihiti or a 3 ft-er in croyde we all get that same rush (y'know what i mean?!)
My skills lie elsewhere. I can play guitar,..in a band,....and thats cool. We are progressing well, but at the same time im happy to see other young musicians in my area picking up instruments,..no matter whether they can't palm mute,..play harmonics,...or dont have Marshall stacks and a great guitar..... Im just happy to see people turning to ( in true lord of the rings style) the "light" side,..rather than the "dark" side of garage music and stuff,..which requires no talent what-so-ever. Im sure the people who are into it would disagree but hey...
Although thats off the point,..i hope you can see the similarities in the way of thinking.
Now i really started to write this with a point,...but i can't remember it now. Im basically just trying to occupy my working day somehow. Lol,...to conclude i would say:
"surfing rocks,...and whether you like it or not,...every new surfer is one less burberry cap at 45 degrees,..one less tracksuit bottom tucked into a sock,...one less white adidas shell suit,..one less set of gold rings and earings, one less trance nation album bought (go jack johnson),...one less innit vehicle done up with neon lights and a "pumpin" sound system playing **** music.....the list goes on..."