Surfing Waves

Oh boy. With the Gustav Hurricane we might get 8ft + swell sunday to tuesday. Most I've surfed is 4ft waves with my 7'6". I am thinking on getting a shortboard to start learning on bigger swell with a shortboard. Not sure if I could make it through lol. I mean, physically I've been getting prepared for constant surfing and whatnot, but... I am thinking on risking my butt onto that swell. After all it's just a beach break, the other thing are the rip currents, but... you know, with calm you can get out of them.

If your going to go, go after the swell peaks because you don't want to find yourself stuck outside with waves that are too big for you.

I will NOT be going out in any 8 foot swell. I'll wait till it goes down a bit and then enjoy the ultra-rare groundswell here in the Panhandle. That does not, of course, mean I won't be going to the beach to watch the surfers that are better than I am.

Sykes wrote:I will NOT be going out in any 8 foot swell. I'll wait till it goes down a bit and then enjoy the ultra-rare groundswell here in the Panhandle. That does not, of course, mean I won't be going to the beach to watch the surfers that are better than I am.

Well, I am definitely going. Either to watch other surfers, or try to surf.

I'll tell the coastgaurds to get the helicopter warmed up...

drowningbitbybit wrote:I'll tell the coastgaurds to get the helicopter warmed up...

Lol, that's what one of the local surfers that has a surf forecast website pretty much said. But hey! Why do I have to do what everyone says... I might be able to pull it out of my @$$... I'll really see how big it is when I go and think, if I do get in, it's been a pleasure knowing you all.

7ft or bigger i usually don't paddle out. its my limit on skill level, and i don't have those gorilla arm to duck dive through those multiple sets.

if you've been on the mini mal all the time it is advisable to wait until the swell dies down to 5 feet or maybe 6 feet if you have the balls.

pkbum wrote:7ft or bigger i usually don't paddle out. its my limit on skill level, and i don't have those gorilla arm to duck dive through those multiple sets.

if you've been on the mini mal all the time it is advisable to wait until the swell dies down to 5 feet or maybe 6 feet if you have the balls.

Actually the swell should be 5ft - 6ft now. This is by Monday/Tuesday. Shall the conditions change it could go up or down, or get choppy waves (lets hope not). I'll be checking out those waves before getting in, lets hope they are nice, clean and not THAT big. I'll be trying out my first shortboard hopefully!

I just got back from the beach in Pensacola, and it's flat as a millpond. Waves are supposed to start building here Sunday. We'll see if there is anything surfable tomorrow. Definately going out sunday though. Peak is supposed to be Monday.

taking a board out in big waves that you are not familiar with is a recipe for disaster.

Wish we had solid 8ft waves here id be in my element

isaluteyou wrote:taking a board out in big waves that you are not familiar with is a recipe for disaster.

Wish we had solid 8ft waves here id be in my element

Will be buying it tomorrow, should have 1ft to 4ft available this sunday. Will start with that. Monday/Tuesday should go 6ft+. Don't worry, I'm not THAT crazy!

LucasG wrote:

isaluteyou wrote:taking a board out in big waves that you are not familiar with is a recipe for disaster.

Wish we had solid 8ft waves here id be in my element

Will be buying it tomorrow, should have 1ft to 4ft available this sunday. Will start with that. Monday/Tuesday should go 6ft+. Don't worry, I'm not THAT crazy!

i learnt that lesson the hard way

isaluteyou wrote:

LucasG wrote:

isaluteyou wrote:taking a board out in big waves that you are not familiar with is a recipe for disaster.

Wish we had solid 8ft waves here id be in my element

Will be buying it tomorrow, should have 1ft to 4ft available this sunday. Will start with that. Monday/Tuesday should go 6ft+. Don't worry, I'm not THAT crazy!

i learnt that lesson the hard way

Well, in other things, you are not the only one... i've had to learn many other things the real hard way =x

Ever paddled straight at a 8 foot wave that was about to crash ontop of you. Make sure to go out with some buddies if you do.

i agree going from 4 ft. to 8ft. is a huge difference, especially if it's a ground swell. If it says 8ft. at 10 secs or longer then it's going to be bigger than 8 ft. more than likely. and since you will only have a day to get adjusted to the board that will not help either. If you do go out, definately go with some buddies........and I hope you can hold your breath.

It says its suppose to be Good to epic conditions, What are epic conditions? Also since pensacola is all beach breaks its going to be rather hard even getting out in anything bigger that 5 ft!! Also there is going to be a ground swell, whats the difference between the 2 swells?

Are we talking about 8ft from the back? If so, your crazy to ride a 16ft face with a fairly new board.

only one way to find out....good luck!

Ok... little update:

"15-17 second forerunner swells of 6-10' will show by daybreak or earlier Monday, then build rapidly through the day to 15' and likely much bigger sets beyond the jetty. This will be a Katrina size swell with very good conditions, but very dangerous." Quote from Spadre.com

I am not going into the big swell, that is FOR SURE. I'll try to get the early 6' and get out when they get bigger and then get the low 6' again and what not. And of course, just sit out there and take a look at those who know surf those giants.

just so you know a 6 ft. swell at 15 to 17 seconds is likely to be about a 8-10 ft.+ size wave, not 6 ft. and if it's building rapidly keep an eye on the size because you don't want to get caught inside with a 15 ft+ plus wave breaking on your head. good luck, hope it's not as big as they say it will be